Discussion in 'Boats, Motors, Trailers and Towing Rigs Forum' started by Rain City, Apr 25, 2020.
You still have the old rocna? How big was the Bayliner?
No I sold it with the boat. I'm an idiot though because I had the old bruce too. The guy who bought the bayliner will NEVER anchor it. It was a 245
If you toe rail has fairleads, I’d use your 30’ rope as a snubber, and run the ends through the fairleads to your samson post, if not, run it through the anchor roller back to the post.
Ahh yes. Remove the bolt ons and sell separately. Just like a truck!
What did the Rocna cost you? You remember ish? I seem to like spending on my boat
$350 or so for a 10kg one. Some of the best money you’ll spend on your boat if you anchor up overnight.
No toe rail and fair leads but do have the two cleats. I just cleated off the rope on both ends for the mooring ball last trip so I guess now I'll just get a chain hook to act as a snubber?
Maybe off the title of the thread. I'll tie it into the other thread about trailering. Between personal experience and what I've seen, when it comes to anchoring and trailering what can go wrong will go wrong. You can
I think I paid like $275 for the 7.5kg if I remember correct. Not sure what size I'd need for the commander but perhaps a 10kg would do it.
I remember thinking at the time WOW that's cheap for something so critical. And man what a difference it makes compared to the Bruce.
The nylon rope is the snubber actually, it acts as the shock absorber. You can tie off to the chain with a shackle.
My marina neighbor has a Commander 26 and has a 10kg one.
Gotcha. And it's ok to run that straight through your pulpit roller and onto the post? (not sure if I'm using the correct term there). I guess once the chain goes slack the snubber can seat nicer? The problem with the cleats on the commander is they're a good 5' back from the bow on each side. So even tying a sling from cleat to cleat the boat spins and twists all day and night.
Hey RC. I put a 15kg Rocna on mine and the windlass handles it no problem. I got mine on sale at Martin Marine for $349 last year which was an amazing deal. Your right it sets right away and literally stops the boat!
I have 200’ of chain and 150’ of rope. I made a snubber with 20 of rope and a chain hook you can buy at any marine store. You probably have 1/4” chain so would need a 1/4” hook. If you pay out more than 150’ of chain then you can just tie your rope to the posts otherwise use the snubber. You set your anchor and then attached the hook to the chain and lower it some more while keeping tension on the line. Tie off to the post and then lower the chain some more so the tension is on the snubber. I marked my chain every 25’ with paint. I painted a 3 Foot section red when the anchor just states to clear the water. That way I know it is about to come into the bow roller but I can also drive forward in idle and wash it off before I bring it up.
Then I painted every 25’
Red is 25
2 reds are 50
3 reds are 75
Blue red is 100
Blue is 125
Blue blue is 150
Blue blue blue is 175
Blue red blue is 200
Then I am into rope.
you should add 5 feet to the water depth to calculate your scope from the bow roller. If water is 30 feet then use 35 feet. A 5 to 1 scope with a Rocna is good so you would need 175 feet of rode.
This is a free anchoring course you can take from Passage maker magazine. Thanks Covid!
Some of it is pretty basic but it covers everything. Plus you get to print a certificate at the end!
RC it shows how to use a snubber and why.
Can you add 2 more cleats closer to the Samson post?
Good thread have been questioning my anchoring technique as well. Been thinking to upgrade from the Danforth to a Bruce or something better, sounds like I’d be mistaken to buy anything but a Rocna? I’ve anchored over night quite a bit over the years but always in water no more then usually 20 feet deep and usually tighter spots, I’ve never really used proper scope as I never really understood how it works because of all the swing. Do most here use the recommended scope. I normally just get a good set I’m confident in which often takes a few attempts, then I pull in most of the slack and just let some out for the tide rise 10 to 30 feet at most.
Depends where you're anchoring for the scope thing. Lots of marine parks you stern tie and they're super protected so not as much need. If I were sleeping on the hook alone I'd go for at least 4-1. What happened to us (the incident) was the wind shifted overnight in what we thought was a protected bay on the south side of Lasquiti. Flipped us around and I woke up to my buddy jumping on to my bow to try and push the boat off the rocks. Luckily it was a cliff face or we would have easily been on bottom. 4 AM with the wind howling in the pitch black trying to get another boat off of you was not the highlight of my life (we rafted up, another huge mistake)
From what I'm hearing I'm guessing the post is as good as it gets. I figure if I'm tying to a mooring ball maybe I'd still pay out some anchor line to get the rope to seat better in the roller? Or maybe you're right just adding one as a guide might be good enough. Still use the post to tie to.
I will now be anchored around lasquieti boating out of French creek or Barkley. Regardless mostly all new to me spots which makes it a little more restless. Rocna really outperform your Bruce big time? That night time drift would have been real stressful. I remember anchoring up of thrasher rock once when we first started boating, had to cut the anchor there was no getting it back from that reef. The days of trial and error, now we have the internet and this forum
Night and day difference. That's what sold me was the idea that if it does pull out it self rights and resets, hopefully. Cant stay on it's back.
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