Start of a electronic's upgrade to the Sculpin

Well I rolled around and even lost sleep over it and just cannot drill a hole in my pod or my hull. I am not going to go against my belief's. I took the through hull transducer back and will work with the existing transducers and modify the bracket for less turbulence etc.

A cool thing I found out was that both existing transducers work (I thought one was shot). When I network my head units I can use one and have the other one just there kind of like an installed back up. One will be hooked up to the HDS10 and the other to the HDS7 but I will only use one of them under normal use. If that one craps out I can just switch it on the network to the other one. Pretty cool me thinks:cool:.

I am going to eliminate one of the paddle wheel speed sensors on the other side of the pod and install the Structure Scan tranducer over there. There is clear water on that side and I only need one paddle wheel now that I am networking.

I am totally new to the networking stuff but it sure makes sense now (had a fellow from the Harbour Chandler come over today and go over the boat and to explain it to me). The other good news is I will be hooking back up my auto pilot (even though it is hooked up to my main engine the kicker is attached to a tie rod and will work just fine) and the compass is compatible to overlay my radar onto my chartplotters.

Whew. Was a great afternoon learning a lot:D.​
 
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Well I rolled around and even lost sleep over it and just cannot drill a hole in my pod or my hull. I am not going to go against my belief's. I took the through hull transducer back and will work with the existing transducers and modify the bracket for less turbulence etc.​

Sculpin, I totally understand why you don't belief in drilling holes in your pod or hull. Have you thought of using a "shoot through the hull" transducer which does not required drilling a hole through the botttom of the hull. My understanding is they can be epoxied to the inside of the hull and as long as they shoot through a solid (no voids or air pockets) that they are apparently as good or better than the transom mounted units. I was thinking of doing that on my B/W Conquest but because the way the whalers are constructed, it would mean cutting through the inner skin and a layer of foam to access the inside of the outer skin on the bottom of the hull. So for now I will stick with the transom mounted ducer. There are quite a few guys south of the 49th that are using this type of transducer.
 
Sculpin, I totally understand why you don't belief in drilling holes in your pod or hull. Have you thought of using a "shoot through the hull" transducer which does not required drilling a hole through the botttom of the hull. My understanding is they can be epoxied to the inside of the hull and as long as they shoot through a solid (no voids or air pockets) that they are apparently as good or better than the transom mounted units. I was thinking of doing that on my B/W Conquest but because the way the whalers are constructed, it would mean cutting through the inner skin and a layer of foam to access the inside of the outer skin on the bottom of the hull. So for now I will stick with the transom mounted ducer. There are quite a few guys south of the 49th that are using this type of transducer.

I own an aluminum boat so a shoot through won't work. Thanks for the input anyways. I have read about them and they do work good in fiberglass boats.
 
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I did pick up the Standard Horizon 2150 VHF as well and was schooled on how it works. I have two head unit's up front so I will run it split on two units just like the 2100. I will have the DCS on one head unit and the AIS on the other. I learned today that when it is hooked up to one single head unit of the HDS 7 or 5 variety the bod rate is compromised and does not work as well but the 10 is ok.

The sh*tty thing is that the rear mic I just installed last summer at the rear steering station is not compatible with Matrix 2150. I am selling off a few things to offset these unexpected cost's.​
 
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I have never understood why people spend thousands on head units and then use the stock transducer. The difference is dramatic from stock to a thru hull or a decent transom mount. I went from stock to a B60 thru hull and never looked back. 2 years ago i wanted a 1kw unit and and installed the TM270. Due to the cost of the 1KW units I went to transom mount as I can remove when I sell and install on the new boat. The best upgrade I feel for any unit is a good transducer. I am sure many people would not buy or upgrade to new head units if they saw the results they could have/get with a good transducer

/fishon
 
hey Sculpin , you have probably already thought of this , but I'll put it out there. I sicoflexed a piece of star board to the transom and mounted my transducer on that . works great and has held for 5 years. The is on glass though. Could you weld on a bracket?

Thanks for taking the time to share your projects , always enjoy seeing them come to life.

beemer
 
I have never understood why people spend thousands on head units and then use the stock transducer. The difference is dramatic from stock to a thru hull or a decent transom mount. I went from stock to a B60 thru hull and never looked back. 2 years ago i wanted a 1kw unit and and installed the TM270. Due to the cost of the 1KW units I went to transom mount as I can remove when I sell and install on the new boat. The best upgrade I feel for any unit is a good transducer. I am sure many people would not buy or upgrade to new head units if they saw the results they could have/get with a good transducer

/fishon

I agree completely and a better transducer is in the works in the future. Maybe next year. I am also learning that not every head unit is the same. Certain units take the information that the transducer gives them and dislpay's it differently or better than others. For now I'm just getting a network started with some half decent stuff and then I can keep working on it from there:).
 
Sculpin,

i am trying a thru hull on my jet boat today, i welded a 5"x5" tab to the trailing edge of the boat(basicly extending the hull), with a 2" hole in the middle for the transducer, i don't want to put a hole in my jet boat either.

i will post results later, i need to shovel the snow out of the boat
 
Well, it works great 40 mph and reads perfect!!!!! i am real happy with the result. Sculpin if you pm me your email i can send you some pics
 
Well, it works great 40 mph and reads perfect!!!!! i am real happy with the result. Sculpin if you pm me your email i can send you some pics
 
Go ahead Sculpin, i might have to chage name to partluck

Ha ha. Here you go noluck.

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Here is a couple more progression shots of this electrical upgrade.

New speaker boxes for the deck area.

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My old speakers mounted under the rail (that don't work anymore).

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The new boxes and speakers will mount where the old ones are now. I'm just holding it up for an example.

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I am reworking the radar mount. Apparently due to the pipe bridge and rocket launchers at the rear of the cabin roof I may have a blind spot behind me (which I don't want). So I am making a new one to raise the dome up enough to clear it. I am basically copying a few I have seen online. This is a prelim shot.

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That trans. mount idea and them speaker boxes are GREAT.

That transom mount idea is "noluck" 's idea and the shots are of his boat. Pretty cool, simple, and it works. Thanks on the speaker boxes though:).
 
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