DISC BRAKES WHAT DO YOU THINK?

W

Wireman

Active Member
I'm thinking about changing over to disc brakes, not decided on whether to go SS or cad plated, Tie Down or Kodiaks. Has anyone out there converted, are they worth the money
Thanks in advance
Cheers
 
My dealer told me that they make a lot of money changing out stainless disc brakes on trailers. He suggested I go with the Tie Down vented rotor Galv-x coated. I installed them 3 years ago and have been happy with them.
 
My dealer told me that they make a lot of money changing out stainless disc brakes on trailers. He suggested I go with the Tie Down vented rotor Galv-x coated. I installed them 3 years ago and have been happy with them.
 
kodiak is the only way to go if your going with discs, almost everyone i havve talked to with tiedowns need to replace them almost annualy, all i hear about them is "god damn p.o.s"


img3937n.jpg
 
kodiak is the only way to go if your going with discs, almost everyone i havve talked to with tiedowns need to replace them almost annualy, all i hear about them is "god damn p.o.s"


img3937n.jpg
 
Kodiak brakes are the only way to go. Thought I'd save some $$ and went with the TieDowns which quite literally fell apart after less than two years (and I rinse after EVERY trip). The Kodiaks are still going strong after 3 years (with the usual annual maintenance).

An extra few $$ spent now will save you $$ in the long run. I learned that lesson with trailer brakes.
 
Kodiak brakes are the only way to go. Thought I'd save some $$ and went with the TieDowns which quite literally fell apart after less than two years (and I rinse after EVERY trip). The Kodiaks are still going strong after 3 years (with the usual annual maintenance).

An extra few $$ spent now will save you $$ in the long run. I learned that lesson with trailer brakes.
 
I would not bother switching over if you are on drums now. I have heard mixed reviews on the pros and cons of drums vs. disc. FOr me personally, I do not see enough benefit for you to do the switch. If I was buying a new trailer and the price of the drum trailer was the same as the disc I would then go disc.


I think it is alot of hype and marketing. Kinda like the braided downrigger line vs. cable. Or grease bearings vs. oil bath bearings. Another way of seperating us from our cash.

Got have the latest and greatest! it must be better!
 
quote:Originally posted by dawn2dusk

I would not bother switching over if you are on drums now. I have heard mixed reviews on the pros and cons of drums vs. disc. FOr me personally, I do not see enough benefit for you to do the switch. If I was buying a new trailer and the price of the drum trailer was the same as the disc I would then go disc.


I think it is alot of hype and marketing. Kinda like the braided downrigger line vs. cable. Or grease bearings vs. oil bath bearings. Another way of seperating us from our cash.

Got have the latest and greatest! it must be better!
Click to expand...
I totally agree about hype and marketing. It's the same with fishing tackle and colours, etc. Personally, i still use the same gear i've used for 20 years as those are the same fish. I blame the tackle industry..... [:p]
 
Totally disagree on that one. I've had 3 or 4 drum trailers. All of them had poorly working brakes after 2 years. (with flush kits) Needed complete re-dos. I've had 2 trailers now with disc's, (1 for over 10 years and the one I have now for 5) and have never replaced a part. Brakes work as new. I sold the 10 year old trailer privately for half the price of the new one. The trailer I have now I serviced the calipers (lubed) and wheel bearings after 3 years. Pads are about 50% right now. The brakes are completely open so flushing is effective and they dry completely afterwards as water isn't trapped inside the drum. I would never go back. If you hit your brakes hard and you don't feel the boat and trailer pulling on your butt for a second or two after you release the brake....they ain't working!
 
Thanks for all the replies,I trailler my boat every week and put on roughly 40 to 90 KM. each time depending if I'm going to Esquimalt or Sooke. After about 3 months time I've got to adjust the brakes as they are not self adjusting,what a pain in the arse! It's a 26 FT. boat weighing about 6800 LBS. on a EZ Loader tandom and I'm not comfortable the way it stops. In my opinion the drum brake kits you buy are crap made overseas and not self adjusting, me thinks I'll look around for the Kodiaks, just have to decide on what grade of steel and how much I'm willing to spend. Thanks again
Cheers.
 
Wireman

I just bought a new trailer with disc brakes and electric over hydraulic actuator. WOW, they work great this is towing a 8000lb 26' boat behind an Ford F150. The trailer brakes will stop my truck and boat/trailer if I have it set on a higher setting. This system works better than the 3500lb boat and trailer I had with surge drum brakes that were just completely rebuilt. The disc brakes should never need adjusting, and they really grab! You can buy a new actuator to replace the surge system if that is what you currently have. I am a lot more comfortable with this setup even though it is stopping more than double the load. Braking hard around sharp corners with surge brakes can be a little unnerving, like on the road to Port Renfrew ...
It all about the braking.

Eastpoint
 
Mine are surge on a 5800lb Shorelandr'. Not sure of the brand of disc's on the trailer, they are not SS I know that. Never had to replace any parts so never found out the manufacturer.
 
I have a Float On trailer with the Electric over Hydraulic set up up - its a 12,000 pound trailer and loaded with my big Grady I can stop the Truck with the trailer brakes. I just have to remember to turn down the power to the brakes when running unloaded....amazing smoke show if you forget[:0]

I'm totally sold on this system after years of the drum system. Never going back.

Searun

th_067.jpg
 
The biggest issue with drums is the starwheel adjusters failing and overadjusting, causing cracked shoes and excessive heat. The discs are so much smoother. My #8400 trailer has the big kodiak discs and there is no clunky stops, lockups or inadvertent lockup while towing an empty trailer. I know a few guys who have dusted a tire to the cords in seconds with one touch of the pedal due to seized adjusters, gets pricey and they flush after every use and apply non metalic neverseize each spring.

www.tailspincharters.com
 
I changed my EZ laoder from drum to disks. What an improvment in stopping. I tow to Lake Tahoe over a 9000' pass and was glad I towed with a big diesel truck. Drums required new backing plates about every 2 years and never stopped like disks. Never a failure on the Kodiak brakes. Only reason I changed calipers and disks was I lost a bearing and axle on a trip and Century Rim and Wheel sold me an axle with new brakes installed for $300. Ecoated and not stainless calipers. I now have a Guardian aluminum trailer with UFM axles and brakes. Maybe 2000 miles on the trailer and no problems. 3400# boat on the trailer. I would never go to drums again. When washing down the boat and trailer, just hose off the brake assembly to desalt.

21'Jetcraft Bluewater, Hobie Outback
 
I think I'll wait till my brakes are Dunn, but what am I going to be looking at cost wise to convert my tandem axle drums to disc?
 
Halilogger I loked into it two years ago,it was going to cost me around 780. bucks at the local napa parts store. i have six lug hubs so they cost a little more than the five lug hubs. will change to disc also when the time comes.

Rum Chum
 
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