Mooching reel, mono vs braid

Chuck

Active Member
My mooching reels spooled up with 30# Prospec, never had an issue other than there is a lot of stretch in and actually don’t mind mono for whatever reason. Have a huge spool of Powerpro that I used for levelwinds river fishing, I could spool on but not too sure about braid, especially in DR clips. Could run a 50 yard mono overshot to stop that problem.
Just always used mono.
Many using braid on mooching reels and what’s the benefits?
 
My mooching reels spooled up with 30# Prospec, never had an issue other than there is a lot of stretch in and actually don’t mind mono for whatever reason. Have a huge spool of Powerpro that I used for levelwinds river fishing, I could spool on but not too sure about braid, especially in DR clips. Could run a 50 yard mono overshot to stop that problem.
Just always used mono.
Many using braid on mooching reels and what’s the benefits?
Biggest benefit fishing at 200 ft can see a Herring bite my offering very sensitive plus 65 pound braid equals 12 mono so a third the blowback and have been using the same line for 10 years usually change mono every year saving lots of money
 
Are the fellows using braid for longevity or just less blow back ?

Never really thought it would make much difference, but i guess when going deep it could be much better.
 
I find a better connection to the clip when trolling deep, to the rod tip for nibbles, and to the fish when hooked. Mono stretches a lot, which is good for new fishers and hackers. Maybe I should switch back.
Braid will last a long time too, but not really a concern.
 
Also use top shot of mono ...Another bennifit of braid I find is it is easier to pull it off the clip with less stretch /effort .. but mono seems to keep it attached lime it’s supposed to
 
One great "scientific" method is to use:
* 25'-30' of mono for what you're calling the "top shot" (to clip onto the downrigger) ,
* tied to 150'-200' of braid for strike sensitivity down to that depth,
* all backed-up with mono for both: fighting the fish on long runs, and cost effectiveness
 
One great "scientific" method is to use:
* 25'-30' of mono for what you're calling the "top shot" (to clip onto the downrigger) ,
* tied to 150'-200' of braid for strike sensitivity down to that depth,
* all backed-up with mono for both: fighting the fish on long runs, and cost effectiveness

Morty, I’m curious to understand what makes the combo you describe as scientific?
 
Hum, agree with braid and top shot, I currently use 50lb braid with 30lb mono, run about 75 ft of mono, then I have some extra to cut off the tip if i have to retye. If I get a tangle all the mono gets cut off and new stuff put on, just takes a couple minutes. Fishing springs I am fairly anal about replacing the mono after fighting a few fish, no matter how it looks. Also I use a double uni knot to join, never had a failure. I am sure there are other knots that are better but this is the one I learned to ty so why change
 
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I have been using braid on my moochers for well over 25 years. Mark, owner of charkbait.com (SoCal tackle shop) reports braid will last at least 15 years; probably making it far cheaper than mono over the years - just replace the topshot often as mentioned by others. 40# mono holds very well in the release clip. With zero stretch, it's not as idiot-proof as mono. I am in the process of switching everything from solid to hollow core braid to avoid the mono-to-braid knot hanging-up on a rod guide.

Here is a video of the connection I am using for hollow-core:


Only downside of hollow-core is the complexity of making a new connection in the field.
 
I have been using braid on my moochers for well over 25 years. Mark, owner of charkbait.com (SoCal tackle shop) reports braid will last at least 15 years; probably making it far cheaper than mono over the years - just replace the topshot often as mentioned by others. 40# mono holds very well in the release clip. With zero stretch, it's not as idiot-proof as mono. I am in the process of switching everything from solid to hollow core braid to avoid the mono-to-braid knot hanging-up on a rod guide.

Here is a video of the connection I am using for hollow-core:


Only downside of hollow-core is the complexity of making a new connection in the field.

Great connection but good luck tying it in 5+ft. swells or 2+ft. chop and need tools to tie it...
 
a lotta guys do, on an MR3 or similar reel, 75 yds. flyline backing, then 300 yds 65 braid. Add a top shot of 30 mono, maybe 100 feet, good to go.
 
What kind and lb. rating of hollow core and mono are you using?

One great "scientific" method is to use:
* 25'-30' of mono for what you're calling the "top shot" (to clip onto the downrigger) ,
* tied to 150'-200' of braid for strike sensitivity down to that depth,
* all backed-up with mono for both: fighting the fish on long runs, and cost effectiveness

Right now I have 2 spinners with hollow core, one 40/40 the other 20/20.

For my moocher's I'll probably go 40/40 as within the lifetime of the braid my grandkid's will be coming with me as well as my idiot brother-in-laws.

Vast majority of hollow core users are the Tuna fishers using pretty heavy stuff & lot's of it.

One great "scientific" method is to use:
* 25'-30' of mono for what you're calling the "top shot" (to clip onto the downrigger) ,
* tied to 150'-200' of braid for strike sensitivity down to that depth,
* all backed-up with mono for both: fighting the fish on long runs, and cost effectiveness

The braid will outlast the mono backing by 15 years, so IMO I don't see this as being cost effective or an easy method
 
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