Switching to an Anchor Ring from Anchor Lift

Discussion in 'Saltwater Fishing Forum' started by fshnfnatic, Apr 4, 2019.

  1. fshnfnatic

    fshnfnatic Well-Known Member

    Hey guys.Been anchoring for Halibut for many years now with the standard anchor lift that retrieves in one direction only and have decided to switch to the simpler ring system so I can add extra sections if in deeper waters,or remove sections for shallower depths.My question is when using the ring system does the buoy have a habit of working its way up the rode too close to the bow and if so what can you do to prevent this from happening.I've never had the opportunity to see this style in action and am wondering what you guys do.It's a non issue with the other style as it only slides one direction which is handy but the con is you cant add sections to it.Thanks for any help you can give me!
     
  2. casper5280

    casper5280 Well-Known Member

    There is a ring on the end of the anchor line the other ring is the same size that slides up/down the anchor line. The rings can't pass though each other.
     

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    Tom Mac likes this.
  3. fshnfnatic

    fshnfnatic Well-Known Member

    I see what you saying casper.So the last section you attach has a ring of equal or greater size and that keeps the buoy from sliding up.Brilliant!!Thank you sir for the explanation.
     
  4. MadJigga

    MadJigga Active Member

    the ring is way better! good choice
     
  5. tubber

    tubber Well-Known Member

    I went to the basement to climb over the piles and take a picture, so I'm going to bloody well send it.
    What casper said.
     

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  6. Tom Mac

    Tom Mac Member

    Crazy! that's my anchor! I posted that picture on a diffrent fishing forum years ago. Do you have the hand drawn diagram of how to set it up, it was in the same post.
     
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  7. casper5280

    casper5280 Well-Known Member

    this one
     

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  8. casper5280

    casper5280 Well-Known Member

    Both rings should be the same size. the other nice thing is the chain goes though the ring and the anchor just sits there.
     
  9. DuroBoat

    DuroBoat Active Member

    Ring system works great for me. Simple and reliable. Splicing and system Built by trotac and a work of art. Anchored off whirl bay tonight for a couple hrs - no hali but what a beautiful night on the water :)
     
  10. fshnfnatic

    fshnfnatic Well-Known Member

    Do you guys use a locking snap hook to connect the buoy to the ring or just a regular snap hook?
     
  11. fshnfnatic

    fshnfnatic Well-Known Member

    The file is too small to see the detail but I think I've figured it out now.
     
  12. casper5280

    casper5280 Well-Known Member

    Harbour-Chandler-Halibut-Anchor-System.jpg
     
  13. halimark

    halimark Well-Known Member

    Never used a ring, Beny showed me 30+ years ago and its always worked. In diagram above change all rings to shackles, remove small rode on ball and replace with a large shackle right on ball. Pass rope thru ball shackle, rope slides to shackle on rope at top but cannot pass thru, ball and shackle slides down to shackle on chain, at anchor end, tape with gun tape 2 stainless welding rods at bottom to hook on shackle. I do not have a pull rope down the side of my boat = dangerous. Rope goes around midship cleat with soft eye then forward and out bow guide. When I have to chase a big fish, unhook center soft eye and drop in water, boat slides back of anchor and an A5 never goes under, its far easier to re-hook to anchor when fish released. Stress when pulling is down boat not on rope sliding down boat. Then of course use an anchor as designed, get a slip ring anchor, no zap straps for safety. Not that cost is much but shackles cost far less than stainless rings, puller thing and other extra ropes. Your welcome to come have a look if in Vic.

    HM
     
  14. Fisherman Rob

    Fisherman Rob Well-Known Member

    Interesting approach. A photo of the rod configuration on the anchor would be helpful. Also what's dangerous about the pull rope down the side?
     
  15. 2xeagle16

    2xeagle16 Active Member

    I use a large roller instead of a ring. The roller has much less friction than the ring has, so you can direct more pulling force to the anchor, and waste less energy dragging you’re float through the water. This probably won’t make much of difference on a large boat, but it is an advantage on a small boat.
     
  16. fshnfnatic

    fshnfnatic Well-Known Member

    Thank you for all your replies so far.Some great information here.What do you think about using quick links instead of shackles to attach the extra 100 ft. lengths of rode?It seems to me that they should probably pass through the rings a little easier than a shackle would.Or maybe I'm just overthinking this thing.
     
  17. Slabbedout

    Slabbedout Member

    I switched to the locking / one way puller simply because I had a couple times where the anchor slipped out of the ring and back down after it was up. More chain and a anchor with longer shaft may have remedied this though.

    I have heard several people comment the bow to stern rope style of tying off and pulling is dangerous. Just curious why they feel it is ? I could see possible chance of swamping / pulling stern under if the anchor got hung up but I was shown to always have something to cut the bow to stern rope and to tie it off at the stern with a slip type knot that you can just pull to undo even under load.
     
  18. halimark

    halimark Well-Known Member

    I have 1 600ft of rode, no knots, links, shackles nothing but smooth rope. The reason is what you said, "probably" pass thru. I have been shit scared anchoring, when I was young and dumb, go out on any tide/current, watched an A4 go straight under and down from bow 80ft when I made a mistake on East Race current, sat on stern for 3 hrs to scared to move as bow was inches above water in a very fast current. Lost a few years that day I think. Sorry if there is any probably I am NOT doing it. I will post pic of the stainless rods tomorrow in daylight. Its so easy/simple I cant believe fishermen pay lots of $$ for the slider things and rings. Benny should have sold the idea 35 years ago when he showed all who wanted to learn. In the early years with no A4,5 balls, we used a 5 gl gas tank. How times have changed.

    I don't like the rope down the boat as I have seen to many boats sideways to the pull. Furthest point away from boat under stress is in middle of boat, not a good place to have current pull from. Its the what ifs, motor dies during pull, wind, current change, beer, marijuana, lack of concentration. All could sink you. Not a dream, lots of boats gone down anchoring for hali in JDF.

    HM
     
  19. profisher

    profisher Well-Known Member

    Use a threaded (locking) carabiner to attach to the scotsman to the ring. I had one of the normal carabiners open up in a stiff SE wind down at Magdelina and had to pull the anchor by hand and then run about 1 mile in the wrong direction to get my scotsman back. Once was enough.
     
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  20. halimark

    halimark Well-Known Member

    Pic as stated. Not sure why 2? image.jpeg image.jpeg Rope on left top is 600 ft I piece no knots to a shackle same size as 1 in pic. All that matters is it cannot pass thru the shackle on bottom of ball. With a full pull, shackle at chain hits ball for visual and wire hooks slide thru, then when slack in line hooks grab shackle and hold anchor under ball. Second wire is a safety for the first. Rope to bow goes on same top end shackle. Absolutely safe, works every time, costs less than all the other stuff people are using, all that's needed is to re tape the wires every couple years. They are stainless welding rod so the 10 I got 30 years ago are still in use.

    HM
     
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