trailer advice wanted

dmurph

Well-Known Member
Looking for opinions on trailer options. Now that I’m on the island, I won’t be mooring the boat and will be trailering full time. I have replaced the rims and tires, hub assemblies, callipers, pads, brake lines and tongue actuator with in the last year and a half. Not real happy with the braking, seems like they pretty much do nothing, tried bleeding a few times and seemed like I got it right when I first put it together. Maybe it needs a power bleed.

Thinking I would like to go to electric over hydraulic, plus add side bunk guides. Question is would you guys sell and get a trailer set up with what I want or spend the money to upgrade trailer. Is it possible to buy just a electric hydraulic actuator that would work with my same titian disk brakes and lines? Any feedback would be appreciated
 
Also I followed all instructions and info I could find when assembled, packed the hubs as much as possible with grease and then just a little pumped into the bearing buddies. Had no grease come out the inner seal when first put together, but after a couple runs had grease come out the seal, used good double lip
 
Looking for opinions on trailer options. Now that I’m on the island, I won’t be mooring the boat and will be trailering full time. I have replaced the rims and tires, hub assemblies, callipers, pads, brake lines and tongue actuator with in the last year and a half. Not real happy with the braking, seems like they pretty much do nothing, tried bleeding a few times and seemed like I got it right when I first put it together. Maybe it needs a power bleed.

Thinking I would like to go to electric over hydraulic, plus add side bunk guides. Question is would you guys sell and get a trailer set up with what I want or spend the money to upgrade trailer. Is it possible to buy just a electric hydraulic actuator that would work with my same titian disk brakes and lines? Any feedback would be appreciated

I converted my trailer from surge, to electric over hydraulic myself. It was not a difficult job, done in my driveway in a day.

The most difficult part was to find a new hitch that fit the existing holes on my trailer, as I was trying not to drill new ones.

You need to purchase the proper actuator whether for disc or drum brakes as the pressures are different. After the changeover the braking was like night and day. I'll never go back, when the controller is set right, it is like having nothing behind you on my rig.
 
I converted my trailer from surge, to electric over hydraulic myself. It was not a difficult job, done in my driveway in a day.

The most difficult part was to find a new hitch that fit the existing holes on my trailer, as I was trying not to drill new ones.

You need to purchase the proper actuator whether for disc or drum brakes as the pressures are different. After the changeover the braking was like night and day. I'll never go back, when the controller is set right, it is like having nothing behind you on my rig.

Yes I have a toy hauler trailer which I used for my move over to the island, it had electric brakes and after towing it, it seems ignorant to use surge brakes lol. So your saying I would just need a new electric over hydraulic actuator, everything else stays the same?
 
You will need electric over hydraulic actuator, with emergency battery, new wiring from actuator forward to plug. As well a new hitch, or a way to make your surge hitch solid. You may need some sort of fitting or hose to connect your current hydraulics into the actuator depending on trailer configuration. Mine plugged right in.
 
You will need electric over hydraulic actuator, with emergency battery, new wiring from actuator forward to plug. As well a new hitch, or a way to make your surge hitch solid. You may need some sort of fitting or hose to connect your current hydraulics into the actuator depending on trailer configuration. Mine plugged right in.


Ah ya I guess my current hitch/ actuator won’t work as it’ll bang or be sloppy with out the brake fluid going to it?
 
I checked the titian kits are going to be a good 1000 usd by the time it’s said and done
 
I checked the titian kits are going to be a good 1000 usd by the time it’s said and done
I would steer clear of the Titan elec/hydraulic units. I they require an additional module if I remember correctly and some of the reviews I got from the local trailer places weren’t very good. Hydrastar makes a nice unit. Make sure you purchase the 1600psi actuator for disk brakes. You can bolt-closed your existing actuator as well.
 
I would steer clear of the Titan elec/hydraulic units. I they require an additional module if I remember correctly and some of the reviews I got from the local trailer places weren’t very good. Hydrastar makes a nice unit. Make sure you purchase the 1600psi actuator for disk brakes. You can bolt-closed your existing actuator as well.

Ok good to know, I have titian disk brakes so that’s why I was thinking titian, wonder if titian brakes in general suck, cause my system doesn’t seem to work that great. Sounds like you need an extra something for the brake controllers for gm and ford trucks which seems crazy that the brake controller don’t work for the 2 most popular truck manufacturers
 
Ok good to know, I have titian disk brakes so that’s why I was thinking titian, wonder if titian brakes in general suck, cause my system doesn’t seem to work that great. Sounds like you need an extra something for the brake controllers for gm and ford trucks which seems crazy that the brake controller don’t work for the 2 most popular truck manufacturers

I just looked it up, it’s called an SD module, retail is 290USD if it craps out. If you’re looking for a long lasting set of disks, kodiak stainless calipers with the dacromemt coated rotors are the way to go. There was a thread on here last year about them. Did you upgrade your surge tongue to a disk brake application? If it’s not working properly, maybe you have a lower PSI actuator that is not meant for disks. 1000, 1200 PSI are for drum brake applications, 1600PSI for disk. You can use any brand actuator with your existing disks.
 
Hi murph I just went through the same process with our trailer Surge over 6160 LBS is illegal in BC, so I upgraded to the 1200 psi actuator for drum brakes, the unit you will need is below.
Buy the whole Kit with the battery and harness it's cheaper in the long run.
I bought it from e-trailer online very reasonable.
Kept the same coupler and reconnected the brake line to the hydrastar you will need the 1600 psi for disc. brakes . I had to buy a new controller for the truck as well
Mike

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there are different options based on the truck you have so it's best and call for the correct part numbers..

a simple lock out device some are magnetic let's you use the coupler locked out.
 

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Ok thanks for that. Is it a whole new controller or some adapter that lets you use the factory controler?
 
Also looks like you have same trailer, 4 bunks that swivel? If so wonder what stetting height wise your bunks are, mine are adjustable with a few different hole options and I’m thinking I could lower all mine to have to boat sit a bit lower
 
Its an Electrical/Hyd. brake master cylinder ( replacement ) pump mounted on the trailer to replace the brake pressure delivered from the surge brake actuator sliding (coupler) .
Uses electric current from the truck/brake pedal /controller when you stomp on the pedal, electric pump activates the brakes in milli. seconds
The lock out tab is just a chunk of steel to keep the hitch from moving back and forth some guys put a bolt through the slide and use the same Coupler/hitch which you don't have to change .
Your truck dictates the part number E/H unit you need 1600 PSI is for disc. brakes the kit comes with a harness and breakaway battery kit and parts you need, put mine together in an afternoon.

My front bunks were factory set 2 holes Too high , put too much weight on the front axle , stress on the hull .
Which made it harder to unload/ load with a ramp angle stern would come free but the hull on the front bunks still had heavy contact now it floats off almost at the same time.
I also moved the axle forward about 8- 10 " to get the tongue weight right 450-475 lbs from 750 on the ball way better at 6% than 10%
Loading guides really helped I drive it straight on
 
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Towed it from P.E.I. to Nootka Sound in the same year nice drive roughly 7700 km. LoL
 
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Its an Electrical/Hyd. brake master cylinder ( replacement ) pump mounted on the trailer to replace the brake pressure delivered from the surge brake actuator sliding (coupler) .
Uses electric current from the truck/brake pedal /controller when you stomp on the pedal, electric pump activates the brakes in milli. seconds
The lock out tab is just a chunk of steel to keep the hitch from moving back and forth some guys put a bolt through the slide and use the same Coupler/hitch which you don't have to change .
Your truck dictates the part number E/H unit you need 1600 PSI is for disc. brakes the kit comes with a harness and breakaway battery kit and parts you need, put mine together in an afternoon.

My front bunks were factory set 2 holes Too high , put too much weight on the front axle , stress on the hull .
Which made it harder to unload/ load with a ramp angle stern would come free but the hull on the front bunks still had heavy contact now it floats off almost at the same time.
I also moved the axle forward about 8- 10 " to get the tongue weight right 450-475 lbs from 750 on the ball way better at 6% than 10%
Loading guides really helped I drive it straight on

Hey Mike, that’s interesting that you mention 6% was better than %10. From all my research and advice given to me, I was under the impression that 10% was the minimum for safe towing operation. Have you had any sway issues with only 6%? I’m hoping to reduce the tongue weight as I plan to tow the boat with a 41” hitch extension/weight distribution, behind the truck and camper. The new boat and trailer is around 7500lbs and that is exactly what I am rated to tow with that extension/weight distribution setup. Unfortunately the Arctic Fox camper we have is a beast and I’m just about over my payload, even with no water in the unit. A reduction in toungue weight to 6% would have me laughing...
 
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