WTB a jet boat tin'r, like some input

kanuckle head

Well-Known Member
I have a Wooldridge in mind. have ridden in my buddies boat & like the construction, 1/4in bottom, rolled formed sides, accessible bow pit via windshield swing door
The boat is located in Bent Oregon if a verbal offer is met I will make a trip to view her
I have no experience in jet sleds or jet outboards
What key detail should I look for, other than the obvious in how beat up the bottom of the hull is and if the motor fires & runs
This is a mid 80's boat & motor
 

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Beware of carpeted bunks on aluminum hulls, some corrosion may be hidden in there. Jack the corner and take a peek

cheers
 
pull the floor boards and check the insulation between the stringers, if any (US boat, so may not have to meet the unsinkable reg that Canada has for smaller boats). If waterlogged it adds a TON of weight and greatly affects performance with a jet. Floor boards should be easy to pull as anyone owning a smaller boat that has to meet unsinkable regs should pulls theirs regularly to ensure insulation isn't sucking up water. Newer foam apparently doesn't have such a bad problem but stuff used in quite a number of manufacturers through 90's and early 00's sponge up a surprising amount. Also, depending on how sturdy you want your boat to be number of stringers matters if you're likely to be bouncing it off some rocks in skinny water (e.g. hunting up the Gateau or Tuchodi). For those applications the likes of Alicraft and Outlaw have 9+ stringers in the bottom. If you're fishing deeper/milder water not an issue and lighter may be better for performance and fuel $ (jets are thirsty!!). Similarly, if running skinny water a bottom coating of "teflon" (UHM or whatever the acronym is for the plastic) is a big plus as aluminum grabs rock and gravel. Again, if not needed you won't want the extra weight.

Get him to pull the impeller and sleeve and look for scour and wear from sucking up sand and gravel. Doesn't take very much wear to cause cavitation (i.e. blowing air bubbles along with water = reduced power), which greatly affects performance of your jet. Owning a jet will mean you'll go through sleeves and impellers, though - nature of the beast. Of course, no substitute for running it as height of intake, dents on bottom, etc, etc can cause cavitation and performance issues. A bit of lag to get up on step isn't the biggest concern as a cheap fix of welding on a couple of trim plates often makes a world of difference for very little $'s. Lower units have to be well greased and should get a shot in the nipple until clean grease comes out before every use. Get him to do this and look at what comes out. A bit of off colour from sitting and the last use isn't bad but if it looks like the grease hasn't been changed or maintained regularly the motor's likely been abused and not maintained well. Any way, a bit of a list of some things to consider/check. Far from comprehensive.

Ukee
 
I would look for hydralic steering. I would look for four stroke outboards. I would try and find a boat that has a motor that is near to max power for the hull. As for outboard jet sled wooldridge sled have been pretty close to the same design for the last 30 years that say's something. If I was looking for a outboard jet sled it would be a wooldridge there is a fair number for sale used. When shopping for a good aluminum boat if your going to buy from the states have your money and everything ready to go. The good deal come and go very quick you must be ready to buy quickly. Also low hours is not always better. I looked at the 7 years old hewescraft with 60 hours and the guy told me the hours were so low he never had to change the oil. So maintance records or info are just as important as low hours
 
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