Volvo Outdrive Maintenance

Red Monster

Red Monster

Well-Known Member
I'm in Vancouver and wonder where folks around here go for maintenance work on their outdrives? I'm thinking it may be time to replace the bellows and pump.

The boat is kept on a trailer so I assume such maintenance is not needed as often, but I'm not sure when that work was last done.

I've only had this boat for a year and because it's not an outboard like my last one, I'm not feeling up to the job at this time.

Thanks.
 
Red get the Manual and do it yourself. Thats what I did. Took the whole leg off and resealed it and checked it all out. I was the same as you, it was my first year with the boat and I wanted to make sure everything was all good. The reason I resealed it was I found a bit of water in the oil.
Besides, I've seen the job you did on your wiring and think you could do it to. It really wasn't all that big a job. The bellows that I took off wasn't all bad so kept it as a spare.PM me if you want any info.
 
Volvos are super easy to DIY. Just get a manual. If you are handy it is a good idea to build a rolling jig to support leg for easier removal/install.
 
Red, don't take it to ANY of the local ROBBERS for service. Take the manual out from the library. If you go to Metrotown Library I've already got the books! I'll be returning them shortly! If you want to pm me, no problem!
 
Okay, I bought the manual which I really needed anyways to get up to speed on lots of new stuff. I see the raw water pump is not even in the leg like my old outboard so replacing the impeller should be easier. I was getting quite good at taking off and reinstalling the leg on my old Merc, but taking that drive out looks a bit interesting, and the manual I have doesn't seem to go into great detail about it. DS, which manual do you have and did you use it to actually replace the bellows? Mine is the Selco manual for Volvo Penta Stern Drives 1968-91.Thanks
 
Red, I take out the 1968 -1991 Seloc and the 1968-1991 Clymer just to compare the two. Removing the leg to put on a new Universal joint bellows is easy (and recommended) every second year by most books. (It is the Achilles heal of the leg!) Just follow the instructions. Once you do it the first time and have the right tools you will realize how easy it is. Like most things.
 
Red I bought the Clymer manual and have found it very helpful. Just finished redoing all the cooling system from front to back. took the manifolds off and had them planed and boiled,heat exchanger boiled and replaced all frost and manifold plugs with brass. Repainted the whole works. Changed raw water pump impeller and the only problem I had was putting the pump on backwards. Good thing I took pictures before starting and was able to fix it properly. If your just replacing the driveshaft bellows just pop the upper gear case off and slide the new one on. While your there replace the exhaust and water intake hose. The most important thing is lining the hose clamps up so you can tighten them.I also put a little sika-flex on the hoses just make sure there was a good seal. If you need any info just PM me, but I'm sure you'll do ok on you own. Good luck
 
Red, don't forget when you have the leg off, to grease the gimbal bearing......if it isn't the sealed lifetime type. Also, if you replace the exhaust bellows, do the shift cable bellows as well.
 
Red as for changing the impeller on the raw water pump here what to do ...go buy a new one from sierra or mallory as a new volvo one is stupid expensive I got for about 150 bucks then get the old one repaired as sometimes they need a housing sleeve put into them(mine did)a complete rebuild was I think 75 bucks. and have it for a spare as its a real biatch to have that pump go right in the middle of your season, i personally have been collecting "spare" parts as I dont want to be caught with out anything this way then i wont need them LOL LOL
Got a spare starter,alt,wire set.distrubutor,fuel pump got all for basically free just watch for it they come up...

I just did the leg thing had one seal gone on the shaft drive that we noticed had it in and done in an hour very simple and we used a piece of plastic drain pipe to seat the seal as it was the perfect diameter LOL A complete seal kit for it was 120 bucks seals and everything (sierra).
Good luck wolf
 
Great advice. Thanks for that, guys. I guess I should learn how to pull that drive.

I think I should also learn how to pull the risers as well. One thing at a time.

DS, I replaced the electronice module and installed a valve between the fuel filter and the kicker (to prevent any chance of a siphon issue). I'll report if that solves the stalling issue when I get the boat out on the water again. Even in the winter the engine starts on the first crank and runs like a top. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

So it sounds like you have experience with pulling a volvo drive, DS. I have beer. ;)
 
What do you guys think about OEM versus jobber impellers?
 
They work fine. Sierra work well in Jabsco. Never had a problem in my old rig.
 
I forgot to mention this in my earlier post. You should try to find/borrow an alignment bar. This is done when you have the leg off. You stick the bar in to check the alignment of the engine in relation the the gimbal bearing. I have one for the mercruiser alpha leg. I found the dimensions on the Internet,and then I made it. I don't think the Volvo one is the same. Good idea to check it if you can. If your engine is lo or high, you could greatly reduce the life of the bering.
 
rico said:
I forgot to mention this in my earlier post. You should try to find/borrow an alignment bar. This is done when you have the leg off. You stick the bar in to check the alignment of the engine in relation the the gimbal bearing. I have one for the mercruiser alpha leg. I found the dimensions on the Internet,and then I made it. I don't think the Volvo one is the same. Good idea to check it if you can. If your engine is lo or high, you could greatly reduce the life of the bering.
Click to expand...

A person really has to be careful about what advice to take on the internet. Dont listen to a thing this guy says. Really, an alignment bar on a Volvo? You should really find the facts before you give someone completely out to lunch advice.
 
Rico what IFL didnt say is you dont use an alignment tool like a merc they dont have that type of system and you posted for a merc not anything to do with a VOLVO they have feeler gauges that you use in the back of the engine and you adjust accordingly once done you should never have to redo unless something is moved or replaced.
You just daid the wrong thing regarding volvo but were correct with the merc thing
 
That is exactly IFL's point. People throw out advice on things that truly makes me shake my head at. As for the alignment issue on a Volvo, I just installed my motor after rebuilding my 18.5' Double Eagle and borrowed a marine mechanic's alignment tool for Volvo. It is shaped like a T. The middle part slides over the intermediate shaft while the outside parts HAVE to line up with the transom shields holes were the pins slide through. That's it.
 
But you have to also do inside with these REALLY long feeler gauges on the back corners I really dont know how its done or the procedure but saw my mechanic use them for my leg/motor.
 
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