What causes a cone clutch to glaze prematurely?

I would say the answer to your original question @Raincity, is probly more then one factor. It's possible that the mating surfaces where the cone sits into the gear were never lapped in properly from the factory. Im not sure how they sell that assembly or parts for that. Question is do they sell a full gear set with a cone or can you buy them separately. Not sure how Volvo could machine each part separate and expect them to be lapped in. Can't do that with alot of things, so I raise the question there.

It's also possible that the shoe/actuator was shimmed too loose, to where yes it worked when new, however maybe the mating surfaces worn in and the engagement of the shoe was just on the fringe of being loose. That could cause premature engagement right there. Mix that up with a little play in a linkage or cable adjustment and that's enough to have not enough travel. The further the shift shoe goes into the cone the more movement the cone will have.

If oil gets burnt, it's pretty much useless in terms of clutch dogs, cones, housings where bearing races hold pressure, the list goes on there too. I know that not all oil is compatible with cones as well.

Anyway that's all I got in my brain
 
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I would say the answer to your original question @Raincity, is probly more then one factor. It's possible that the mating surfaces where the cone sits into the gear were never lapped in properly from the factory. Im not sure how they sell that assembly or parts for that. Question is do they sell a full gear set with a cone or can you buy them separately. Not sure how Volvo could machine each part separate and expect them to be lapped in. Can't do that with alot of things, so I raise the question there.

It's also possible that the shoe/actuator was shimmed too loose, to where yes it worked when new, however maybe the mating surfaces worn in and the engagement of the shoe was just on the fringe of being loose. That could cause premature engagement right there. Mix that up with a little play in a linkage or cable adjustment and that's enough to have not enough travel. The further the shift shoe goes into the cone the more movement the cone will have.

If oil gets burnt, it's pretty much useless in terms of cluth dogs, cones housings where bearing races hold pressure, the list goes on there too. I know that not all oil is compatible with cones as well.

Anyway that's all I got in my brain
I know for sure that when I had Don at Propulsion Sytems do my clutch with @noluck's help he lapped the brand new parts. When Inlet did it, they said it comes perfect and doesn't need it. The side that Don did was the one that eventually got replaced by insurance so then both sides were a little too smooth shifting into gear than I was comfortable with. When Don did it, it CLUNKED into gear which was a much nicer feeling. Especially after learning how this thing is supposed to function and what causes it to glaze.
 
I know for sure that when I had Don at Propulsion Sytems do my clutch with @noluck's help he lapped the brand new parts. When Inlet did it, they said it comes perfect and doesn't need it. The side that Don did was the one that eventually got replaced by insurance so then both sides were a little too smooth shifting into gear than I was comfortable with. When Don did it, it CLUNKED into gear which was a much nicer feeling. Especially after learning how this thing is supposed to function and what causes it to glaze.


If Don did it then I'm sure it was done right. Pretty rare that that guy ever makes a mistake.

If inlet said that they come perfect lol. No way. Unless they come as an assembly. Some gear sets do and you cannot buy individual parts.

It's possible, that they can still be lapped and adjusted properly

Probly user error hahaha ;)
 
If Don did it then I'm sure it was done right. Pretty rare that that guy ever makes a mistake.

If inlet said that they come perfect lol. No way. Unless they come as an assembly. Some gear sets do and you cannot buy individual parts.

It's possible, that they can still be lapped and adjusted properly

Probly user error hahaha ;)
My spare drive is all Don lol
 
Yeup, it was 100% glazed clutch. They can't tell me why. It's way too early for this to happen and it definitely wasn't user error.
 
****** deal, that is just not right.
I have glazed a cone clutch, but that was because the f'n kicker **** the bed on the first day of the west coast trip. So we trolled on the main, spend some more boat bucks and no longer troll on the main.
 
So I'm waiting to hear back from Volvo still. This is my third clutch job in the three years I've owned this boat. Back to my original question, does anyone have any idea what issue within a setup could cause this? I've heard low idle but that's it.
 
So I'm waiting to hear back from Volvo still. This is my third clutch job in the three years I've owned this boat. Back to my original question, does anyone have any idea what issue within a setup could cause this? I've heard low idle but that's it.


My synopsis is it never got lapped in and cable adjusted. And or oil type, or both.

You even said that Inlet told you they didn't need to be lapped in, and Don said they do. I said they do. Then you said the one Don did has not ****** up since he replaced it and lapped it in.
 
My synopsis is it never got lapped in and cable adjusted. And or oil type, or both.

You even said that Inlet told you they didn't need to be lapped in, and Don said they do. I said they do. Then you said the one Don did has not ****** up since he replaced it and lapped it in.
They're saying that the upper unit comes assembled. Don rebuilt my old one so I'm guessing that's why he lapped it. The one Don did only had one season on it before the lower imploded because of that log strike and the whole drive was replaced. Oil type is something I hadn't heard yet.
 
They're saying that the upper unit comes assembled. Don rebuilt my old one so I'm guessing that's why he lapped it. The one Don did only had one season on it before the lower imploded because of that log strike and the whole drive was replaced. Oil type is something I hadn't heard yet.

Rodger that. That's one thing I was wondering. Have you asked Don?

You do have to shim the cone properly and then adjust the cable after. If they come lapped then that's news to me bit Don woukd know better then me

Yep oil type is critical with cone clutches.
 
Rodger that. That's one thing I was wondering. Have you asked Don?

You do have to shim the cone properly and then adjust the cable after. If they come lapped then that's news to me bit Don woukd know better then me

Yep oil type is critical with cone clutches.
I hate bugging Don. But maybe I'll call him. If he was on this forum I'd have no problem asking for free advice ;)
 
I hate bugging Don. But maybe I'll call him. If he was on this forum I'd have no problem asking for free advice ;)

Best advise I can give is get a real mechanic. Not some fancy shop where there's a 25 dollar an hour guy putting in parts getting billed out at 160 bucks an hour.

Don's old haha. He doesn't do forums
 
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