Project 'Bad Habits' Build

[ComfortZone]

we all have those days!!

I know its hard to stop when you want something done, but when things start going this way (especially on such a large project) I find it often is best to stop/think...if you still feel overwhelmed/frustrated/annoyed, move on, even if it is another part of the project, or cleaning up tools..ect

because once you get in that mind set NOTHING seems to work!! lol

 

[Finished Business]

....still plugging away. Been working on building the removable cross members that go across the fuel tanks. Have them all made, just have to apply some resin to seal the wood. Got my fuel senders and gauges in, so I can install them in the tanks, run the wiring above the floor, and finally start securing the floor to the stringers.

Before I do that though, I had my checkerplate sandblasted with a media called "Starblast". Its not as course and makes microscopic dents, rather than cutting into the aluminum like most media's do. This way I can create and abrasive surface on the floor, that will stay clean over continued wear and abuse. A media that cuts into the aluminum surface will pick up and hold dirt and grime, similar to a piece of sandpaper that clogs up.

Heres a shot of the material side by side, a blasted piece, and a raw piece. The blasted piece is the non-shiny, grey looking material.

 

[Sculpin]

I think your going to like that a lot. Shiny looks great but function wins every time. I have slipped on wet aluminum checker plate before and I think that blasted stuff will work wonders. I guess you will see if Chaps is right eh! Thanks for the update.

 

[Finished Business]

Ya I really like the new finish! Shiny stuff is for the girls. Give me dull and rigid! Eventually when I make some good leaps and bounds, I will update things @ AAB. One concern is that when blasting it actually warps the material. It was only an 1/8" sample piece and my flooring is 3/16, but the blaster said it would still warp. The floor is being handsomely screwed down to the stringers so I don't think the warping will make a difference, but to be safe I plan on pre-drilling the screw holes in the floor, and mounting it to some plywood for when it's blasted. That should hopefully eliminate any warping.

Oh it was blasted at 140PSI. Chaps (AAB) recommended to start at 70PSI and increase as needed, but its a huge industrial shop that did it for me and their machines only go as low as 140PSI...but it looks and feels good to me. To do the whole floor, as you guessed John, will be about a hundred buckaroos.

 

[seprus505]

Have you thought about going with a split window in the front to keep with the factory lines, and keep all the rest just like you have done. Looks good can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[Finished Business]

Hey Seprus....great first post checking out my project! Appreciate the verbal contribution!

As far as the split window, that is one scenario where I will likely choose function over aesthetics. If the superstructure is too week because of one full window, I was thinking of doing a 60/40 split window, which would give the captain a better view out the window...again I'd like to go with a full window, no split, but structurally if that doesn't work I will have to split the window.

what are peoples thoughts on a 60/40 split front window?

 

[Sculpin]

Hey Seprus....great first post checking out my project! Appreciate the verbal contribution!

As far as the split window, that is one scenario where I will likely choose function over aesthetics. If the superstructure is too week because of one full window, I was thinking of doing a 60/40 split window, which would give the captain a better view out the window...again I'd like to go with a full window, no split, but structurally if that doesn't work I will have to split the window.

what are peoples thoughts on a 60/40 split front window?

IMO split it down the middle and have the structural integrity and symmetrical look.

 

[Fish-Hunter]

IMO split it down the middle and have the structural integrity and symmetrical look.

Ah Yep, I'll second that one.

How big would the windows be with a center split?

 

[Finished Business]

with a split they would be roughly 2'x2' each window, with a 4" split approx...

 

[Fish-Hunter]

with a split they would be roughly 2'x2' each window, with a 4" split approx...

2'x2' is a reasonable size, but...... it depends on how close you are to it. If you are up close it will seem big, if you are back from a ways then it will seem smaller, I'm sure you know what I am getting at. I can see your reasoning for one big pane - no obstructions.

I still say that an even split (if it has to be split) would only look better for symmetry not for function - but that is just how my brain is wired I guess - balance the left and right.

But on the other hand you could start a new trend - from thinking outside of the box

 

[Finished Business]

the front windshield is quite far forward from the helm....so much so that with my lanky 6'4' frame and arms I can hardly reach the windshield from inside the cabin. Hence the want for the single pane window. The split would be always in my line of sight.

Really hoping I can go the cyclops route in the end..

really need to get back on this build...but with work and prime time on the coast my weekends are booked!
still slowly knocking away tho....

 

[MRACER]

single window sure gives great visability--so far, no problem with stability for me...and I love the term "cyclops"!

 

[Finished Business]

single window sure gives great visability--so far, no problem with stability for me...and I love the term "cyclops"!

Yaaaa it was your boat that gots me thinking! Love that big open front window!!

 

[charls07]

thanks for the information

 

[Finished Business]

something worth posting on the project finally!

After a forever break from this project due to fishing and work, I'm happy to say I had a chance to get back on a few things.

Over the weekend I finally put resin on the plywood cross members I had to install over the gas tanks to give the floor some strength when walking on. The previous supports were made of flimsy formed aluminum sheet and did nothing other than sag and depress the top of the tanks when walked on.

I also installed the new WEMA fuel senders on both the main and reserve tanks.

Now that that tedious work is done with, I just have to run some wiring for the senders, and finally mount and secure the water and gas lines so they don't jar around when under power. The original design from the Crestliner just had the lines sitting ontop of the tanks, free to rub on and wear down the rubber hose lines. My design will have the lines secured to the cross members, raised up off the top of the tank so there is absolutely no abrasive surfaces those gas lines can rub on.

Here's a couple pics detailing my progress. Always up for comments or criticisms!

Cheers -FB-

 

[Labman2]

Lookin' Good!
How much fuel does your boat hold?

Just got the alum. ordered for my tank. 1/4" sides, ends, center baffle and top, 2 x 3/16" cross baffles,36" x32" x 11", broke and sized $695.00!!!
Then I have to weld it!
Where do you get those fittings, my old tank has the ****** galv. iron?

 

[Finished Business]

The tanks (from the factory, not custom built) hold a total of 103 Gal (80 main 23 reserve). They were built out of 5052 Alumnium and the full construction is made from .090 alu sheet.

As far as fitting go, if you can think it, New Line Hoses and Fittings should have whatchyer after. They have a branch in burnaby with head office and inside sales in surrey (port kells). I'm sure there are other options but for sure they have what you need. The fuel lines are brass fittings and the filler tube and breather are aluminum. As mentioned previously I would use WEMA senders. You deal direct with the company, products are made in USA, and they are a fair price (about 30 bucks each). They are made completely of stainless steel. Awesome unit.

The heavier rubber hoses pictured are my aerator lines for my live-wells, FYI

 

[Labman2]

okay, not qite sure what NEMA senders are, are they for the fuel gauge?
I tried to source the Alum. sheet at half a doz. places around Edmonton, could have got it cheaper, but then I would have had to pay someone to shear and break it.
I will try New line, online, I want to set my new tank up with the alum, filler/breather, fuel supply will be brass as yours is. Just have to silver solder a copper pick-up tube to the brass fittings.

 

[Finished Business]

Labman, fuel senders are installed in the gas tank and are what the fuel guage is wired to. It measures how much gas you got in yer' tank using a float. Wema is a company that manufactures a variety of gas and water tank senders, as well as guages to boot. Google Wema Usa and it will direct you to their website.

Id recommend you try AJ Forsyth Specialty Metals Division (in Langley, BC) for you aluminum needs. All types of extrusions and sheet aluminum.

Cheers,

FB

 

[Labman2]

Thanks for the link, they are a division of Russel Steel, like Russel Specialties.
Tried to call them here in Edmonton, must all be on lunch break.