Opinions on anchor windless’s

MadJigga

Well-Known Member
Hey all. I’m beginning research on the eventual purchase of a windless for my 20’ Grady. As with most things, it’s hard to weed through all the positive and negative comments online. I’m looking for some first hand perspective. Hopefully after years of use.
 
I added one once I decided I was tired of hand bombing close to shore with no one else at the wheel. Inlet Marine installed one big enough for a way bigger hook then mine. I can check the model but its definitely a lemar and I had to add all new chain rode and rope for some reason.

I didnt think to add the controls on the deck, I always have to nudge my hook overboard so that would be handy but not the end of the world. Maybe someday I will see if I can angle it better.

It ended up being around $3,000 installed but you definitely can do it yourself . They did a fine job and I'm glad I have one. Plus the stainless bling on the bow is something too.
 
Madjigga,I think your in Victoria,you should contact Trotac.I talked to a staff person there (I should know his name by now)that used to work at Lewmar and had lots of knowledge about which windlass was better than others.Mine was known to be crap,he recommended not fixing it.
 
Madjigga,I think your in Victoria,you should contact Trotac.I talked to a staff person there (I should know his name by now)that used to work at Lewmar and had lots of knowledge about which windlass was better than others.Mine was known to be crap,he recommended not fixing it.
Cheers. I’ll do that.
 
you are most likely an experienced fisher.... do not use it for offshore anchoring.
 
I installed the Lewmar Profish two years ago. I got a full summer of use out of it last summer. I boat camped for 3 weeks up in North Coast and used it minimum 3 times a day (I have a dog so lots of beach runs). If you research Lewmar, some give it a bad rap. So far, it’s been reliable but there are certain “best practices” you have to use.

No. 1: The obvious one——NEVER use the windlass as a anchor rode cleat, whether you’re using all chain or using a combo chain + nylon rode. Either buy a snubber or make your own. MY recommendation: get a Mantus snubber....well made, attaches to the rode and comes off the rode lickety-split. Combine it with a few meters of bridle and then you can throw in some bridle scope without using the windlass.

No. 2: Invest in 8-brait rode, the diameter according to your boat length/weight etc. Brait reduces line twist and handles well in small anchor locker spaces. It’s a bit more slippery then the three twisted strands you see in the picture of the snubbed-rode below—-if you’re using brait and need to snub it off, just do an extra loop when you tie the Prussic knot that Mantus recommends

No. 3: I’d bet money that some of the guys who bad-mouth their Lewmars never did the annual maintenance.

I just took mine apart yesterday and lubed all the moving pieces with Lewmar lube. It took me all of 30 minutes


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I’d bet money that some of the guys who bad-mouth their Lewmars never did the annual maintenance.

I just took mine apart yesterday and lubed all the moving pieces with Lewmar lube. It took me all of 30 minutes

Just curious, if this is the maintenance that you performed? I have yet to do mine with 5 years of operation
I have only done the the gypsy drum maintenance yearly

 
I installed the Lewmar Profish two years ago. I got a full summer of use out of it last summer. I boat camped for 3 weeks up in North Coast and used it minimum 3 times a day (I have a dog so lots of beach runs). If you research Lewmar, some give it a bad rap. So far, it’s been reliable but there are certain “best practices” you have to use.

No. 1: The obvious one——NEVER use the windlass as a anchor rode cleat, whether you’re using all chain or using a combo chain + nylon rode. Either buy a snubber or make your own. MY recommendation: get a Mantus snubber....well made, attaches to the rode and comes off the rode lickety-split. Combine it with a few meters of bridle and then you can throw in some bridle scope without using the windlass.

No. 2: Invest in 8-brait rode, the diameter according to your boat length/weight etc. Brait reduces line twist and handles well in small anchor locker spaces. It’s a bit more slippery then the three twisted strands you see in the picture of the snubbed-rode below—-if you’re using brait and need to snub it off, just do an extra loop when you tie the Prussic knot that Mantus recommends

No. 3: I’d bet money that some of the guys who bad-mouth their Lewmars never did the annual maintenance.

I just took mine apart yesterday and lubed all the moving pieces with Lewmar lube. It took me all of 30 minutes


View attachment 52099 View attachment 52100
So, I ordered a Lewmar Pro 700. Should be great for my boat. Where did you purchase the snubber, never mind. Ordered the snubber now.
 
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QUOTE
Just curious, if this is the maintenance that you performed? I have yet to do mine with 5 years of operation
I have only done the the gypsy drum maintenance yearly
UNQUOTE

Hey kanuckle head—-very helpful video—thanks for posting—-mine’s only two years old so I just did the simple disassembly that exposes the back of the gypsy, not the motor gears and bearings. I had green gunk back there so I stuck it on a wire wheel, cleaned it up, then lubed all the mating surfaces.

These things do tend to lock-up though (the free wheel clutch freezes). I was warned about that by guys on The Hull Truth before I did my installation.

Hot tip for new Lewmar windlass owners: get a breaker bar (at least the length of say, the handle of a hammer) that’s fitted at the end with something along the lines of what you see in the attached picture. That fitting should fit inside the toothed sprocket hole on the outside of the free-wheel that’s clutched to the gypsy

Yes, Lewmar makes an over-priced wrench that’s designed to loosen the clutch when it freezes (or just to remove the fitting itself) but in my experience, the wrench is too wimpy to break it free ...not enough leverage and the handle is too skinny for my fist to get a good grip—-that wrench is in the second picture below

So when your clutch freezes, lock the anchor in the anchor nest so the chain is taut like a violin string then use the breaker-bar to free the clutch

It happens often so I stow that breaker bar in a plastic tray out near the winch....you’ll appreciate this tip when it happens to you because it’ll happen at the worst possible time.

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Interesting I haven't had mine lock up, more the opposite in drag backing off which is an east fix. I'm finally heading out tomorrow for the first run since November and check the winch out. No question it should be serviced but that will have to wait until I haul out again (boat is stored in a shed on the hard)

Thanks for sharing, sharphooks. Very helpful.
 
Have been fortunate my drum clutch have not locked up, maybe because when my unit sits, I back off the pressure on the nut
As my get the boat ready to go out routine, tightening the nut back up is one of them. The clutch drum service is quite simple and fresh grease is key, will have to replace the 2 small dowels as they are getting rusty
Not looking forward to the gear service, like in the video. It could be a corrosion nightmare and a bear to work on
 
i installed a v700 on my boat last year. i love it.. no more pulling in by hand as the gf idles forwards.
the free fall distance is really important for rope to coil nicely in the chain locker. i already had a hawse pipe hole in the deck so i used that to cut the lewmar template. but it wasnt ideal. result- i have to help the rope coil in the locker some times. not ideal. i do use double braid instead of plait or 3 strand, but i can see the recomended ropes are better
 
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