wheel bearing tools
- Thread starter Goathorns
- Start date
Rotten Ronnie
Member
A brass drift, channel-lock pliers, grease, needle-nose pliers, small hammer, blade screwdriver, replacement bearing set ( rear seals, races, bearings, cotter pins, dust cap) and rags is everything I need.
pescador
Well-Known Member
I always take a complete hub assemble. If I lose a bearing I can just pull the entire assemble off. Never had to do it but I carry the instructions on how to in my kit. Also. I’m considering carrying a spare leaf sprint after seeing so many guys break Springs on the road to gold river. Always carry a small sledge hammer and an impact wrench.
casper5280
Crew Member
I just carry a whole hub assembly too, way easier and less stress. Whole kit with small tube grease, tools, rubber gloves, and some paper tools or rags takes up no room at all.
SpringVelocity
Crew Member
I carry everything. I dont carry a replacement hub set as I am pretty fast at taking the set apart.
Bearing, grease, seals and all tools you need. Also carry a heavy duty jack etc.
I also carry a lot of replacement misc. Like rollers etc. Never know...
Bearing, grease, seals and all tools you need. Also carry a heavy duty jack etc.
I also carry a lot of replacement misc. Like rollers etc. Never know...
walleyes
Crew Member
Lol, I was just putting all my stuff together for our trip and getting my tools ready and was thinking of posting a list of tools to take along on a long trip in particular those to do a bearing set.
Looks like most have nailed it as far as tools I will add these.
If you don’t know how to properly hand pack bearings then have a bearing packing tool, it’s no use changing them if they aren’t packed correctly.
Throw in a couple small blocks of wood like 12” or 18” 2 x 4’s are great. They can be used to chalk wheels and also they work great for putting the seals it, hold the board over the seal and set them in nice and evenly and it’s easy in the seals.
Make sure you have a good long punch like 10” or so, it’s hard on knuckles hammering out the race with a short punch, I have a 12” piece of 3/8 metal rod that I use. It’s long I keep a good lip on it and it’s softer than the hub so it doesn’t damage it.
Last but not least one of the most important is have a cleaning solution to clean the parts with. There is no use in fixing something if it’s not clean and I mean hospital clean. I’m a 3rd generation equipment guy believe me cleanliness is paramount in equipment repairs. Take along a small pail and have a jug of gas if that’s not possible have at least one can of break cleaner to blast clean your parts.
It’s not always necessary to change out the races, if the races are not old and if they are smooth with no nics it’s not 100% necessary to change them, yes it’s a good idea to but not always necessary. Clean them good wipe them off and dry them and inspect them, it can save a lot of time and grief if you don’t have to change them. If you catch it in time it’s a good chance they won’t need to be changed. I check my hubs at every stop I check them the first hour then at least every 3-4 hrs after just to make sure. I don’t use a meter just my hand, if they are too hot to hold your hand on permanently there is something wrong. They can be hot but if they burn your hand get in before it’s to late.
Good topic by the way.
Looks like most have nailed it as far as tools I will add these.
If you don’t know how to properly hand pack bearings then have a bearing packing tool, it’s no use changing them if they aren’t packed correctly.
Throw in a couple small blocks of wood like 12” or 18” 2 x 4’s are great. They can be used to chalk wheels and also they work great for putting the seals it, hold the board over the seal and set them in nice and evenly and it’s easy in the seals.
Make sure you have a good long punch like 10” or so, it’s hard on knuckles hammering out the race with a short punch, I have a 12” piece of 3/8 metal rod that I use. It’s long I keep a good lip on it and it’s softer than the hub so it doesn’t damage it.
Last but not least one of the most important is have a cleaning solution to clean the parts with. There is no use in fixing something if it’s not clean and I mean hospital clean. I’m a 3rd generation equipment guy believe me cleanliness is paramount in equipment repairs. Take along a small pail and have a jug of gas if that’s not possible have at least one can of break cleaner to blast clean your parts.
It’s not always necessary to change out the races, if the races are not old and if they are smooth with no nics it’s not 100% necessary to change them, yes it’s a good idea to but not always necessary. Clean them good wipe them off and dry them and inspect them, it can save a lot of time and grief if you don’t have to change them. If you catch it in time it’s a good chance they won’t need to be changed. I check my hubs at every stop I check them the first hour then at least every 3-4 hrs after just to make sure. I don’t use a meter just my hand, if they are too hot to hold your hand on permanently there is something wrong. They can be hot but if they burn your hand get in before it’s to late.
Good topic by the way.
daddystoy
Well-Known Member
Yes, good topic. All good advice.
But I will state the obvious. I would say the simplest answer to avoid problems is if you haven't done it already make sure you have given your trailer bearings and brakes a proper re and re. Re pack, re grease, adjust brakes, and you should be fine.
I carry all of the above suggestions myself but this year I do have a spare drum with new bearings installed all freshly greased ready to go. So far not needed. Touch wood.
As for temperature.. I feel the hubs at stops. They should be warm to touch unless you just have come down a hill and the brakes have been working. At least then you know your brakes are working.
But I will state the obvious. I would say the simplest answer to avoid problems is if you haven't done it already make sure you have given your trailer bearings and brakes a proper re and re. Re pack, re grease, adjust brakes, and you should be fine.
I carry all of the above suggestions myself but this year I do have a spare drum with new bearings installed all freshly greased ready to go. So far not needed. Touch wood.
As for temperature.. I feel the hubs at stops. They should be warm to touch unless you just have come down a hill and the brakes have been working. At least then you know your brakes are working.
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