Your thoughts on a new Engine

[Jimbo]

Thanks for the input CS and GB, the most deadrise i have been able to find is 18 degreee with the extended transom, supposedly they handle real well, the entry of course is more.I would like to find one with an OPTI but never see them> lookin portland way. I may have to settle for a yamaha 4 stroke.I still toy with the idea of a glass boat with a cuddy such as a striper 21 or 23 or ideally a campion 602 or 622 {hard to find for a decent price- 30 ish}I like the idea of all composite consruction and the reinforced keels. Cuddy or no cuddy? I want to be able to do overniters to silva bay and pender harbour etc.I keep lookin at all the boat **** lol. any good sites in washington or portland? seen brinsfield, craigslist etc.

Tight Lines!!!!!!!

 

[flytyer]

Guys

As usual you all rock, this is the reason why i have not left this forum. Everyone has there own ideas and comments and for the most part are accepted by all. As asked before it is a 07 200hp opti Is 7k to much??

 

[scott craven]

not compared to a 2007 yamaha 4 stroke, which would be at least twice that price

 

[gradyboat]

7 k is a great price for any 07 200hp motor. Un less there is problems with it so a test drive is a must.......

 

[marula]

quote:Originally posted by flytyer

Guys

As usual you all rock, this is the reason why i have not left this forum. Everyone has there own ideas and comments and for the most part are accepted by all. As asked before it is a 07 200hp opti Is 7k to much??

Thats a great price but check the hours on it. The onboard computer can spit out a print out of how many engine hours and at what RPM range and can tell if any engine codes were thrown. Make sure you ask for that. What are you doing for a prop?

 

[flytyer]

More good info about the printout. Have not even thought of a prop yet, idea's????

 

[KoneZone]

I only wish that I had the problem of repowering a nice boat like that. From what I have heard the Evinrude ETEC is the Cat's meow. The power band is sick! Kind of reminds me of the time I tried my buddy's dirt bike and almost crapped my pants. Supposed to be very fuel efficient and meets the 2010 EPA smog requirements. Here's a link http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/ Good luck! Mike

 

[searun]

Buy a SUZUKI. They kick butt over the rest of the competition in almost every way...but most importantly they back their product 100% and I can speak from recent experience. If you get a new one in 2009 they will all come with a 6 year warranty. No one can touch them. Go see Gord at Breakers in Bamfield or Port Alberni. They are really great guys and the after sales service is simply outstanding. And if you don't believe me, talk to the rest of the guides in Bamfield...we all run SUZUKI's for a reason. My other advice is put the biggest engine your boat can handle. More power means you can back off the throttle and work the engine less.

 

[Charlie]

I run twin 2003 225 Merc's (made by Yamaha)on my Boston Whaler 295. They idle down real nice and are quiet. Plus, I don't need a kicker. The "burn rate" is the "burn rate". If the engines are running properly and within the specs... they will burn per the RPM rating.


Yamaha F150hp 4 Stroke
Engine Type 4 cyl.
Displacement 162.8 ci (2670 cc)
RPM Range 5000-6000
Alternator Output @ W.O.T. 35A
Compression Ratio 9.0:1
Fuel/Induction System DOHC Fuel Injection
Lubrication Wet Sump
Ignition System TCI Micro Computer
Starting System Electric
Shaft Length 20in., 25in.
Gear Ratio 28:14 (2.00)
C.A.R.B. Rating 3-Star
Weight* 466 lb. (212 kg)</u>
Warranty 3 Year Limited Pleasure Boat - 1 Year Limited Commercial


Yamaha 150hp 2.6L 2 Stroke
Engine Type V6 (90º)
Displacement 158.4 ci (2596 cc)
RPM Range 4500-5500
Alternator Output @ W.O.T. 25A
Compression Ratio 6.2:1
Fuel/Induction System Carb Loop Charged
Lubrication Precision Blend Oil Injection
Ignition System CDI Micro Computer
Starting System Electric
Shaft Length 25 in.
Gear Ratio 14:26 (1.86)
Weight* 426 lb (194 kg)</u>
Warranty 2 Year Limited Pleasure Boat - 1 Year Limited Commercial



OptiMax 150 Specifications
HP @ Prop 150
kW @ Prop 110
Max RPM (WOT) 5250-5750
Cylinder/Configuration V-6 (60 degree vee)
Displacement (CID/cc) 153/2507
Bore & Stroke (in) 3.50 x 2.65
Bore & Stroke (mm) 89 x 67
Cooling System Water-cooled w/ thermostat & pressure controlled
Ignition System PCM 07
Starting Electric
Gear Ratio 1.87:1
Gear Shift F-N-R
Steering Remote
Alternator Amp 60 (belt-driven)
Alternator Watt 756 (belt-driven)
Trim System Power trim
Exhaust System Through prop
Lubrication System Electronic multipoint oil injection
Recommended Oil Mercury OptiMax/DFI Engine Oil
Fuel Induction System 2-stage direct fuel injection
Shaft Length (inches) 20/25
Shaft Length (mm) 508/635
Dry Weight (lbs.) 431</u>
Dry Weight (kg.) 195
Operator Warning System Overheat, low oil level
SmartCraft Yes
CARB Star Rating 2
Warranty 3
Counter Rotation Available

I would do the Yamaha 4 stroke!

 

[SIR]

We run 115 opti's on both of our 20' welded aluminum tour boats. The 115's are adequate power and move the boats along under load at 25mph at 20 lph or 30mph at 30 lph. We trade the motors in every three years with 1300 to 1500 hours on them.

A 115 on a 20' is adequate but a 135 or a 150 would not be overpowered on a heavier welded aluminum. With Opti's the 115 is the highest smaller block models. Moving to the 135 and up models puts you in the heavier block which is something to keep in mind if you are worried about trim (for example a podded boat where the pod does not go all the way down to the bottom of the hull). If your boat can take the larger hp engine, and you can afford the extra $$$ as there is a price jump from the 115 to the 135, running a larger hp motor at lower rpm's is more fuel efficient and likely to give the engine a longer life span. We run 115's as we are wieght/price sensitive.

If you are testing opti's BE SURE to get a print out and check that the hours are reasonable, that it was being operated in a recommended rpm range (mostly around 4000 rpm) and that there have been no alarm conditions - especially low oil. Check that it starts easily and idles smoothly, most problems are at idle/start. Listen to the motor at idle and make sure there are no engine rattles (most piston problems show up in the first 150 hours). Take off the cowl and inspect all the oil/fuel lines for any leaks. Look for any signs of corrossion on any of the diagnostic connections. Trim the motor all the way up and down and and make sure the oil cap seats/seals well in the up position. Check the back of the lower leg for touch-up paint indicating it might have been whacked. Take it for a spin running it slowly up the throttle checking for smooth power all the way up. Check reverse. Throttle back from high power to neutral and check it does not stall. If it has digital guages run it till it's hot then check that the water pressure and temperature are okay. If it doesn't have guages check that the water flow out of the outboard is strong and warm not weak and hot. If you are buying one with Smart Tach guages check to see if the trim angle displays otherwise it still needs the analogue to digital add-on sender. If it doesn't come with a Smart Tach guage and you are going to be trolling on your main engine BUY ONE as it gives you 10rpm push button increment/decrement control.

If all of the above looks good buy it and pray you got a good one - these days there aren't that many lemons but they do exist..... If anything has you worried take it to a dealer and have them run a compression test and the cylinders and check the fuel/oil pressures as these three things can be done in under 20 minutes and will give you a pretty good indicator of if anything serious is wrong.

I'm sure I forgot something but it is 5:30 in the morning and I haven't had the first cup of coffee yet Good luck shopping!!!

 

[salmon9]

I have owned and operated old 2 strokes, new fuel injected and high pressure 2 strokes, new and old 4 strokes from various manufacturers and hp ranges. Overall, I can't say anyone engine has been a lemon and all did their job well, some quietier and more efficient than others. I would look at a 2 stroke made in the past 5 years, either an Opti, HPDI or E-Tec. They can be almost as fuel efficient as a 4 stroke, easy to maintain, proven reliability, cost-effective, and great power particularly out of the hole. If the price is good with a warranty I would buy one. Everybody wants a 4 stroke so resale may be more of a concern. My past boat had a 4 stroke Yammi my current boat has a 2 stroke HPDI, both excellent engines, about the same fuel burn for same size boats (I seem to run at lower rpms with the 2 stroke).