Rapid corrosion on motor

I'd hate to see what the internals of the motor look like.
Unless you have expertise in this issue (electrolysis/leakage current/grounding issues you should get a qualified professional to fix this ASAP. If using a multimeter, it must be capable of reading small fractions of ohms/current/voltage. As gungadin has mentioned, something recently came loose/failed/corroded. For all connections you need lot's of CLEAN contact area.
All ground NEED to connect at a single connection point; check the the neg battery terminal isn't "overloaded" with connections; according to ABYC 3 lugs max per per stud/bolt.
Doubt a cheap meter will suffice for this.
 
I'd hate to see what the internals of the motor look like.
Unless you have expertise in this issue (electrolysis/leakage current/grounding issues you should get a qualified professional to fix this ASAP. If using a multimeter, it must be capable of reading small fractions of ohms/current/voltage. As gungadin has mentioned, something recently came loose/failed/corroded. For all connections you need lot's of CLEAN contact area.
All ground NEED to connect at a single connection point; check the the neg battery terminal isn't "overloaded" with connections; according to ABYC 3 lugs max per per stud/bolt.
Doubt a cheap meter will suffice for this.
I pulled everything around the batteries out last night and cleaned all connections. Nothing was corroded but cleaned anyways . There’s a few ways I’ve read on the interweb to test for voltage leak. Take positive post off battery and put your meter to read DC voltage and put your meter in series with the cable and the positive post on battery and if your read 12v you have an issue. Did this will all loads and found the charging relay and the 120v-12v charger giving a reading . Also tested with ground lug off and run your meter in series with ground cable and negative post using DCmilliamp scale on meter and also got a reading with both of those components. Does this sound right? I deal with electrical quite a bit with my job but don’t deal with 12v DC much. Using a fluke 902 meter FYI.
 
Don’t really want to start changing components until I know for sure this is an issue . Wonder if it could even be the house battery causing the issue? Has me scratching my head for sure and also wanting to smack it against a wall lol.
 
Read the specs on your meter; will read R down to .1 ohm & DCV to .1V; but current goes to .1 micro A. 12AWG wire resistance is .016 ohms per foot, so your meter is probably not sensitive enough to go by R.
Also tested with ground lug off and run your meter in series with ground cable and negative post using DCmilliamp scale on meter and also got a reading with both of those components
What was the reading - boat out of water? - S/W is a conductor.
Problem with electrolysis on boats is that it doesn't take much leakage current to cause issues. I'd focus on measuring current. I have never had these issues, so can not offer hands-on advice; going by what I have read on the subject. It would probably be useful to take measurements with the boat boat in & out of water.
 
You can go looking for an answer but I don't think you'll find one.
I've owned two Hondas and while they are good engines, after 10 years in salt water they corrode.
Not saying you won't find the odd one that doesn't but they don't fare as well in salt water
as Yamaha or other similar 4 strokes.
 
You can go looking for an answer but I don't think you'll find one.
I've owned two Hondas and while they are good engines, after 10 years in salt water they corrode.
Not saying you won't find the odd one that doesn't but they don't fare as well in salt water
as Yamaha or other similar 4 strokes.
Found a few things wiring related that could definitely be an issue. Waiting on parts now and also getting all new anodes for good measure. I think I’ll be taking lower unit off will be the next step and get it sand blasted , repaired and painted .( anyone know someone that does this work?) Gonna all add up to $$ but motor is not very old and minimal hours so really hoping I can correct this issue and get some more life out of it.
 
Found a few things wiring related that could definitely be an issue. Waiting on parts now and also getting all new anodes for good measure. I think I’ll be taking lower unit off will be the next step and get it sand blasted , repaired and painted .( anyone know someone that does this work?) Gonna all add up to $$ but motor is not very old and minimal hours so really hoping I can correct this issue and get some more life out of it.
There use to be a place in langley,across from maple marine, Sandblast for you or rent a spot and equipment in his shop to do yourself
 
There use to be a place in langley,across from maple marine, Sandblast for you or rent a spot and equipment in his shop to do yourself
A buddy of mine mentioned something along those lines too. I’ll have to look into that . Thanks
 
Have been side lined from surgery so havnt got back to this issue . Installed new zincs before this and there was not much difference in weights. Will be inspecting / replacing internal zincs once able to .

1. Anyone know a good marine electrician or a corrosion expert that could help me with this issue?
2. Anyone know a place that could perform the repairs to the lower unit ? Ie blast , epoxy + paint etc?

just looking for ideas at the moment as still on the mend for a few weeks but then want to tackle this issue and get to the bottom of it and get repairs done .
 
I would sand it down to bare metal and paint it with an anti corrosion primer.
Let it dry thoroughly indoors if possible and then repaint.
pretty sure you can find the Honda paint in a spray on Amazon
 
I would sand it down to bare metal and paint it with an anti corrosion primer.
Let it dry thoroughly indoors if possible and then repaint.
pretty sure you can find the Honda paint in a spray on Amazon
I think he is trying to find the reason why??? Just sanding and painting is like putting a band aid on a scar
 
I doubt you will find anything wrong with your motor.
corrosion is an issue on a lot of Honda's.
I had two of them.
 
It's a Honda ! ;)
Lol, for some reason from your past post I knew you where going to say that lol. I have 2x honda on my boat, new to me in 2016, 1992 9.9 and a 2006 225, the 9.9 probably has 10000 hrs on it and the 225 has 650 hrs both of the show no corrosion what so ever. I did rewire the boat went i both it, I/o conversion to pod and outboard was done before I purchase, they had left all the old wiring in and it was driving me crazy, dead wires all over. After 4 years of me owning it still no sign of corosion. I think a voltage leak is the main reason for his issue. Btw I seen a lot of yamaroth in the last few years lol
 
I would like to see the condition of the zinks on his boat, if they burn up at a rapid pace there is something weird going on
 
Trouble shooting electrical gremlins on a boat is a pain in the butt, I have rewired multiple boats, lots of patience and time required to get it right, personally I just pulled all the wiring out and rewired the boat
 
I would like to see the condition of the zinks on his boat, if they burn up at a rapid pace there is something weird going on
Zincs look fine and I did replace them and compared the weights and was a very minimal difference
Trouble shooting electrical gremlins on a boat is a pain in the butt, I have rewired multiple boats, lots of patience and time required to get it right, personally I just pulled all the wiring out and rewired the boat
The previous owner had the wiring replaced and all looks decently done. I found a few issues so far and believe have narrowed it down to the house fuse panel. I removed all fuses then added 1 by 1 and everything seems to draw current some more then others. So it’s either an issue with the fuse panel or the wiring . Once I’m more mobile again I will be dissecting it. Either way I want to get the motor repaired as I will get to the bottom of it before she goes back in the salt.
Anyone work for beer? :D
 
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