Racor filter for main and kicker?

R

RMAC

New Member
I am looking to get a new filter on my boat and have heard nothing but good things about the Racor filters with the clear bowl. Right now I have a single filter in my boat and have both the main and kicker running off of it with a valve to switch between the kicker and main. Can I do that same thing with a Racor?

From what I was seeing online in documentation it was showing it has 2 inlets and only 1 outlet but not sure if I was reading that wrong.

The one I was looking at was this part number: 320R-RAC-01

It would be for a Yamaha 150 and a 9.9.
 
Yes you can, but there is a 2 port base just different part#. Still may have to run a shut off for the kicker.
 
I run both my main and my kicker off 1 racor no problem with on shut off valve.
 
I run both on mine. I never use the shutoffs
 
In some motor configurations you need a shut off to the kicker, because your big motor can suck your fuel bowl dry on the kicker and you start sucking air. But for some reason never happens the other way around. Only a shut off on the kicker fuel line. Have seen it first hand twice now.
 
If you have primer valves and they're in good shape you shouldn't need a shut off, primers have check valves in them. Mine runs fine without shut offs, the vacuum pulse fuel pump on my kicker (more check valves) and needle/seat/float assembly would both have to fail to suck the bowl dry on the kicker.
 
As we have recently replaced out main Al gas tank and fuel supply systems, I did a lot of reading and research in preparation for doing it. As I understand it, you are required to have either anti siphon valves built into the fittings at the tank pickups or approved fuel cutoff valves. No reason you cannot have both.

I also like having the redundancy of completely separate fuel supply systems for each motor, with duel Racors. It is reassuring to know that if the supply system for one motor fails in less than ideal circumstances, that the other motor is likely still going to run and you are not constantly messing around with fuel distribution valves. However, this requires that the main fuel tank has two pick up tubes built into it.
 
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Hello
If you have two tanks one for your kicker and one for your main,then run two separate systems.so two racers and a quick disconnect before the racer on both setups.that way if you do get bad gas or water in the tank you can run off the other ink with both motors by simple switching your disconnects thats the way I have my fuel systems set up.Also easy to trouble shoot if any problems arise...

Tight lines
Billydoo
 
Good to know! The plastic bowl is like $55 so that should put the replacement filter cartridges in the $20 range.
Real common base, and nice to have the sight bowl on marine. Have them on most of our stuff at he airport.
 
For safety and insurance reasons, I believe that with the plastic bowls you are not allowed to use them on inboard/outboard applications.
 
I don't know why they would produce a product if there was no market, and they produce a ton of them and they all have plastic bowls. We run about 60 of them on diesels from 60 to 260 hp at temps from, well under hood to -40 and have never seen one crack or leak.
https://www.parker.com/literature/R...ation_-_Marine_Filtration_Products_-_7501.pdf

Actually page 13 says plastic for outboards and metal for inboards. Don't know about insurance.
 
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casper5280 said:
For safety and insurance reasons, I believe that with the plastic bowls you are not allowed to use them on inboard/outboard applications.
Click to expand...

Very True. The clear plastic bowls make it very convenient to check and see that it is time to drain your water separators. Unfortunately they offer very little burn through protection in terms of an inside the boat motor fire if located near the boat motor such as under the dog house, motor compartment bilge area etc. In those situations, you are required to use the filter/separators with the sold metal water bowls. Most things in the fuel supply system are fire rated for burn through times and have higher requirements if they go into an internal motor compartment, even fuel hoses. Basically the filters/separators with clear plastic bowls are for outboards. If you have a fire with an internal boat motor you cannot pull over to the side of the road and get out like you can with a vehicle and gas is more flammable than diesel. I think that is why they make both metal and clear plastic bowls.
 
Last edited:
casper5280 said:
For safety and insurance reasons, I believe that with the plastic bowls you are not allowed to use them on inboard/outboard applications.
Click to expand...
I guess I shouldn't say Insurance. It was a marine surveyor who pointed it out to me. As Rockfish says all types of things in the whole fuel system, hoses, vents, even clamps. He mentioned that he saw many boats with the plastic bowls used in the wrong application, mine being one of them. The previous owner installed it. I changed all the parts out as he suggested and he was find with that. I just guessing if you had a fire that if anything was wrong with the fuel system your insurance would be void. Anything so they don't have to pay out.
 
I believe these are the current standards still. The first one is boats built before 2012, the 2nd for built after 2012. All clamps must be AWAB marine grade smooth band hose clamps and you must double clamp all connections.


Fuel_Tank.jpg
Fuel_Tank_new.jpg
 
I don't see how the insurance company could do that if marine rubber hose is approved. Don't recall seeing to many boats with solid steel lines and no rubber hose and I'm sure marine rubber hose will burn through before a racor plastic fuel bowl. To me it would be a pain in the butt to have to drain a solid metal bowl into a cup and possibly spill into your bilge rather than glance at a transparent plastic one and see no need to drain.
 
our boats run separate lines from the tank to each motor with there own racors and plastic drop cups with bleeders. It's the best way to go because if a line gets buggered you still have one motor. In some cases if you get bad fuel you can suck a bunch of water in and kill one motor then at least you still have one fresh line to keep an eye on while heading back in. The bleeders are great you can see a little water which inevitable if your burning lots of fuel, then you just crack them the water drains off out of clear cup and your off to the races. Would not run racors with out the clear drop cups, would end up with water in the injection system which can be a pain to clear out especially on the water.
 
I have the racors with clear cups and bleeders also in the engine compartments with the twin diesels. Came from the factory like that. I have a survey coming up so will be interesting to see if that is an issue that is brought up...
 
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