Transducer location question

Samson

New Member
Finally about to install my new fishfinder (Elite 7 Ti2 HDI) and transducer. My boat is an Alumaweld Blackhawk so it has the extended transom (Alumadrive?).

I've read lots of tips and tricks about transducer placement to avoid prop wash, about install height, about avoiding areas of turbulence etc. The old transducer was installed directly behind one of the strakes, which might have been why it never worked properly. I'm thinking of moving the new transducer about 6" further to the starboard side to an area of the transom that should have cleaner water. My question is this: is it a bad thing to have the transducer mounted too far to the starboard side? Perhaps the further to the right it is located the more any side-to-side pitching of the boat will be exaggerated but I'm not sure if that is actually an issue. I do plan to install a long HDP mounting plate so that I can easily move it in case I don't get it right the first time.
 
I'll show you a few pictures on my current boats and one of my old boat. Both of my aluminums are mounted more to the center of the hull and my new boat is almost at the bottom of the V on a pod between twins with zero issue. My old Striper was much more to the right and mounted on the flat chine area and it too worked well there. The only thing to keep in mind is you loose a bit of safety factor in shallow water if that's a concern because it is higher out of the water there. Not an issue if you don't get into a skinny water situation beaching or low tides etc....IMO
 

Attachments

  • NewTrans.jpg
    NewTrans.jpg
    368.1 KB · Views: 116
  • pic1.jpg
    pic1.jpg
    385.7 KB · Views: 115
  • Trans2.jpg
    Trans2.jpg
    715 KB · Views: 116
Last edited:
I'll show you a few pictures on my current boats and one of my old boat. Both of my aluminums are mounted more to the center of the hull and my new boat is almost at the bottom of the V on a pod between twins with zero issue. My old Striper was much more to the right and mounted on the flat chine area and it too worked well there. The only thing to keep in mind is you loose a bit of safety factor in shallow water if that's a concern because it is higher out of the water there. Not an issue if you don't get into a skinny water situation beaching or low tides etc....IMO
Thanks ReelSlim!
 
Perhaps the further to the right it is located the more any side-to-side pitching of the boat will be exaggerated but I'm not sure if that is actually an issue
When the above happens the angle of the transducer in relation to the bottom will be the same wherever it is mounted on the stern; should be fine. It is pretty hard to find a "perfect" location.
 
I have a TI5 that came from my old boat to my new Silver Streak. The new boat came with a Raymarine Element that had the transducer on a bracket on the strabord side just where the transom meets the pod (my pod extends the hull) I used epoxy to glue on a plastic board to the right of the bracket (like a transom saver) as I didn't want to pierce the hull. I moved the Element transducer to the right (as it is only a small CHRIP) and then attached the larger totalscan Lowrance TI5 transducer the plate. I made sure that the port side of the long transducer was low enough that it would be able to read down the angle of the pod next to it. I get very clear images and it actually reads sidescan and bottom at speed. I think not putting it at the back of the pod protects it from turbulence from my prop and being 2ft ahead of the back of the pod in a side cutout keeps it in calm water even when i'm running fast. TI5 is mounted at the back by the port down rigger. I thine WIFI my screen to a 10 inch tablet that sits to the right of the Raymarine Element. I use the element as my chart plotter/Chirp sonar view while the tablet is showing the Ti5 screen split with downview/fish reveal on half and side scan on the other half of the display. Having the TI5 at the back by the downriggers is great so I can always see what the depth/fish marks are even if I'm working the back riggers.
 
Install a ~4"x18" piece of UHMW plastic on the transom approx where you want to place your transducer so you can move the transducer around without drilling into you hull. Avoid stakes, the prop and exhaust for clean readings. Mount the ducer face slightly lower (i.e. 1/4") than the hull so the ducer is exposed to "clean" water. If you have the option of several frequency settings, CHIRP is going to give best readings on plane.
 
2nd the gluing plastic to transom then attaching transducer. I used to glass a mounting block to the back of my past boats for that exact reason saving holes in transom. Now I have a transducer that is mounted inside hull transmitting through the boat which is sweet, no growth and it can't get hit by anything. Quite a few units you can adjust the angle via your display by degrees as well to fine tune if the mounting angle is slightly off.
 
some of the mounting brackets for the newer large dual chirp transducer can create quite a rooster tail. can be solved by closing the gap in with tape ( cheesy but works ) or a big massive knob of silicone
 
A bit off topic...

I am thinking of adding a second transducer (transom mount).

What material alternatives are there for a mounting block to screw in the transducer(s) which I would put on the transom with 5200.

I am aware of starboard (and use heat to allow the adhesive to work).

Any other suitable materials to consider as an alternative?

Any tips for having the mounting block fabrication (size / shape, etc)?
 
A bit off topic...

I am thinking of adding a second transducer (transom mount).

What material alternatives are there for a mounting block to screw in the transducer(s) which I would put on the transom with 5200.

I am aware of starboard (and use heat to allow the adhesive to work).

Any other suitable materials to consider as an alternative?

Any tips for having the mounting block fabrication (size / shape, etc)?
This is what I used for my transducer when I upgraded my sounder recently http://sternsaver.com/ Works great and a complete kit with everything you need to do the job.I beleive I purchased it on the U.S. Amazon site and it was around $50-$60 can. shipped.Check it out!
 
Yes,it's a convieience thing,but in my case where I live in the Cowichan Valley,there was no one in town that had small pieces available,so would have meant travelling to Victoria to Industrial plastic and paints,paying $20.00 plus tax for a precut 4"x5" lousy piece of starboard,then buying a 5 min. epoxy kit to glue it on,plus the fuel and time = no substansial savings whatsoever.I personally have no regrets about the purchase,but to each their own:)
 
Back
Top