dmurph
Well-Known Member
Ok. Are you putting in a new system
Lowrance electronics install help
- Thread starter dmurph
- Start date
Ok. Are you putting in a new system
dmurph
Well-Known Member
This is where I’m thinking to mount the new carbon. My raymarine screen was where the lowrance is as seen in the bottom photo. Thinking to change it up now and put it close to helm, frees up window and counter space, but less visible to the back deck. I now will have a 7 inch screen on back deck to accommodate. Can still see all gauges aside from hour meter and speedo is hard to see. Any thoughts?
Mike park
Active Member
I am installing a nmea backbone kit as well with drop cables for power in , autopilot , fuel flow sensor, Rear MFD, Helm MFD .
Garmin has a kit but it seems the back bone cable will be Too long.
I'm planning on running the back bone from the battery box to the cluster behind the dash my boat is in storage right now ,any idea how long that run would be I'm thinking maybe 15- 16 foot
Garmin has a kit but it seems the back bone cable will be Too long.
I'm planning on running the back bone from the battery box to the cluster behind the dash my boat is in storage right now ,any idea how long that run would be I'm thinking maybe 15- 16 foot
Mike park
Active Member
I had my 8" garmin right where you have the 12 found it nice to be able to use the touch screen while running and bouncing around.
The johnny ray bracket would allow you pop the display off with a riser or extension it would swivel as well. https://johnnyraysports.com/product-category/swivel-mount/
I'm looking at that for my rear MFD so I can put it on the helm or rear deck when I want
The johnny ray bracket would allow you pop the display off with a riser or extension it would swivel as well. https://johnnyraysports.com/product-category/swivel-mount/
I'm looking at that for my rear MFD so I can put it on the helm or rear deck when I want
dmurph
Well-Known Member
Ok back to the drawing board, have all the screens mounted, radar and arch point 1 all cables run. Time to wire it together. Picked up a blue seas fuse blade and have power from a dc panel and a switch to turn it all off. I’m not sure how to run all the yellow wake up wires. Anyone know what the right way is?
dmurph
Well-Known Member
I can measure that maybe tomorrow if you need
Mike park
Active Member
thanks my question would be what is the length from the battery box along the floor then up behind to the helm panel. I'm guessing 15-16 ft
Can't be much help with your wiring
dmurph
Well-Known Member
I’ll send you a pm
wolf
Well-Known Member
Have to ask why would you spend the 5 grand plus on all of it then , NOT get someone to install it properly one bad connection and you could toast something costing you even more ...i tend to error on side of caution as i am always worried about doing something wrong..
Good luck
Good luck
dmurph
Well-Known Member
I’m always worried about doing something wrong as well, and I totally get your thinking was torn as to do it myself are take it to a shop.
I like the idea of being able to do something myself, a bit of a learning experience. I like knowing exactly how everything is run and put together I was able too take my time and run all the wiring pretty nice and clean up a few things along the way. I’ve had good a not so good work at shops. I’ve successfully been able to do other install projects like my intelli steer. I’ve had good and not so good work at shops and right now it would have been a bit of a wait. Mainly just the learning experience but I did also splurge on the second screen with the thinking of saving the install cost of up to 8 hr labour.
I agree on doing it yourself. In general, that stuff is pretty robust and as long as you don't mix positive with negative which isn't hard to get right, you cannot really do much damage. Stuff might not work the first time, but usually its just a small adjustment here or there. Plus if you do it yourself it will generally be a much tidier and better quality effort as it is your boat after all! Youtube and the web (and this forum!) have all the info you need. Just take your time, its actually quite fun, I'm jealous. I love electronic boat projects. Use quality components! Use good quality marine wiring and marine grade wire connectors that have the heat shrink built into them. The wire is tinned and will last longer. They are insultingly expensive but really do stand up to the test of time. I like to put dielectric grease on all exposed metal electrical connectors unless they are sealed or inside the cabin.
wolf
Well-Known Member
I just know that stuff can and is finicky I know of a few who have tried on own and poof went the radar dome,,, As i mentioned before Glen has all the neat testers etc to see if something is right or not and he will walk you thru it ...
my major grief is you read everything to a T ad install it and some things dont work as per a update or "not in book" I had my point one off calibration and went thru all the steps ... it got me so frustrated and pissed off... Glen figured it out from a OLD manual set up ..... or else id still be mad LOL i tend to have not alot of patience for that sort of thing...
my major grief is you read everything to a T ad install it and some things dont work as per a update or "not in book" I had my point one off calibration and went thru all the steps ... it got me so frustrated and pissed off... Glen figured it out from a OLD manual set up ..... or else id still be mad LOL i tend to have not alot of patience for that sort of thing...
Olde School
Well-Known Member
There is no substitute for being able to troubleshoot your own stuff when conditions gang up on you.
dmurph
Well-Known Member
Ya I’m a little worried about that portion of the install, I’m good at drilling, running wires, mounts, wire crimping and what not, but system set up may be trouble, I have a hard enough time getting the computer to email lol
