Windlass Anchoring

Discussion in 'Boats, Motors, Trailers and Towing Rigs Forum' started by Rain City, Apr 25, 2020.

  1. fishin solo

    fishin solo Well-Known Member

    Use your MFD and set a anchor alarm. Super easy
    Rain City likes this.
  2. Rain City

    Rain City Crew Member

    I tried that and with the swing it kept going off and freaking me out! Can't set the range too big in a tight bay or you'd be on the wall before it goes off. Come to think of it I've never really slept all that well unless I've been at a dock lol.
  3. fishin solo

    fishin solo Well-Known Member

    Haha yeah Ive had the alarm go off 1 time but yeah I prefer the dock
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  4. RiverBoy

    RiverBoy Well-Known Member

    @Rain City I actually prefer to raft with another boat but the trick is one boat to set their pick off the bow and the other boat to set their pick off the stern. start cinching it up and voila you have two anchor points and you’re not swinging wildly as winds and tides change.
    easier said than done obviously as not all boats are capable of moving their anchor to the stern but it’s doable and very secure.
    the scope has already been touched on but it cannot be under stated the importance of the chain resting on the ocean floor. we have even added a cannon ball to the chain where it joins the rope to ensure the chain is laying flat on the ocean floor.

    now if someone can pls teach me how to properly tie a rope off to a cleat i’d be forever on your debt. i get the whole half hitch thing but apparently i’m starting off on the wrong side of the cleat of something. ppl keep teaching me and they’re like, “ do you understand?”
    i always nod my head like i do but i actually don’t
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2020
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  5. eriks

    eriks Active Member

  6. dmurph

    dmurph Well-Known Member

    I miss steveston lol
  7. CBsqrd

    CBsqrd Well-Known Member

    Use a cleat hitch. Nice thing is that it is very easy to tell by looking at it if you've tied it correctly. Also, the bitter/running (free) end of the rope should be on the same side as you. i.e. if you are tying to a cleat on the dock, the bitter end should be pointing to the dock, and not back towards the boat (and falling in the water).

    Here's a very thorough video:

    Came across this too, which is really good for different ways of tying a bowline:
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  8. RiverBoy

    RiverBoy Well-Known Member

    ahh yes. i’ve watched this video many times before but for some reason i think it kinda clicked.
    don’t get me started on the bowline ....
  9. Rain City

    Rain City Crew Member

    I do the wabbit
  10. agentaqua

    agentaqua Well-Known Member

    I agree that it is tricky and a bit of trial and error setting the anchor alarm on the GPS. What I found helpful over the years is to set it over the spot where your anchor is dropped (@ the center of that circle) if you can remember doing it right away after the drop, and thinking about what the "scope" is on your anchor chain/cable/rope. By that I mean subtract the depth of the water off what you have out. So - using easy numbers - if the water depth @ low tide is say 20 feet and you dropped 100 feet of chain/cable/rope then the "scope" should be 80 feet. Most GPS use meters - so punch in 25m (80 feet) or slightly more as the allowed anchor circle radius. You can always play around a bit while you are sitting there and see what works the best.

    In addition, the better chartplotters/radars have a proximity alarm that can also be useful in tight quarters.

    No, it's usually not a deep sleep while @ anchor - but in higher winds and inclimate weather - the anchor alarm gives me enough reassurance that I can in fact allow myself to fall asleep. Over time anchoring in different anchorages - you will learn the quirks and local risks of each one - and which ones are too small for the expected traffic.

    One of the local phenomenon to note - is that there are a number of "wind funnels" along the coast that become apparent only @ increased wind velocities from the expected SE storm winds, usually. Often they empty into certain anchorages only @ certain high wind velocities from certain directions. And that wind comes over the mountain passes @ those higher velocities and shifts the prevailing wind velocities and breaks your anchor out of the holding ground and sets you adrift as it swings you around in the middle of the nite. This is where & when the anchor alarm is critical. In those anchorages with those winds you will need to put out as much scope as possible and/or even set up a shore line.

    The way to end up as nearly as safe as being tied-up while @ anchor - and is useful and worthwhile for anchor stays longer than 1 nite - is to set-up a shore line. Can't necessarily be done in every/some locations - but is often worth the extra prep.
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2020
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  11. Rain City

    Rain City Crew Member

    I agree 100% on the shore/stern line. I now keep 1000' roll of yellow floating line on board. Not having enough line is what made things difficult in the past. Learning proper technique makes it simple and kind of fun to set up :)
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  12. Sir Reel

    Sir Reel Well-Known Member

    I'm going to add chocks like on this Commander. I have the chocks but have not drilled new holes in the boat yet. This is a 2011 model. He has 2 cleats on the front too. So if your tying off to a mooring ball you would run the rope from one cleat through a chock, through the mooring ball ring, and then back to the other chock and cleat. It would not go through the anchor roller.
    That is a 15KG Rocna on there. You should put a anchor tether on too. It would prevent accidental deployment.
    The second picture shows the tether and also a bow eye that you can attach your snubber to. much stronger and lowers your scope by 3 feet or so.

    IMG_5953 (2).jpg
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  13. Rain City

    Rain City Crew Member

    Yah that looks way better.
  14. agentaqua

    agentaqua Well-Known Member

    Ya - for sure, RC. Several different shoreline techniques/options - often dependent upon what you have and what options are there, locally.
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  15. ab1752

    ab1752 Well-Known Member

    That's it I'm ordering a new anchor today. 15kg is probably overkill for my 26', what do y'all reccomend?
  16. Rain City

    Rain City Crew Member

    15kg sounds huge for yours. I had the 7.5kg for the bayliner which was 6500lb. I need a 15kg, find a good deal somewhere?
  17. fishin solo

    fishin solo Well-Known Member

    If it’s gonna be a rocna 10kg prob do the job with no issues
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  18. Thunder21

    Thunder21 Well-Known Member

    I’m not super experienced at anchoring but I have definitely done it on a few different boats. The big key in my opinion is having a lot of chain. The anchor itself is important but not as important as having shitloads of chain . My 26’ Hourston had a rediculous amount of chain( like 150 ft) and I found myself anchored in 50km winds and didn’t move an inch. RC, when your bayliner slipped off anchor how much chain did you have? Just curious because I may need to add some to my Commander.
  19. ab1752

    ab1752 Well-Known Member

    Mine has 50'of chain and 200' of rope that should be good for my needs. Rocna it is but I gotta do so measuring of the roller.
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2020
  20. Rain City

    Rain City Crew Member

    Same as the length of the boat I think? Whatever the minimum was. It was the swing that got me. No amount of chain would have solved that one.

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