Where and How to install downriggers?

GSiloveyou

New Member
Looking to install one or two electric scotty downriggers on a 170 dauntless and don't know where to begin. I have the boat stored in the fraser river throughout the year and can't find any marine services that do out of shop work.

Is this something an inexperienced person can do or should I leave it to a professional?

if anyone has any recommendations or contacts they would love to share please let me know

Thanks!
 
Need to know the gunwale spec's (or a photo) to advise which brackets to use.
there might be room on the transom in each back corner ?
 
Get a professional as they can do some damage if not installed properly.

Go on the Scotty downrigger site for installation options. I personally use the angle bracket setup for increased rigidity
 
Call a pro - get the piece of mind...you don't sound super confident.
You might find a bored, experienced sportie with a couple hours on his hands and you can pay cash.
Whats you location?
 
Scotty makes a rail mount that you stick a piece of wood or plastic into that work well.
41gmwz9AkJL._AC_.jpg


It's tricky to bolt through because of the foam filled aspect of the boat.
Some people get an aluminum mounting plate bent and fitted.
Opinions differ on how far forward (or back) to place them.
I'd put it right where the middle support for the railing is if your boat is like this one.
https://www.bostonwhaler.com/family-overview/dauntless-boat-models/170-dauntless/
 
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I think my only option is to install with the rail mount option, there are two seats in the back that can be closed

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Cool boat! But not a super easy installation. I’m fairly new at this stuff, but gave it a lot of thought before I pulled the trigger. (Or drilled any holes in my fibreglass.)
So, instead of any installation advice, maybe some things to think about...
1) I wouldn’t want riggers without the swivel mount. The mount is quite tall, so you need to consider it being a tripping hazard when boarding.
2) I personally think they should be mounted as far back as possible to keep your lines from going under the boat when you have to do a tight turn.
3) You want easy access to the brake & retrieve switch.
4) Consider the length of the boom & where it will end up when swung forward or back.
5) If the rod holder is on the boom, how far do you have to lean over to get the rod out?
6) Are you going to mount a trap hauler on the same mount? Puts a higher load on the base assembly.
That’s all I can think of at the moment. I’m sure others can add to the list.

If you are not a DIY kind of person, with access to some rudimentary tools & basic knowledge of electrics, it might be best to hire a pro. But, do spend some time placing the rigger in different spots to see how it will fit & how easy it is to reach. That will help you decide which mounting system to use.

At first thought, I would consider the rail mount system for your boat. If the rails are sturdy, with good backing at the mount points.
 
With the outward angle on the railing a right-angle mount will not work and it appears that there is not enough width at the gunwhale for the vertical brace of the rail mount unit. It looks like some pro fabricating might be needed.
 
I had a 17' Montauk and the rail mount posted by @tubber above is what I used and would use again. I'd recommend a piece of starboard for the vertical piece that connects to a foot that sits over the gunnel to prevent the downrigger from bouncing up if the event you snag bottom and the boom bounces up.

I'd place the bracket above or as close to either the front or middle stanchion of your rear rail.

Another thing to consider is how you'll run the wiring. You might be able to make use of the rigging tube to run the wires to the transom and then to each side. If you use the rail mount you can fit the receptacle into the vertical starboard. On my Montauk I just ran the wires from the battery in the console and zip tied them to some cable ties to keep everything organized. When I wasn't using the riggers I coiled up the wire and stored it in the console.

Below is a pic of how the mounts were installed on the Montauk. Let me know if you have any questions.

IMG_6990.JPG
 
My thoughts were a length of aluminum plate on both the inside of the gunnel and on the outside for strength and joined across the top by flat bar material as well, it would bolt right through the top of the gunnel...then weld on a vertical post that comes up under the rail...then 2 pieces of flat material the same size as the downrigger base...one welded to the top of the vertical post and coming up on the underside of the rail (with a curved section the same as the O.D of the rail tubing so it comes up tight and snug to it) same on the top side and the top piece bolted to the bottom to form a sandwhich around the rail....now bolt the rigger to the top plate.....it would have stiff support from the hull and the rail. Powder coat white to match the hull. This could be done by any welding shop...you would just have to draw it out.
 
Crude sketch so you can visualize it.
 

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Nice boat. I once had a 15’ dauntless with a custom built aluminum powder coated mounting board that ran from gunnel to gunnel. I believe Whaler can supply you with drawings showing where there is thick backing on the gunnels for mounting purposes - something to consider if you want to get real serious. That was before the Scotty 2027 stanchion mount existed - probably your best solution.
If you do get serious about fishing, you may want to look into getting a T-top rather than using the Bimini top the boat came with. I’ve had 2 boats that came with Bimini tops and it really makes moving around the boat when you have a fish on difficult. There are some great after market T-Tops on the market. I had one custom out of Stainless Steel by a company in Vernon.
My 2 cents
Stosh
 
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