Wanted kicker steering connector

mikeyman

Well-Known Member
I am looking for hardware or options to mount steering bar from main to kicker. Main has hydrolic steering. Bayliner Trophy. I want to have the bar on inside instead of the outside for eaze. I have 2 easy steer bars no couplers or brackets. Could trade or cash. If anyone has picture of what they have done would be very helpful. Thank you!

Mike
 
Ordered a marintech bar. Hopefully it works out. Have 2 ez steer bars if anyone needs them. Willing to trade or sell for whatever.
 
Alk--you can improve on the redi-rod by sliding a piece of gas line on it. No sharp edges for line or anything else to rub on.
If you take a close look at my picture, I actually covered the rod with the plastic wiring loom cover.

Just a heads up when you purchase the ss rod make sure that it is stainless steel. Check it with a magnet - if the magnet sticks to it - it is not stainless.
 
If you take a close look at my picture, I actually covered the rod with the plastic wiring loom cover.

Just a heads up when you purchase the ss rod make sure that it is stainless steel. Check it with a magnet - if the magnet sticks to it - it is not stainless.
If only it were that simple. Some grades of SS have magnetic properties, some don't. The non-magnetic steels are austenitic stainless and are typically the most commonly encountered (mostly 300-series like 304 - the classic '18/8' stainless). Martensitic (I think that is 400 series, metallurgy school was a long time ago) and ferritic steels both have varying degrees of magnetic properties.
 
If only it were that simple. Some grades of SS have magnetic properties, some don't. The non-magnetic steels are austenitic stainless and are typically the most commonly encountered (mostly 300-series like 304 - the classic '18/8' stainless). Martensitic (I think that is 400 series, metallurgy school was a long time ago) and ferritic steels both have varying degrees of magnetic properties.

Interesting, I did not know that.
 
Then there's martensitic stainless, can be and usually is heat treated to make it harder, higher carbon too. Surgical blades and the like. Non magnetic.

I wonder if I'll actually remember something that happened today, having let out a few old useless facts and made room for something new.
 
did the same, my coupler was metric thread tho. covered it with shrink wrap so it wouldn't scratch stuff up. works great untill the tiller handle falls down and the then something gets bent.
 
Also put a net float on it before you thread in the ends in case it goes for a swim it will float and gives it a bit of weight to stop annoy rattles...they are about 3 inchs across and about 6 inchs long.

Wolf
 
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I made my own connecting bar. A piece of ss rod, bend it and thread the ends.

For my last boat I made a steering connector from the lift shock off of a Pontiac firefly rear hatch. The shock and the ball ends that fit the socket ends of the shock came from the auto wreckers and cost under $15
 
Should add, that I'm not sure if it was stainless or not. But i had it 3 years and it had no rust on it when I dropped it in the drink at port McNeill.

Guess I should've put some pool noodle on it.
 
For my last boat I made a steering connector from the lift shock off of a Pontiac firefly rear hatch. The shock and the ball ends that fit the socket ends of the shock came from the auto wreckers and cost under $15
Wow thats a cool idea. For 15 bucks your not so worried about losing it overboard.
 
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