Ever use these: solder and seal heat shrink connectors

Birdsnest

Birdsnest

Well-Known Member
Ever seen or used these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-BLUE-SOL...ideo_Connectors_Terminals&hash=item58935d0b0b

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d83XuNDnHLI

I am rethinking my electrical practices on my boat. I have always soldered then heat shrunk connections but I find that even these are subject to failure. Usually the hot/red wire will corrode even under the heat shrink so I am now considering 2 options for connecting electrical wire.

1. high quality heat shrink butt connectors where I would dab at bit of dialectical grease on the ends before inserting and be carful not to get any on the shrink portion when inserting.


Or try the heat shrink soldering product:

imgres.jpg


What do you think?

 
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I've used the shrink solder products With mixed results. I find it's hard to get the wire as hot as I'd like without ruining the tibe


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Thanks so much for that comment. Thats what I thought by watching the video.
 
I've tried them but prefer the normal connecters and soldier, then heat shrink tube. More work, but never had any problems so far. Just Redid my electrical and installed a new panel and switch did it all this way. I also found that I burnt the shrink portion of the tube.
 
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The crimps need to be crimped with the proper pliers that compress the connection rather than push a hole in the side, then shrunk to the wires. I find that I put a small amount of silicone in the ends before I heat them and have even used them in my sprinkler system underground.
 
Most of my connections are the crimp then heat shrink style. If the area is exposed I use that liquid electricians tape on top of the whole works. I'm running pretty good electrically these days. I like the crimp for holding power per say.
 
I think it depends on the manf. of the product... I used those for years on fire trucks w good results. Dont remember what brand - whatever NAPA carried those days.
 
I use crimp connectors, with the heat shrink built in, I strip the end to the correct length, dip the bare wire in dialetric grease and using the proper ratchet type crimper, crimp the connector. I use a heat gun to shrink the built in shrink tube.
 
gungadin said:
I use crimp connectors, with the heat shrink built in, I strip the end to the correct length, dip the bare wire in dialetric grease and using the proper ratchet type crimper, crimp the connector. I use a heat gun to shrink the built in shrink tube.
Click to expand...

I think I will go this way from now on. Electrical grease is your best friend at sea level. I have had great successes with it! I have actually taken three way switches and packed the inside with dialectical grease. So far no issues. This after replacing quite a few over the years. Always trying to make one go the mile.
 
Consider that to use solder and heat shrink connections (solder sleeves). The heat used to make the solder flow is also directed at the wire insulation. Your standard automotive wire insulation cannot take that amount of direct heat without melting. These connections work amazing and seal 100% when done correctly with the correct wire/insulation combo.
 
Solder when done correctly is by far the best connection electrically and mechanically. That being said many have mentioned the issues with the wire insulation itself taking the hit to make the connection. I tend to use the crimp on style connectors with the right crimping tool. A little dielectric grease is an excellent idea then a good high quality heat shrink preferably the kind that has the glue/sealant in them. This style when heated with a proper heat gun will seal well and protect for years. It is key to use a proper heat gun and not a open flame not even a lighter....lol Not that anyone has put them on with a lighter before? lol Also if you are replacing any of the wiring try to find the wire with the highest number of strands which will hold up far better to the vibration and banging on a boat. Motor lead wire is great if you can get your hands on it.
 
I have used them they a lot when they came in about 5-6 years ago in several different products. At the time it was engineering nightmare while converting to lead free when I was working in R and D the high tech electronics industry. They were brought in as an alternative as we were told that all lead had to be out of all electronics. I thought it was an easy design fix.

We did marine environmental tests with them (salt fog,vibration). They are extremely good where vibration is a concern... I replaced them on a manufacturing line when we all had to convert to lead free solder these were an alternative...

So what I can tell you I put them on line. We had a 1000 connections go through a day so I went from 98% pass rate to a 50% pass rate when we did final acceptance testing on the line.... The only way I could get it too work with these is to individuality train each operator,...

To qualify I did a standard manufacturing process engineering test with six operators three of them three days one set up with led free solder process one with these same connectors and tools..The results were very close and it really was shocking we took our top leaded soldering operators, and they struggled to get the lead free solder under control. But each one no matter how good it took 4 -5 days to train where they could hit about 98%. It didn't matter whether it was soldering are these.... So we ending picking these.

My advice connectors are good but get the right tools do a continuity test. I would actually just buy say 10-15 of them and practice first... Crimp them buy right tools. If in Victoria go see Wayne at Queale electronics he knows these things. Test each practice with heat gun..Then do the boat.

So back to the post. What that means is you can use any process you want you have to have the right tools, and be able to do the process. Proper soldering is a craft, and the majority of guys don't heat shrink they just solder with a cold joint and put on electrical tape. Cold solder joints suck and you don't want to risk if that happens...

Just passing this on just what I have found... BTW I have some of these on my boat.
 
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Quality rosin core electrical solder and dual wall heat shrink, the stuff with adhesive lining the inside, and a proper heat gun. Never had an issue.
 
Another quick note, I assume you are using Tinned wire? If not, I would highly recommend it as it's corrosion resistance is far superior.


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I agree with SpringVelocity, the emphasis has to be on the how the connection is done not what the connection is.............

Not sure on all the rules exactly but I know in the US (where many if not most boats are mfg) the American Boat & Yacht Council Standards exclude solder as the sole means of electrical connection for wire terminations, now I know those rules aren't binding in Canada but it shows that the connection has limitations in some arenas.
The reasoning as I understand it is that soldering make the joint very brittle and subject to breaking in an environment that is subjected to vibration, this is likely due to an improperly done solder but they are a reactionary council.

Over the years I have seen many crimp on connectors fail and every time I could honestly say the termination was not done correctly. Generally an incorrect tool was used but occasionally the connector was a low grade inferior piece.

It takes a precise amount of pressure to preform a proper crimp, one that fuses (welds) the crimp to the wire but does not deform and maline the crimp so much that its integrity is not compromised, this cannot be done accurately with a $5 crimping tool.

All my connections are done by crimp/heat shrink and it makes me feel better LOL




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