Stopping leaks in old aluminum boat

[searun]

We have an old 16 foot aluminum tub that we got from the scrap yard as a beach boat for our cabin. Its a true POS boat, and not much good which is exactly what we want so no one would dream of stealing old RELIC from our cabin when we are not around. Our only problem is there are a few pin holes and small cracks which leak. We tried hitting it with the wire feed welder, but the metal is so bad it is hard to get a good bead. Rather than take the beater boat back to the scrap yard, we are thinking of trying to paint the inside of the hull with some sort of tar product to stop or slow the leaks.

So my question to the members on the discussion board is can anyone recommend a product that actually works for this type of application? We plan on painting the floor with the sealant and then installing a wood floor over top so the floor once painted will not get any wear.

Thanks in advance for suggestions.

Searun

 

[Fish Assassin]

There is a putty that you can buy for $20 in the boating isle at Cambodian Tire. You knead it togeather then plug the aluminum holes. It is cheaper if I remember right, at Indsutrail Paints and Plastics. It works well but must be cut out before welding ing the future.

 

[Dirtdog67]

Hey Pat, long time... There is a prod that we use over the riv's called secoflex.. It is durable as hell when it comes to abrasion.. Hope it helps.. Dirty

 

[Dogbreath]

quote:Originally posted by Dirtdog67

Hey Pat, long time... There is a prod that we use over the riv's called secoflex.. It is durable as hell when it comes to abrasion..

Sikaflex works great but would be quite pricey to coat the whole inside.

http://www.sika.ca/ind-mar-mar_prod.htm

 

[coholips]

How about a gallon of truck bed liner? Roll or spray on I've read in other forum's its a pretty inexpensive fix..... if you can get the stuff cheap here in Canada.

 

[Cedarstrip]

X2 on the bed-liner. Works pretty good if applied on the inside. Doesn't stay on worth a dang on the outside however. I would use Sikaflex on the larger, worse holes, try to re-peen any loose rivets, and then coat the interior. That's about all you can do.
Then..... keep a bailing bucket handy, cause it's still a riveted aluminum boat and it IS going to leak.[:I]

 

[GLG]

JB-Weld is what you need.
You can cut up small squares of aluminum to create band-aid.
Cover with JB-Weld and apply to the inside as a patch.
Clean and rough up all areas before patching.
GLG

 

[dohboy]

if u know where all the leaks are, use the putty from crappy tire or JB weld, it is quicker than coating the inside, i did this with an old one of mine, stopped all leaks, but u had to know where they all are

 

[Lipripper]

There is a 2 part epoxy paint that works really well.
Paint outside preferably with a breeze [xx(]

 

[Kildonan]

I use Sikaflex on my tinner. It's not a permanent solution, I have to re-do it every 3 years. I clean the area well with a wire wheel on my drill then apply. Allow a couple of days for it to cure properly.

I am hard on my boat when I use it. Dragging over rocks, sand or whatever and the stuff holds up well. It was about 14 bucks/tube last time I bought it.

 

[Kildonan]

I use Sikaflex on my tinner. It's not a permanent solution, I have to re-do it every 3 years. I clean the area well with a wire wheel on my drill then apply. Allow a couple of days for it to cure properly.

I am hard on my boat when I use it. Dragging over rocks, sand or whatever and the stuff holds up well. It was about 14 bucks/tube last time I bought it.

 

[nedarb2]

quote:Originally posted by kildonan

I use Sikaflex on my tinner. It's not a permanent solution, I have to re-do it every 3 years. I clean the area well with a wire wheel on my drill then apply. Allow a couple of days for it to cure properly.

I am hard on my boat when I use it. Dragging over rocks, sand or whatever and the stuff holds up well. It was about 14 bucks/tube last time I bought it.

x2 sikaflex is great! just clean the area really well first, maybe use some paintthinner or something on it too after wirebrushing to really get a good surface.

 

[nedarb2]

quote:Originally posted by kildonan

I use Sikaflex on my tinner. It's not a permanent solution, I have to re-do it every 3 years. I clean the area well with a wire wheel on my drill then apply. Allow a couple of days for it to cure properly.

I am hard on my boat when I use it. Dragging over rocks, sand or whatever and the stuff holds up well. It was about 14 bucks/tube last time I bought it.

x2 sikaflex is great! just clean the area really well first, maybe use some paintthinner or something on it too after wirebrushing to really get a good surface.

 

[Island Fish Lifter]

x3

Fill the dam tub!

 

[Fish Assassin]

Why on certain parts of my boat has Sikaflex broken down and pealed away? I have tubes of it. I would try the puddy and or JB weld first. But thats me.

 

[2muchdraft]

I re-riveted an aluminum a couple years ago. Just the center areas where it leaked - worked excellent - didn't need to use any silicone. Took a couple hours to do.
Got the last rivets I could find all around town, borrowed a rivet head from a steel fab shop that fit into my air hammer gun.
Tough for everyone to do this but is the sure fire solution.

 

[nedarb2]

quote:Originally posted by fishassassin123

Why on certain parts of my boat has Sikaflex broken down and pealed away? I have tubes of it. I would try the puddy and or JB weld first. But thats me.

theres no way it should be breaking down or peeling away..
stupid question but are you using the name brand stuff?

Peeling away would be caused from lack of adhesion, aka. your not cleaning/prepping the surface well enough.

This stuff is made to bond things together below the waterline permanaently.. so you got something weird going on. With that said, it doesnt cure to a flexible state, it doesnt like to move around. So if your putting it on parts that are flexing/moving/getting scraped it may be the cause of failure.

 

[fah cups]

Searun. If your boat is riveted, you can get one more re-set out of them. Wear ear plugs get a two pound hammer and a flat punch. Second guy under the boat with a body dolly. Together you hit and hold. This will usally tighten the loose rivetes. As for pin holes cut some light gauge aluminum to cover holded area silkflex and rivet patch down. Did this to Island Idiots old starcraft awhile ago and worked fine. Good Luck. Cheers FC

 

[finaddict]

Pat,

The only method to fix is rivet repair. Glues, sikaflex, two part epoxys, bedliner cannot work form the inside. The hull pressure exerted when under way will blow through it. Pounding the original rivets is the best, but if they are unreachable from the inside or have corroded away from salt, then get waterproof aluminum blind rivets, drill the rivet hole or pin hole to the correct size and THEN use the sikaflex. There are only a few useful sealants and selants only work if they have mechanical backing (i.e. a rivet) to keep the sealant in place.

Take it from a guy with a 1973 Hewescraft River runner jet boat that still runs skinny water today. I've tried it all. This works.

 

[Fish Assassin]

quote:Originally posted by nedarb2

quote:Originally posted by fishassassin123

Why on certain parts of my boat has Sikaflex broken down and pealed away? I have tubes of it. I would try the puddy and or JB weld first. But thats me.

stupid question but are you using the name brand stuff?

I am buying the brand name stuff. It can be bought in small tubes and or in caulking gun tubs in all sorts of colors. Don't get me wrong I use it all over the place. But it does seem to break down. Has any one tried that aluminum puddy? I hear you can grind it smooth. You just cant weld around or near it do to the chemical reaction. To me its seem like something to use on a small boat. Plus for $12 why not try it.

Cheers,