Bought a new MR2

Capt_Ed

Crew Member
Got it from a forum member and I couldn't be happier. After using M1's at the lodge for 10 years ( and don't get me wrong they work great) it was a pleasure to feel the smothness and sensitive drag of the Islander. Was going to go for the MR3 as I like to fish left handed but I like the free spool of the MR2 as I do alot of drop mooching and the MR3 doesn't have that feature with out backing off the drag. I like the drag knob on the MR3 better also . I wish Island would put a free spool lever on the 3 but I asked them when I was running the lodge and it was like talking to the wall. Not the cheapest reel out there but well worth the money in my opinion.
 
If your ever in the market for another reel check out the trophy. Especially the newest version. Paddle handles, free spool, decent drag knob (not as good as MR3).

I use free spool a lot too and that means I usually pick up the trophy over the MR3. Trophy is less expensive too.
 
If your ever in the market for another reel check out the trophy. Especially the newest version. Paddle handles, free spool, decent drag knob (not as good as MR3).

I use free spool a lot too and that means I usually pick up the trophy over the MR3. Trophy is less expensive too.

A couple of the deckhands at the lodge had trophies xl and while they seemed better than M1's they're no Islander. They oly lasted 2 seasons and the drags were toast but they were well used with all the fish up there.
 
OK, noob question here...but why the free spoon? Every time I have used it on past reels it causes birds nests and all manner of mishaps...how is it supposed to be used?
 
I use to to make a controlled drop with a 6oz round weight and a whole herring then a intermitten retreive back to the top. May sound haywire but believe me it works , especially around or thru bait balls. When the fish hits on the way down click the switch back on then feed him line , DO NOT try to jerk set the fish till he's running .
 
I use to to make a controlled drop with a 6oz round weight and a whole herring then a intermitten retreive back to the top. May sound haywire but believe me it works , especially around or thru bait balls. When the fish hits on the way down click the switch back on then feed him line , DO NOT try to jerk set the fish till he's running .

Would love to see how you set up the ball and herring rig. Tandem hooks?
 
OK, noob question here...but why the free spoon? Every time I have used it on past reels it causes birds nests and all manner of mishaps...how is it supposed to be used?

Use it all the time to let out line very fast when setting the back length to the release clip to save time getting gear down. This is particularly useful if you are trying to get it down fast to avoid a little surface weed or get back on a bite. To avoid the bird nests just keep a little palm, thumb or finger pressure on the spool, it just takes a little practice. I pull the rod forward as I do it and it takes a second or two to put out 15 or 20 feet. Way faster than pulling out a couple of feet at a time off the drag or letting it run out on low drag. Can’t remember the last time I had a birds nest line tangle from doing it and done it too many times to count.
 
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I do that all the time on my reels when I'm jigging.

Set the drag to where I want it first.

Then let it free spool and drop the jig.

Keeping thumb on the spool a little so it doesn't birdnest when dropping.

Sometimes fish hit on the way down....so gotta be quick at putting the free-spool lever back in place.


I also do this when I'm lowering tackle off the downrigger.....

I know some guys like to set the drag lightly and then lower the downrigger with the reel paying out line by itself.

I just have one hand on the downrigger lever and the thumb on the other hand on the reel with the freespool on.....

When it gets down there I flip the switch and drag is engaged.
 
Thanks, I figured it was like that, but just have always dialled the drag back and done it that way...moot point as my amundson's don't have a free spool option. Never actually used my mooching rods for mooching either...always of the downrigger.
 
I just don't understand why someone can't build a killer reel. Large rubber paddle, large arbor, free spool, quality drag and a usable drag knob for a reasonable price. Do the designers ever listen to the fishermen? Or ask their opinion. I just don't get it.
 
I just don't understand why someone can't build a killer reel. Large rubber paddle, large arbor, free spool, quality drag and a usable drag knob for a reasonable price. Do the designers ever listen to the fishermen? Or ask their opinion. I just don't get it.
I've always wondered the same thing. I would like a Shimano in billet aluminum with an Islander ported design. I just don't understand why you have to buy a $250-$600 reel and than have to do mods to it. Like change the knobs or the springs or whatever.
 
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I just don't understand why someone can't build a killer reel. Large rubber paddle, large arbor, free spool, quality drag and a usable drag knob for a reasonable price. Do the designers ever listen to the fishermen? Or ask their opinion. I just don't get it.

I'm pretty sure they can produce what you described FA, but I'm also sure that as long as they keep turning a profit annually they won't make any significant changes. Perhaps a letter to the company describing what you are looking for could help?
 
There are a number of companies knocking off Islander's, problem is that most of them want almost as much.
those new Coast reels are $600
I know most guys love their Islanders, but in my mind $600 is too much for 3lbs of machined aluminum
 
Used Mr3 like new is about $400 and like I said earlier check out the newest trophy! I haven't used one yet but they looked good in the case. No reel is perfect for everyone though.

Best reel for the $ is still the plastic shimano but we are fishermen we love tossing big $ at the fish. The more you spend the more you catch - at least that's what the tackle shop told me!
 
There are a number of companies knocking off Islander's, problem is that most of them want almost as much.
those new Coast reels are $600
I know most guys love their Islanders, but in my mind $600 is too much for 3lbs of machined aluminum
Have to agree. All these high end reels that are not prefect, reels that you have to baby. Then there is the Shimano reels that are cheap and treat them like **** and they still perform great and never need fixing. I have a couple reels that have to be close to 20 years old that are still great. I know guys that just beat the crap out of them, never wash, grease them, or do any thing to them and they still work great.
 
$350 got me 2 of these and they are well built and very smooth reels imo.

26150.jpg


PS. the Coast reels are WAY overpriced.
 
I just don't understand why someone can't build a killer reel. Large rubber paddle, large arbor, free spool, quality drag and a usable drag knob for a reasonable price. Do the designers ever listen to the fishermen? Or ask their opinion. I just don't get it.

I spoke with islander when I was running the lodge, they wouldn't even consider any changes or suggestions
 
I know most guys love their Islanders, but in my mind $600 is too much for 3lbs of machined aluminum

Typical of machining, everyone thinks it should be free. Its just holes in metal right?

The $600 Islander charges is very fair for the quality of reel you get. Its not made in Korea, or China, its made right here. Ever look into machine shop rates in BC ($85-$150)? The costs of the tooling and machines to make a reel like that ($150,000-$300,000)? The labor of a skilled machinest ($30+/hour)???

Consider the smaller the part, the smaller the tooling (cutters ect) the smaller the size of cut that can be made, the longer the job takes.
 
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