To winterize or NOT to winterize.

Discussion in 'Boats, Motors, Trailers and Towing Rigs Forum' started by Elton "Roy" Hyland, Nov 16, 2017.

  1. I had a guy at Cabelas tell me not to winterize as it was mostly just a way for shops to make money. I've also had folks tel me to make sure to winterize. One year, I drained the oils aand fogged the cylinders myself on my Merc 60. That was no problem. To have it done "professionally" on my 200HP & 9.9 Yamaha is pricey. SO.... YES OR NO? I have 80 gallons on non-eth fuel in the tank so that should limit to moisture to a degree. Your thoughts?
  2. fish brain

    fish brain Active Member

    If its going to sit I would add fuel stabilizer regardless of whether it has ethanol in it and drain the carbs at the very least. doing it on your 200 vs your 60 shouldn't be any harder. it's not rocket surgery
    Tugcapitan likes this.
  3. Add a good stabilizer, run both motors to get stabilizer through the fuel systems, run the 9.9 out of fuel and drain carb, if it’s easy to drain the vapor seperator on the 200 do that too, check both legs oils and make sure they are free from water, I would also blow air through the telltale of the big motor if it’s a 4 stroke just to clear out the cool
    Fuel as sometimes it doesn’t drain, I go the extra distance with mine and run rv antifreeze through both of my motors never had an issue
  4. bigdogg1

    bigdogg1 Active Member

    Not sure where the 'guy from Cabela's' received his marine engine degree, but winterizing is a must, whether you DIY or have it done. The damage done by stale gas or worse is hardly worth the savings of not doing it. Advice here has been great and if you are unsure, have the 'professional' go through what they did (or will do).
  5. pescador

    pescador Well-Known Member

    One thing I’ve been told by a very experienced wrench is that you don’t need to top up your tanks at season end. A good stabilizer is all you need in whatever fuel is in your tanks. For years I filled my tanks each November and it sat until the following season. I stopped doing that 2 years ago with no issue.
  6. noluck

    noluck Active Member

    the only reason to fill the tank is to limit the condensation that forms on the tank walls, especially aluminum tanks
  7. Whole in the Water

    Whole in the Water Well-Known Member

    What about water condensation issue in less than full fuel tanks? I thought the more empty space in the gas tank, over time water can condense and spoil the fuel. This is more of a problem with aluminum tanks then plastic ones as aluminum "sweats" with air temp and humidity changes. I have always filled my tank up, added good fuel stabilizer and add some methyl hydrate with the fuel stabilizer and add some more when I start up the engines again after winter storage to deal with the water that may have condensed in the tank. This has always worked for me.
  8. OK I filled the tanks with non-ethanol fuel. Last year I added STA-BIL Marine. I do have a can of SEAFOAM! Has anyone used this? My neighbor used it all the time.
  9. NOTE: His tank wasn't aluminum like mine
  10. bigdogeh

    bigdogeh Well-Known Member

    May be less of an issue with a plastic or composite tank. Or with diesel filled tanks. But myself, I would still keep them topped up with a fuel stabilizer through the winter months regardless...
  11. casper5280

    casper5280 Well-Known Member

    I think the real trick to this is to make sure the fuel with the Stal in it is to run it though the whole system. I always try to run a tank full the system before I store the boat for the season, or be a real man and fish all year long and never worry about it. Lol
  12. profisher

    profisher Well-Known Member

    I prefer to add stabil and then start and warm up both motors once a month. If they won't run for any reaso I want to knoow sooner than just before the start of the season.
    trophywife likes this.
  13. I hadn't thought of that so great idea.
  14. I personally LOVE getting to the dock and having my stuff take a crap. LOL
  15. fishizzle

    fishizzle Member

    I use Seafoam at the end of every season...pour in the full can and run the motors to circulate it... that's it... no need to measure
  16. agentaqua

    agentaqua Well-Known Member

    Sounds like your Cabela's guy is used to life in the banana belt. I find winterization needs depend upon length of time out of season - and expected winter conditions. In the "banana belt" of SouthWestern BC - esp SVI & Lower Mainland - winter is kinder. Maybe there is no ice in the river, even. Maybe the extreme cold common in the rest of the Province and the rest of Canada - might be easier on your batteries and electrical starting systems.

    However, it is always a good idea to winterize - and it shouldn't cost much neither.

    Add some gas stabilizer to the gas as you fill it up before storage. Make sure there is some in the gas lines by running for a few minutes after gas stab is added. Take out the plugs and squirt a little oil in the plug holes and turn over the engine a couple times and put the plugs back in. Take out the batteries and store away w a trickle charge. Maybe tarp over the boat. That's it. Costs almost nothing to do it.

    My advise: do it. You are almost always longer than you tell yourself you are going to be when you put a boat away for a while.
  17. profisher

    profisher Well-Known Member

    Case in point. I just fired up both engines to give them a run, been a month since I brought the bat home. I had changed out both water pump impellers, changed gear oil etc a few weeks ago during the late Oct sunny weather. No water pumping from the 9.9 Yami. Pulled off the leg and the end of water pick up tube has rotted away enough that it doesn't mate into the top of the pump anymore. So I have to get a short piece of copper tubing and some rubber hose to make it work again. I have a charter booked next weekend and it would have sucked to find out at the dock on the morning of.
    Elton "Roy" Hyland likes this.
  18. ab1752

    ab1752 Member

    Also don't overlook through hulls...the fitting itself is fine but the low quality valve is clearly failing and if neglected much longer it could have been a real issue.

    Attached Files:

  19. I have the large brass fitting type plug that I wrap Teflon tape around. Makes it easier to pull out. The smaller "T" type plugs I use for the live wells.

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