Replacing fuel tank double eagle

Tips Up

Well-Known Member
After smelling gas in my carport, I tracked it down to my on board fuel tank.
Looks like it may have small leak. Bit of gas in the bilge and all hoses and fittings look dry except for along the bottom edge of fuel tank on one side.

Looks easy enough to pull out and replace.

It's 100 litre aluminum tank.

Any advise on where to get replacement in Victoria?
Thoughts on plastic vs aluminum?
Any advise from experience before I get started?

Thanks
Tips
 

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You can contact Double Eagle and they will tell you who does their tanks.They have patterns etc.ask for price including shipping if required(their in Vancouver).I had a plastic tank in my previous boat,never any problems,it was 25 years old when I sold it.I would be surprised if you can have a custom aluminum built for less than a stock plastic tank.
 
Tips, I have the same boat, replaced an alum fuel cell that was mounted midship between the stringers 2 yrs ago with a moeller 130 ltr poly tank ,best thing I ever did on this boat the handling is excellent with the weight low and centered in the hull, I have pics and some advise if you want to go this route, give me a call, Curtis 7784331347
 
I think poco marine builds DE tanks but there is a long waiting list. I went with a moeler tank when we did ours.
 
Thanks for replies.
Picked up a plastic Moeller tank today.
Going to start draining and removing old tank tonight.
New one is 95 ltrs and a bit different shape but closest that would fit.

Just have to figure out fastening it in. Will figure as I go

Thanks
Tips
 
Did same boat last week . Screwed 3 2" strips with sickoflex with stainless screws to floor little wider then tank , used there mounting kit 4 aluminum brackets , strips keep tank off floor , bolt brackets in back first then tilt tank to sit in notches then attach to front brackets works great no movement , very solid , good luck
 
Sundance - which tank did you put in?
The one I purchased is 95 ltr and does not have the notches in the tank for the brackets.
It looked like this was the only one that would fit the space available.
 
What a nightmare this one has become.
Tank out easy enough. Figured out strap system no problem other than having to run around to 3 places to get what I needed.
Went to hook up the filler hose and the old one is 1 5/8". New tank 1 1/2" which seems pretty standard.
I guess I have to replace filler hose and assembly which is nearly unaccessable and has 25 years holding it in there.
Will have to replace vent hose also which is same.
 
What a nightmare this one has become.
Tank out easy enough. Figured out strap system no problem other than having to run around to 3 places to get what I needed.
Went to hook up the filler hose and the old one is 1 5/8". New tank 1 1/2" which seems pretty standard.
I guess I have to replace filler hose and assembly which is nearly unaccessable and has 25 years holding it in there.
Will have to replace vent hose also which is same.

Paid a marine mechanic to replace the fuel filler assembly two years back but while ours was in a difficult position it was somewhat accessible way up under the gunnel and only took a few minutes to replace. If the cap assembly is metal or part metal such as ours, don’t forget to disconnect and then reattach the ground wire to the assembly. Not sure if the ground is for corrosion prevention or static discharge prevention around fuel vapour or both, but pretty sure you want it working and connected at both ends. The ground connections should be kept corrosion free at both ends but how many would even know it is there given how it is often hidden away on many boats.
 
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If necessary could you sacrifice the filler/cap and pry it out? Then install a brand new one with the new 1.5" hose attached.

In any case be happy you don't have a boat like mine. If my tank goes I'd have to cut my deck open to access it!
 
Filler cap is garbage anyways because the hose is the wrong size but it is for some reason attached with what looks to be 3" bolts with screw heads and nuts on the backside. Which is stupid because they only go through the thin gunnel. Can't pry and damage fiberglass.
Easiest would be to drill out the screw from the top but they are stainless.

I am limited for tools and know how.
Not stupid though and it all looked so easy at the beginning. LOL
Had I not run into this hose issue, I'd be done.
 
Filler cap is garbage anyways because the hose is the wrong size but it is for some reason attached with what looks to be 3" bolts with screw heads and nuts on the backside. Which is stupid because they only go through the thin gunnel. Can't pry and damage fiberglass.
Easiest would be to drill out the screw from the top but they are stainless.

I am limited for tools and know how.
Not stupid though and it all looked so easy at the beginning. LOL
Had I not run into this hose issue, I'd be done.

you can drill out stainless bolts. just make sure you use good carbide drill bits and some oil or rapid tap lubricant if you can find some. but they should drill out fairly easily...even if you only drill them out part way. but try to use a smaller drill for a pilot (1/8"?) then work up to a drill the same size diameter as the bolt... if you can get a hammer up underneath, (or vice grips) bend the drilled out bolts back and forth, if they are still hanging on, a few times with the hammer (or vice grips) and maybe also use a chisel to try to bust them off....
 
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Filler cap is garbage anyways because the hose is the wrong size but it is for some reason attached with what looks to be 3" bolts with screw heads and nuts on the backside. Which is stupid because they only go through the thin gunnel. Can't pry and damage fiberglass.
Easiest would be to drill out the screw from the top but they are stainless.

I am limited for tools and know how.
Not stupid though and it all looked so easy at the beginning. LOL
Had I not run into this hose issue, I'd be done.

Trying to drill out the bolt or grind off the head and drive the bolt through would be one of the later options I would try. Remember you will need to be up under there on the inside to install the new one anyway.

Chances are it was put on with a screwdriver bit and a ratchet and long socket for the long bolt. If so it will likely come off somewhat the same way. Start with a little WD40 to dissolve any crud/corrosion and then a little penetrating oil. Then see if the nuts will come off with the long socket and a screwdriver on the head in case the bolt wants to spin. If the nut won’t turn and bolts want to spin and it seems like the screw head on the bolt is about to strip from the screwdriver, buy a manual impact tool (one of my favorite tools - about $20.) Wedge the ratchet in the tight space if you can so it is solid (it may have to be held in place) and set the impact tool to remove the bolt rather than tighten it, put in the correct screwdriver bit and then hit the impact tool with a hammer. Don’t hit it so hard that you are breaking fiberglass etc. The hammer impact tool provides both turning force and inward force so it should not strip the screw head while breaking the nut loose from the bolt.

Once the nut will turn on the bolt a standard screwdriver should work on the screw head and the long socket will hold the nut while you screw out the bolt or if there is room to work do it the other way - work the socket with the ratchet while holding the screw head.

If none of this will work, there are other things that can be done but if it were me I would try this first. A lot depends on access to the nut and how much space you have to work on it. If there is not room for a long socket and ratchet you may be able to get a shorty wrench or small ratcheting wrench on the nut in a tight space. If this won’t work there are other things you can do to get the bolts out including drilling out the bolt or breaking the nuts off with a nutcracker tool.

One way or another, those bolts are coming out and I am betting it won’t be that hard. Especially since they are stainless and not regular steel heavily damaged and almost welded together with rust.
 
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I used mini needle nose vice grips and locked it to the nut underneath and then unscrewed it. If you are grinding make sure you cover over the fibreglass where the shavings and sparks fly or they will melt into your gelcoat. Don't ask me why I know this!!
 
Thanks for all the feedback.
I am getting a second set of eyes and hands tonight.

I am still trying to figure out how this thing is 1 5/8" instead of 1 1/2"
The old tank intake measures 1 5/8" and I can't get the other end of the hose off the filler.
I can't find anywhere online that shows a 1 5/8" tank or filler. But you can get the hose.

Good times
 
Tank and everything from tank to motor is now new.
Nothing was standard size and had to be replaced as I went.

Tank may be 95 ltrs by measurement but does not hold 95 ltrs.

Oh well. I'm going fishing tomorrow.
 
Just wondering how you made the filler hose and cap work out for yah. Glad to see its done and your fishing again.
 
Tank

Sundance - which tank did you put in?
The one I purchased is 95 ltr and does not have the notches in the tank for the brackets.
It looked like this was the only one that would fit the space available.

18 litre , have 90 sukee not far to fish grounds , old was 35 gal wanted less weight and little room for 2 batteries , bought at trotac in Vic $325 if you look up website shows you all the tanks , most to high !
 
Hi

I know this is an old post but my 1991 16.5 DE has just developed the same issue . Bilge went from a little bit of what I thought was water in the fuel tank bilge in May to fuel outside the tank right to the top of the tank last weekend.
I can see pinholes in the top rear edge of the tank where I think it was welded. Going to try some JB weld as a temp fix but I think the writing is on the wall. A new AL tank will probably outlast me and the boat but I do not want to do this twice!
For those that used a poly tank I'm hoping you can help me with:
1) It's not clear to me what size of DE is being discussed in this post so I'm not sure if the 130L or 95L Moeller tank is appropriate and what inlet configuration was used . My boat has the mid-section side fill with the hose running under the camper seat . Most of the Moeller tanks have fill necks that sit straight up at the rear of the tank which obviously wont work unless I want to kick the filler hose every time I get in. If anyone has a Moeller part numbe rthe can proveid and deatil on how they routed the fill hose, that would be much appreciated.
2) did you have to remove the whole floor or just enough to get the tank out. I'm hoping the stringers are still in good shape and I can just get away with removing a section of floor.
3) if anyone has any photos of the process they can share, that would be great .

Thanks in advance
Brad
 
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Hi Brad. First off, JB Weld is not for repairing metal fuel tank pin hole leaks. The product you need is called Seal-All.

https://www.amazon.ca/Eclectric-Pro...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0000AXYZG

Second; here is a link to a thread for when we replaced the built in under deck fuel tank in my Model 2200 podded Glassply, which may give you some ideas. There are a few photos. There was a screwed on glass over wood cover plate/deck so access to the tank was easy.

https://www.sportfishingbc.com/foru...uel-tank-replacement.65975/page-2#post-845486
 
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