intermittant no crank problem

[Fish Camp]

I have a 1988 gmc 1500 manual trans .Last couple weeks I have had a intermittant no crank problem. Battery cables are new ,battery is new, wires to the starter are tight ,removed and bypassed clutch safty switch.when the intermittant no crank happens I have been lucky enough to have a hill to jumpstart and the truck fires right up and i am good to go .Now the intermittant problem is getting more frequent.I am thinking it is not the ignition modual in the distibutor .I am tinking it is not the ignition switch in the stearing colum .as the truck fires up right away when rolled down the hill and cluch is popped in 2nd.must be the 2 month old starter.any advice on my towing rig to get me back on the road with confidents? Buy new ,sell truck is not a option.FC

 

[profisher]

It would still crank over if the ignition module was bad. I would say a faulty starter. Did you buy new or rebuilt 2 months ago? Rebuilt can be garbage and for the few dollars saved not worth it, if new are available.

 

[gungadin]

Don't eliminate the ignition switch just yet. When you are starting it by rolling down a hill, you only have the ignition switch in the on position, not the start position.
You need to use a remote starter switch, hook one end to the starter solenoid where the skinny wire attaches, and the other to the battery + terminal. Now put trans in neutral, apply park brake and block wheels. Better yet have someone sit in drivers seat and apply brake as well. Turn ignition to on. Now press the remote starter button. If the engine turns over and starts, your problem lies in the wiring. If it does nothing, not even clicking, then the starter solenoid is at fault, if it clicks but the starter does not turn over, you likely have a dead spot in the armature for the starter and need to replace the starter.

When I say "remote Starter" I am not referring to the kind that starts your car from your house but rather one like this https://www.amazon.ca/OTC-3650-Heav...ocphy=9001609&hvtargid=pla-569509711339&psc=1

 

[G-Auto]

Don't eliminate the ignition switch just yet. When you are starting it by rolling down a hill, you only have the ignition switch in the on position, not the start position.
You need to use a remote starter switch, hook one end to the starter solenoid where the skinny wire attaches, and the other to the battery + terminal. Now put trans in neutral, apply park brake and block wheels. Better yet have someone sit in drivers seat and apply brake as well. Turn ignition to on. Now press the remote starter button. If the engine turns over and starts, your problem lies in the wiring. If it does nothing, not even clicking, then the starter solenoid is at fault, if it clicks but the starter does not turn over, you likely have a dead spot in the armature for the starter and need to replace the starter.

When I say "remote Starter" I am not referring to the kind that starts your car from your house but rather one like this https://www.amazon.ca/OTC-3650-Heav...ocphy=9001609&hvtargid=pla-569509711339&psc=1

You can avoid all this if you test the solenoid wire (small wire) for power with the key in the "start position" alternatively you can just jump the solenoid wire to the big post on the starter. There is no need to run it to the battery. If if has power, or does not crank while jumping it, the starter is bad. If there is no power to the solenoid wire, or it does crank when jumped you have a wiring issue.

 

[gungadin]

The above works, and may be fine for you, but you will never find me under a vehicle when trying to start it. Too many bad things can happen. With a remote starter, you stand off to one side, out of the way of moving parts.

 

[Wild Bill]

I would bet on the ignition switch. Sometimes they can be adjusted a little tighter to get some extra life out of them but it's generally crank that fails first and they are inexpensive.
ACDelco D1405B GM Original Equipment Ignition Switch https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000C9RT5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V3U5Db9V2W6Q4

 

[Fish Camp]

Thanks everyone .I borrowed a truck to get my tools to work today.stopped at the jobber and asked questions about warenty on starter.and looked in my repair manual as to replace the ignition switch in the colum, or as WB said it could be the rod mechanism to the switch could be modifid and look for burns.I have a heat shield for the solinod vs egaust manifold on the starter and the small wire you speak of is to the top and inaccessable without removing slave cly and starter (coul be tested as GG said.The ignition switch and rod in the colum is what I will now research.a point to make so far is left my lights on and asked for a jumpstart 12v just before intermittant problem started,and they showed me R2D2 and go to work .Amps to boost may not have calabrated be by me solo at60 -80 amps. since. The cause 2 months ago when i changed battery, wires ,starter,and slave .Slave 2x times cause I buggerd the first one up.