boat problem

the runt

Active Member
Hi folks,had aboat problem 2days ago any advice would be great.When i start my boat for the first time,it fires right up idles great runs great.The problem is when turn it off It's a ***** to get it started again,i have to pump the throttle a lot with a lot of cranking.wich in turn fried my celanoid. Yes i did carry an extra,replaced it floating around,not reccommened.I run a 351 ford with a rochester 2 barrel carb,should be simple,is there a float that is not set right.Mabe someone knows thanks for ANY advice.
 
I wonder if it's someting to do with the choke? I'm not sure what sort of choke setup you have (automatic or manual), but if it's not working right, it can be an issue such as what you are describing.

Good luck.
 
I'm wondering if its not a bad coil, they act like that when there shot. A test for choke is next time it does it take a screw driver stick it in carb so it holds all flappers open on carb and crank it over, if it starts its a carb problem. if not I would say its a coil.
 
Hi guys,the choke flap is wide open,also the coil is brand new less than 2 hrs.on it.is there a float level?
 
I have a 302 (same engine) in my double eagle. Probably some gunk in the float chamber. If you have a water/filter separator take it out & empty it into a clear container & check for water & scale etc.If its full of water then water has passed thru it into the float chamber & is covering the main jets at the bottom of the chamber & it will be very hard to start. Unscrew one of the bottom screws of the float chamber & catch the fluid that leaks out & see if it has any water in it. If it does you have two options. One take the flat chamber cover off & blow out the chamber & float /needle assembly with compessed air. Replace the gasket & reassemble. Two, If that doesn't work you may have to remove the carb & dismantle clean etc. If there is no water/scale in the filter then put the filter back on & crank the engine for 30 seconds & take the filter off again. If it hasn't filled up it'll be the fuel pump.
Good Luck
 
quote:Originally posted by knotoncall

I have a 302 (same engine) in my double eagle. Probably some gunk in the float chamber. If you have a water/filter separator take it out & empty it into a clear container & check for water & scale etc.If its full of water then water has passed thru it into the float chamber & is covering the main jets at the bottom of the chamber & it will be very hard to start. Unscrew one of the bottom screws of the float chamber & catch the fluid that leaks out & see if it has any water in it. If it does you have two options. One take the flat chamber cover off & blow out the chamber & float /needle assembly with compessed air. Replace the gasket & reassemble. Two, If that doesn't work you may have to remove the carb & dismantle clean etc. If there is no water/scale in the filter then put the filter back on & crank the engine for 30 seconds & take the filter off again. If it hasn't filled up it'll be the fuel pump.
Good Luck

That's good advice, as well the advice about the new coil.

However, if that doesn't solve your problem, get your carb rebuilt. The gaskets are likely worn out, and the fuel is leaking out into your venturis and flooding your engine, resulting in your issue.

Also, have you changed your plugs recently? Checked your timing?

Change your plugs, check your timing, and rebuild your carb, it should be starting like a brand new boat.
 
I had a similar problem with my small block Chev engine on my old Bayliner. Woudn't start when it was warmed up. Turns out that the choke was on full. To find this out, I took the flame arrester off the carb and watched the butterfly valve when the engine was cranked. The valve remained closed. I wedged a screwdriver down the carb throat to hold the bf valve open and it started.

fwiw, Tom
 
Like I said, if the choke is not just right... :D
 
From what you describe about a warm engine not starting after being shut down, it sounds like a classic case of vapour lock. try cracking your fuel fill open. This should not occur on a boat as the tanks are designed to be vented, but the same can be said for a car fuel tank, and they can vapour lock.

Drewski
 
Hmmm....My 4-banger Volvo, when warm after running, will not start unless I either have the throttle full or in idle/nutral, sometimes. Anything in between, forget it! But if I try anything in between and it hangs up, full open throttle is a must:)
 
I know all about these engines and I know what your problem is. You need to turn the inboard into a fish box and bolt on a big outboard.[:eek:)]
 
I just had the same problem. I have a 351 Ford 233 HP Merc parts with 2 barrel carb did the same thing. Got a mechanic to look at it today and told me it is a carb problem. The engine starts up fine when cold, then if it turns off, it takes a while before it fires up. I am having my carb rebuilt as it tunrs out this is the problem.
I went through the same thing, I changed to coil and plugs and wires and points, condensors but no difference.Hope this helps.
 
Many boats do not have a quality water/fuel seperators and even when they do people don't change them enough. It's like maintence by time vs maintance by use. Most people don't realize that the less you use it the more maintenance you have to do. Many starting hot or cold problems are related to fuel.

1.Fill fuel tanks when storing for any length of time and add stabalizer, this help to prevent condensation in tank and helps to stop the severe drop in octaine rating of the gas.

2.Change your fuel filter every three months min otherwise they will start to pack up and allow crap into the carbs or injectors which is even worse.

3.If you have an inboard put an in line filter before the carb or on a out board before the motor connection as a cheap extra precaution.

4.Depending on the boat some times over time the vent for built in tanks gets coroded or kinked and I agree, vapour lock can occur as gas warms up while motor has been shut off.

5.Run High or Mid Grade gas. Which is even more important at the gas docks or older gas stations. (OUCH)

6.If buying gas often from a gas dock or older gas station, change filters more often as there tanks gas has more water and crap in it.

Sorry for the hijack but bad fuel creates so many problems. So to prevent them and save money in the long run I just thought I would provide some suggestions.


Just an opinion
Cheers ME
Wishing everyone hasle free boating time!
 
Sounds like fuel cavitation or boiling in the lines. Not common on newer models but back when emissoins regulations began to come in to play a lot of V8 and V6's would create some much heat aroudn fuel line that it woudl vapor lock or boil the fuel effectively starving the engine - warm engine restarts would be a royal pain.

Auto makers installed heat sheild, insulation around line and re-routed line away from EGR, Manifolds, exhaust manifold crossovers. Some back yard mech's would wrap lines with tin foil and insulation.

Electrical is almost always an on/off thing with coil being the exception but even coil problems are quite rare...here again heat sheilding will prevent exceesiive voltage resistance in the coil resulting from high temps.

Hope this helps
 
Hi folks thanks for the response,Her's what i have done so far.changed the water separator.even though it was changed 2 trips ago i dumped it in a glass yes there was a little water in it.[Not much,mabe 3-4 teaspoons but without it there would have been additional problems]The separator did it's job.I also chnged out my copper fuel line then added another inline filter.cleaned the carb.I'll give it another go.I appreciate the numerous responses thank you all.
 
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