Volvo Outdrive Gimbal Bearing and U-joint Replacement

[Captain PartyMarty]

hi Guy's

I am getting some vibration and growling from my outdrive while turning and am thinking about replacing the Gimbal Bearing and U-joint. Anybody take this project on? Can it be done by you average backyard mechanic? The drive is a VOLVO DP-C or C1 not quite sure.

Thanks

 

[bigdogeh]

should be some youtube video's showing you how to do it. I've done it a few times on mercruiser outdrives. Had to make and purchase a few specialty tools. It would help if you are fairly mechanically inclined as it is a bit involved.


https://www.google.com/search?q=vol...u7fiAhXI6Z4KHdoGDOMQ_AUIDygC&biw=1920&bih=966

I would change out all gaskets, seals, shift cable bellows, main bellows, etc. Maybe check out the condition of your shift cable also and change it out if it's stiff or suspect...

 

[daddystoy]

If you have a dp-c drive you won't have a gimbal bearing. You will have a u-joint which has a spider and needle bearings.

Google Volvo penta schematic for a dp-c drive. If you're comfortable with your mechanical skills it's a very doable job.

 

[wildthing]

not to hi jack but for a merc alpha gen 2 is it easier just to put on a new leg.
rather than hit and miss rebuilding or taking a chance on a used second hand unit ..
having same issue with mine making noise ...

 

[bigdogeh]

I think that would depend on if you had gear issues. Say if the gears were worn or grenades it might be easier to go to a new leg in the long run...If just gimbal bearing, bellows, u joints, gaskets... prob a few hundred in parts if you do the work yourself. Getting into the gearing can be alot more expensive and more involved when you have to set shims for backlash of gears etc... and cone-clutch might need replacing. Parts start getting expensive and more specialty tools are involved.
If you find metal in your gearlube when you change it or hear grinding noise you believe to be gearing I'd prob start looking for a new leg. Also depends on how quickly you'd like to get back on the water...

 

[Captain PartyMarty]

Hey guys

So I have been researching this job and have ordered the shop manual for my drive. Turns out I have a DP-E drive. I am comfortable doing the work looks fairly straight forward from the guide. However there is one question I have and I am hoping there is a Volvo expert on here.

It looks like in order to remove the shaft from the top gear assembly you have take out the 4 bolts holding the retaining ring. Does this have to be done in order to replace the spider in the u joint? The internet is unclear some say yes some no others beat the **** out of it. The manual shows to take it apart but then goes through a process of replacing a crush bushing by torquing and checking the bearing rolling torque. I could use some guidance on what the appropriate method is for this job.

 

[cracked_ribs]

I'm the furthest thing from an expert but when I resealed my 280 I had to pull those four bolts to remove that spider.

My reinstall method was "put everything back in the same order" but I believe everything is set by shims in the 280 and if there was a single use crush bearing I don't want to know. At any rate I've put around 200 hours on it since then so either I didn't screw up or it will blow any minute now.

On Marine engine.com forums there is a legitimate human manual for VP drives, Ricardo Marine. He's given me great advice and I'm sure he would steer you well if you run into trouble. I believe he has every Volvo shop manual tattooed on the inside of his eyelids.

 

[daddystoy]

https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7744470-44-7642.aspx

First off, full disclosure! I'm not a marine mechanic, heck I'm not any kind of a mechanic and I'm certainly not a Volvo expert! But... I do own a 270 Volvo Penta outdrive that I have taken apart twice now.
1st time was with a marine mechanic buddy and the 2nd time was by myself.
Remove drive from boat and set in some sort of holding device. I used sawhorses with 2x10 planks and then a couple pieces of plywood across the flat thingy ma jiggy part to hold every thing steady
Yes, take those 4 bolts out part #16. You might have to take a rubber mallet and tap on #12 the bearing box (double bearing box). There will be very thin shims behind it, # 19 make sure you dont lose these. They obviously need to go back in.
Remove # 30 screw. I believe your manual should say that this screw should be replaced with a new screw.
Now you can remove the u-joint/drive to work on it much easier.
Re and re the c-clips, needle bearings, spiders etc.
There is a seal in there #20 that you may want to change while you are in there
Obviously you need new O-rings. Grease or oil before installing these. Sorry for stating the obvious
Put everything back together slowly and methodically. Follow instructions in manual carefully and everything should be fine.
Follow good mechanical procedures. I.E . clean all threads carefully. Chase all bolt holes with a thread chaser and lubricate with oil and blow out with compressed air. Keep work area clean. You know all the common sense stuff.
DON'T RUSH!
Don't be an animal and start beating on things. Bad idea. These are finely machined parts you are working with.
There should be no need to be checking any rolling torque. I think you are misunderstanding something
Not sure what crush bushing you are talking about. Again I think you are misreading something.
Replace the U-joint bellows while you are at it.

Good luck!

 

[daddystoy]

After researching further I did see some instructions on checking rolling torque and crush bushing!
That's something new to me that I don't remember doing on my 270.
I did say I'm no marine mechanic!

 

[Kilwinning]

Ricardo, that Cracked ribs refers too suggests using heat to each of the four screws before trying to remove them from the bearing box.

 

[Captain PartyMarty]

Thanks Guys for all the input. There seems to be so many opinions out there on how to it. My plan is to try without disassembly of the upper gear using a custom pressing jig sounds like people are successful, if not I will likely do the full job properly reseal and reset the rolling torque by following the shop manual. I will let you know how it goes!

 

[Captain PartyMarty]

Update:

Top Drive is off and mostly taken apart was expecting some of the bolts to put up more of fight but everything went smoothly. I did find some gear oil in bellows so I am planning on replacing the shaft seals. Second u-joint is definitely the cause of the vibration I can only move it a few degrees while the other joints are easy to manipulate. Hoping to have it all back together tomorrow if I figure out the rolling torque crush Sleeve thing!

On another note, I want to remove my props on this drive, seems Volvo has a special tool kit for this which cost 180 bucks do I really need this to remove the props?

 

[Captain PartyMarty]

Oh and another point to note, I can't believe how expensive Volvo parts are its crazy.....

 

[wolf]

No big butt wrench and pull top prop off then u will see a retaining clip with tabs bent over on to a spindle nut pull tabs straight then use big water clamp pliers to get spindle nut off easy really. too bad man as i had a TON of parts for them drives if and when you see parts buy them as they are getting harder and harder to find

 

[Captain PartyMarty]

Job is drive is back together. Was pretty easy once I made all the tools to push out the bearings. The props on the other hand where a huge pain. Locking bolt broke of on the front prop, lucky I had the tools to drill and broken shaft and use a bolt remover to get it out. The back nut was also a pain but did manage to get off once I soaked it in penetrating oil!