pod design

Lazy Bones

Member
I am converting my I/o to an outboard.
I cant determine if my numbers are good or not.


From the lowest point on my transom up to the waterline on my bottom paint is 22" vertically.
Most motors have 25" leg. That would leave me 3 inches above the water at the transom bracket ...

When doing the pod conversion, do we still want the engine's cavitation plate flush with the original keel and the extended keel of the pod?

Has anyone's pod build discussed these measurements?
 
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If your motor is mounted 30" back of the transom it will allow you to run your motor at least 2.5" up beyond a standard outboard config. I would go 27.5" above your keel to the top of your mounting flange on the pod.
 
at the exact moment the guy said "yea I'll build you a pod, bring me 2000$ cash" -- I decided I will be building a nice fiberglass pod myself. it will tie in to the stringers and become part of the boat.

unless a better deal comes along like a used pod.
 
If your motor is mounted 30" back of the transom it will allow you to run your motor at least 2.5" up beyond a standard outboard config. I would go 27.5" above your keel to the top of your mounting flange on the pod.

are you saying a mounting point 5.5" above the waterline (at rest in dock) should be enough?
is there a max recommended water level set by manufacturers?
 
Yes. Thats the way mine is done. There is no book on pod building that i know of. I would call some fab shops and ask a bunch of questions. Tell them that you are concerned about your waterline and ask how high it will be mounted.
 
When I podded my Seasport the formula was: the cav plate comes up from level with the bottom of the hull 1 inch up for each foot of pod length back.
 
I am not an expert on this topic. Are you planning on doing this as an outboard bracket or as a hull extension? I believe the raising of outboard due to set back is only if the design is as a pod, which I believe is where at planning speed, the bracket is out of the water. If you are making it out of fibreglass, how about making it as a hull extension? Provides added buoyancy and a longer running surface which is probably better for bridging waves etc.
Alan
 
I was going to extend the hull, then I realized I'd rather fish than spend the summer looking at the boat.

I'm going to take the motor and gear out and take the whole thing to 'the pod guy' who did albernifisher's boat.

All over the map selecting motor size, I think I will settle for a 200.
I wanted to put a 250 on, but the pod man said it was serious overkill and a 150 would do.
 
I was going to extend the hull, then I realized I'd rather fish than spend the summer looking at the boat.

I'm going to take the motor and gear out and take the whole thing to 'the pod guy' who did albernifisher's boat.

All over the map selecting motor size, I think I will settle for a 200.
I wanted to put a 250 on, but the pod man said it was serious overkill and a 150 would do.


What size is the boat? The boat in your avatar look heavy and minimum 200hp
 
its 23ft long, a good 8 ft wide and I need an 8ft ladder to get in when it's in the driveway.

its heavy now but should be lighter without the 350 motor and 290 leg.



can I delete my trim tabs? and just keep them stored in case I really need them?
 
Lotsa boat there

Somebody thought you can push that behemoth with a 150? I think 200 is light, 250 sounds about right. That old V8 probably pushed it well and I'd guess it gave in the range of 250hp. You will get lighter by ditching the engine & leg but once you subtract the new engine weight plus the new pod I'd think the difference is like 200lbs (one fat fishing friend).

I haven't heard of anyone complaining of too much engine, many complain about too little.
 
it was the pod guy who said that, and he has done hundreds.

I suspect he hasn't fathomed how much boat is there yet.

he'll get a closer look when I'm done ripping out the motor and he gets a look in person.
 
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