Trailer Brakes

Oglthorpe

Active Member
Hey guys, I need buy a new brake system for my tandem axle trailer. Still deciding between drum or disc, but that's a whole different discussion.

I plan on installing myself. My question, is there local shop with good prices between Duncan and Parksville you would recommend? Or is there a good website to order from to save some money?
 
Go disc for sure and what ever you do don’t go with a surge brake system. Causes excess wear on the brakes and run wheel bearings out of grease. I am in the process of switching to a electric over hydraulic system. Recently ordered a system from Shadow Industries in CA. Best prices I could find. If you want more info pm me. Good luck..
 
I would never want to dip some drum brakes into the salt... Definitely disk and electric would be best
 
Go disc for sure and what ever you do don’t go with a surge brake system. Causes excess wear on the brakes and run wheel bearings out of grease. I am in the process of switching to a electric over hydraulic system. Recently ordered a system from Shadow Industries in CA. Best prices I could find. If you want more info pm me. Good luck..
Check your surge connector, if you are using one that was set up for drum brakes it will have a valve in it that keeps pressure to the slave cylinders to keep the pads close to the drums, the disk system does not use that valve, I smoked a set on my trailer in about 3,000 km before I found out about that valve.
 
Thanks guys, ya, I'm leaning towards disc. It was my understanding that I'd need a new actuator for disc as it requires more pressure than the drum surge.
 
I recently replaced disc and surge. I find they still fail as fast as drum and surge in 3 to 5 years. Swapped to full electric just like a rv or Hwy trailer. They are marine coated and cost about double the standard type. Purchased 4 complete sets with new drums, bearing and seals and all new wiring for around 800$. Express custom trailer in parksville. Installed myself, but their rates are good.
Stop at iritex nearby, wholesaler for irrigation and get everything you need for a flush kit for about $30.
Night and day difference, and half the price as the electric over hydraulic unit alone.
Bolted my surge hitch solid, no more clunking works great. I have 4500lb axles and a Grady that is probably pushing trailer capacity when loaded up. Truck brakes barely do anything
 
some info
FAQ - Subject - Solenoid valves used for trailer hydraulic brake systems.
Solenoid valves are used on hydraulic trailer brake systems to lock the brakes out while backing up.

[1] What is the difference between a blocking solenoid and a bleed type solenoid valve?

***Blocking solenoid valves are inline [ normally open valves] that close when 12 VDC is applied.
This locks out the potential for any further brake pressure to be induced into the brake tubing system
while the solenoid is electrically activated.
This type of valve does not require a return line back to the master cylinder reservoir.
One potentially negative feature of this type of valve is that if brake fluid pressure was trapped between
the master cylinder and the wheel brake devices before the electrical activation of the solenoid,
this brake pressure will remain trapped and may inhibit the trailer from being backed up.
******* BLEED SOLENOID valves are typically 3 way [ 3 port] valves. Three way bleed solenoid
Valves allow free passage of brake fluid thru the valve during normal braking operations,
when not electrically activated.
The third port of the valve is connected to a return line back to the master cylinder reservoir.
This port is closed when the valve is not electrically activated.
When electrically activated, this third port opens allowing release of pressure back to the reservoir
& atmospheric pressure [ 0 PSI gage pressure].
Because this bleed valve releases all brake line pressure, it is an excellent choice for applications
where backing uphill are necessary. However, it does require a return port machined in the
master cylinder reservoir.
****** 2 way bleed SOV - It is possible to install a 2 way normally closed valve into the system
by installing a TEE in the brake line tubing & using one port of the SOV to connect to the
return line back to the reservoir. Again when electrically activated this valve opens & pressure
is released.
If the master cylinder in your
brake coupler is made from a composite
material & is not metal then you will need
to provide a ground wire connection
directly to the brass body of the solenoid valve.

Solenoid valves do not operate well
if there is a poor ground or a poor
connection of the 12VDC power to the
valve.
Champion Trailers* cannot control the user's application of the
information contained herein, & is not responsible for the user's
application of that information.
It is the responsibility of the user to determine the applicability of the
information contained herein, as it applies to his trailer or system.
All Technical information & Specifications
Contained herein are the property of
Champion Trailers* & may not be
reproduced with out specific written
permission.

www.championtrailers.com


CHAMPION TRAILER
PARTS SUPPLY
1-800-229-6690
FAX: 1-800-359-8169 ORDER FORM
56705 I-10 SERVICE RD SLIDELL, LA. 70458

FREE CATALOG
.PDF DOWNLOAD
HOW TO PLACE
YOUR ORDER

REVERSING SOLINOID VALVES
REVERSING SOLENOID FAQ
BLOCKING SOLENOID VALVE
12 VDC - IN-LINE - NORMALLY OPEN SOLENOID VALVE.
CLOSES WHEN ACTIVATED
pict1.jpg

PART# 1507 WT .5# PRICE EA. $49.95
pict2.jpg


  • THE MALE THREAD ON THE BLOCKING SOLENOID IS 1/8" M.P.T (MALE PIPE
    THREAD). THIS IS A TAPERED THREAD.
  • INSTALL TEFLON TAPE ON MALE PART OF THIS THREAD.
  • THE FEMALE THREAD IS 3/16" I.F. (INVERTED FLARE). THIS IS THE THREAD OF
    STANDARD AUTOMOTIVE BRAKE LINE TUBING, AS WELL AS CHAMPION TRAILER'S
    STAINLESS BRAKE LINE TUBING.
  • 3/16" BRAKE LINE TUBING OR MALE BRAKE HOSE THREADS WILL SCREW

    DIRECTLY INTO THE FEMALE THREAD OF THE BLOCKING SOLENOID VALVE.
  • 3/16" I.F. THREADS SEAL AT THE FLARE JOINT AND DO NOT REQUIRE TEFLON TAPE
    AS THREAD SEALANT
  • THE SINGLE WIRE COMING FROM THE BLOCKING SOLENOID NORMALLY
    CONNECTS VIA A PLUG TO THE TOW VEHICLE'S "WHITE" BACK-UP LIGHTS. WHEN
    THE TOW VEHICLE IS PUT INTO REVERSE THE BACK-UP (WHITE) LIGHTS COME ON
    AND THE SOLENOID VALVE IS ACTIVATED BLOCKING FLUID PRESSURE FROM
    BEING APPLIED TO THE BRAKES.
  • BE SURE THAT THE [WHITE] BACK UP LIGHTS DO NOT COME ON IN ANY OTHER
    GEAR OTHER THAN REVERSE. IF THEY DO, THE BRAKES WILL BE DISABLED IN
    THAT CONDITION.
  • BLOCKING SOLENOID VALVES ARE VERY EFFECTIVE AND ARE USED ON MANY
    DISC BRAKE APPLICATIONS, HOWEVER IF YOU ATTEMPT TO BACK UP, IN AN
    UPHILL CONFIGURATION, IT MAY OCCUR THAT YOU WILL HAVE A PARTIAL
    ACTIVATION OF THE SURGE BRAKE COUPLER DUE TO THE COMPRESSIVE
    FORCES BEING APPLIED BETWEEN THE TOW VEHICLE AND THE TRAILER, PRIOR
    TO BACKING UP. THIS MAY DRASTICALLY IMPEDE YOUR ABILITY TO BACK UP THE
    HILL.

    IF THIS OCCURS YOU MAY WANT TO CONVERT YOUR REVERSING SOLENOID TO A
    BLEED TYPE SOLENOID VALVE. WITH A BLEED TYPE SOLENOID VALVE, WHENEVER
    THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, ALL FLUID PRESSURE IN THE SYSTEM IS DUMPED
    BACK TO THE RESERVOIR. THIS IS THE PREFERRED SOLENOID VALVE IF BACKING
    UPHILL IS ONE OF YOUR TOWING CONSIDERATIONS.

    HOWEVER, THE BLEED TYPE SOLENOID [PART # 1504] REQUIRES THAT A RETURN
    LINE BE INSTALLED BACK TO THE BRAKE COUPLER MASTER CYLINDER
    RESERVOIR.


    WHEN USING A BLEED TYPE SOLENOID VALVE, IF THE MASTER CYLINDER IS NOT
    EQUIPPED WITH A RETURN PORT MACHINED INTO IT, IT WILL BE NECESSARY TO
    DRILL AND TAP A 1/8" NPT RETURN PORT HOLE IN THE LOWER HALF OF THE
    MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR.
    BE SURE TO KEEP METAL SHAVINGS OUT OF THE MASTER CYLINDER UPON
    COMPLETION OF THE MACHINING OPERATION.
BLEED SOLENOID VALVE KIT
pict3.jpg

PART # 1504 WT 1# PRICE EA. $54.95
pict4.jpg
PRINTABLE SOLENOID INSTALLATION DRAWING

PART # 1504 - REVERSING SOLENOID VALVE OPERATION:

PART # 1504 IS A 3 PORT (BLEED UPON ACTIVATION) SOLENOID VALVE. IT HAS A 1/8" NPT
(NATIONAL PIPE THREAD) FOR THE (IN) PORT WHICH HAS A STAINLESS SCREEN
INTERNAL TO THAT PORT. THIS IS THE PORT THAT IS CONNECTED TO THE HYDRAULIC
OUTPUT PORT FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER OF THE BRAKE COUPLER.

DIRECTLY OPPOSITE FROM THE (IN) PORT ON THE SOLENOID VALVE, IS THE PORT THAT
IS CONNECTED TO THE BRAKE LINE TUBING GOING TO THE TRAILER BRAKES.

THIS PORT HAS 3/16" (I.F. - INVERTED FLARE) THREADS, WHICH IS THE THREAD FOR
THE STANDARD BRAKE LINE TUBING, AND BRAKE HOSES. DO NOT INSTALL TEFLON
TAPE ON THREADS FOR 3/16" I.F. FITTINGS!THEY ARE SELF SEALING.

THE THIRD PORT HAS 1/8" NPT THREADS AND HAS A 90° BRASS BARB FITTING
INSTALLED. THIS FITTING IS WHERE THE RETURN LINE RUBBER HOSE IS CONNECTED
FOR ROUTING BACK TO THE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR.

IF YOUR MASTER CYLINDER DOES NOT HAVE A RETURN PORT MACHINED INTO THE
MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR, YOU WILL NED TO DRILL AND TAP A 1/8" MPT HOLE
INTO THE LOWER HALF THE REAR OF THE RESERVOIR. BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET
METAL SHAVING IN THE MASTER CYLINDER DURING THE MACHINING PROCESS.

THE (IN) PORT OF THE SOLENOID IS COMMON TO THE PORT WITH THE 3/16" I.F.
THREADS, GOING TO THE TRAILER BRAKES. WHEN THE SOLENOID IS NOT
ELECTRICALLY ACTIVATED BRAKE FLUID FLOWS IN AND OUT THRU THESE PORTS,
DIRECTLY TO THE TRAILER BRAKES. WHEN THE SOLENOID IS NOT ELECRICALLY
ACTIVATED, THE RETURN PORT (GOING BACK TO THE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR)
IS CLOSED (NOT OPEN TO THE BREAKE SYSTEM.
WHEN THE SOLENOID VALVE IS ELECTRICALLY ACTIVATED, THE RETURN PORT OPENS,
(BECOMES COMMON TO THE BRAKE SYSTEM PRESSURE). THIS ALLOWS ANY AND ALL
BRAKE SYSTEM PRESSURE TO BE RELEASED BACK TO THE MASTER CYLINDER
RESERVOIR VIA THE RETURN LINE HOSE.

ELECTRICAL ACTIVATION OF THE SOLENOID IS TYPICALLY ACCOMPLISHED BY
CONNECTING THE VALVE ELECTRICAL WIRE VIA A PLUG INTO THE TOW VEHICLE
BACK-UP LIGHTS. WHEN THE TOW VEHICLE IS PUT INTO REVERSE, THE SOLENOID IS
ACTIVATED AND THE TRAILER BRAKES ARE DISABLED.

BE SURE THAT THE BACK-UP LIGHTS DO NOT COME ON IN ANY GEAR OTHER THAN
REVERSE. IF THE BACK-UP LIGHTS COME ON IN ANY OTHER DRIVING CONDITION THE
BRAKES WILL BE DISABLED DURING THAT CONDITION.


THE BLEED SOLENOID IS THE PREFERRED BRAKE LOCK OUT SOLENOID VALVE IF YOU
ARE FINDING IT NECESSARY TO DO BACKING UP OPERATIONS IN AN UPHILL MODE.

IF YOU TOW ONLY IN FLAT LAND DRIVING AND BACKING-UP CONDITIONS THE
BLOCKING SOLENOID [PART # 1507] MAY FULFILL YOUR BRAKE LOCKOUT NEEDS. WITH
THE BLOCKING SOLENOID (PART #1507) IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO HAVE A RETURN LINE
BACK TO THE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR, HOWEVER IF BACKING UPHILL THE
BLOCKING SOLENOID MAY CAUSE DIFFICULTY.
 
I recently replaced disc and surge. I find they still fail as fast as drum and surge in 3 to 5 years. Swapped to full electric just like a rv or Hwy trailer. They are marine coated and cost about double the standard type. Purchased 4 complete sets with new drums, bearing and seals and all new wiring for around 800$. Express custom trailer in parksville. Installed myself, but their rates are good.
Stop at iritex nearby, wholesaler for irrigation and get everything you need for a flush kit for about $30.
Night and day difference, and half the price as the electric over hydraulic unit alone.
Bolted my surge hitch solid, no more clunking works great. I have 4500lb axles and a Grady that is probably pushing trailer capacity when loaded up. Truck brakes barely do anything
Hey Njord , how long ago did you switch to electric? Did you have to do anything special to the actuators? Coat them with dielectric grease etc. Do you recal the manufacturer? Do you know someone who had success with it?
 
Hey Njord , how long ago did you switch to electric? Did you have to do anything special to the actuators? Coat them with dielectric grease etc. Do you recal the manufacturer? Do you know someone who had success with it?
I switched in February. No issues to date, trailer gets dunked every couple weeks and I don't always get to flush afterwards or each time.
No special coatings or grease on actuator, just bolt on assembled backing plate, run a wire for power, ground to frame.
Not sure on manufacturer, they are stacked on the shelf at the trailer shop, not boxed up. My guess is they are offshore but what isnt these days.
Parts guy said they have been installing dozens for about 3-4 years now and nobody has come back yet with complaints or to replace.
I'm happy, wish I had tried them years ago.
 
Still good. Had a couple minor issues. Broken wire on one wheel, one set seemed to hang up a bit. Disassembled, cleaned, repacked bearings, good to go. Annual maintaince really.
Trailer sits for about 3weeks at a time now, (work is the worst). Couple shots of grease and I confidently drag it to hardy/winter harbour from parksville 3 times since April no issues, and locally/alberni another whack of times.
 
Put a set of Kodak disc brakes on a few years ago , love them , stainless steel calipers , just put a new set of disc pads on this year , hub and rotor still look good , got from e-trailer
 
Back
Top