Cope Design - Cortes Island 30 Build

Sweet build. Bruce was able to upgrade the fuel tank from 60 us gal to 116 us gal on my 23' winter harbour build plans. I don't plan on running with a full fuel tank all the time, but when we go on remote trips, I should get great range with twin 115.
I really enjoy build threads, I look forward to following this one.
 
Curtis,

Holy **** man what a terrible story. I can’t imagine the dark place one crawls into after seeing that.

Looking forward to reading about the new build and seeing it this summer at P.P!!!

Sure will be a beauty and I can’t imagine I’ll be able to keep up with this new boat either!
 
Oh man sorry about your boat, hopefully you didn’t lose out to much financially, what a stress. On to bigger better times now though, gonna be another exciting thread
 
Sweet build.

Definitely go as big as possible on fuel tank. A bigger tank actually adds flotation in a sinking with the same amount of fuel for a little extra weight. If you had a 180ga tank with 120ga of fuel, that's 60ga of air space in the tank that can not fill with water. Even if tank is full, that 60ga of gas is still lighter than 60ga of water.

The trim tabs seem way undersized. Bennett recommends more like 30x12. I've never heard anybody complain their tabs are too big and should have gone smaller. :)

I've heard there are now 220 lb thrust remote control trolling motors available. They really are phenomenal for drift management and also anchoring. Even if you don't install one now, planning for how it could be installed might be worth it. Edit does the iDock do anchoring?
 

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Sweet build.

Definitely go as big as possible on fuel tank. A bigger tank actually adds flotation in a sinking with the same amount of fuel for a little extra weight. If you had a 180ga tank with 120ga of fuel, that's 60ga of air space in the tank that can not fill with water. Even if tank is full, that 60ga of gas is still lighter than 60ga of water.

The trim tabs seem way undersized. Bennett recommends more like 30x12. I've never heard anybody complain their tabs are too big and should have gone smaller. :)

I've heard there are now 220 lb thrust remote control trolling motors available. They really are phenomenal for drift management and also anchoring. Even if you don't install one now, planning for how it could be installed might be worth it. Edit does the iDock do anchoring?
That's a good point about the trim tabs but I'm limited by space with the motor pod and my transducer hanging off the transom. I'll ask Bruce what the max size is and see what he says. I never really thought of using iDock for anchoring but it would probably work well for drift jigging. It offers incredible control of the boat.
 

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That's a good point about the trim tabs but I'm limited by space with the motor pod and my transducer hanging off the transom. I'll ask Bruce what the max size is and see what he says. I never really thought of using iDock for anchoring but it would probably work well for drift jigging. It offers incredible control of the boat.

Well then I look forward to a report in the summer on how the iDock improves jigging. :)

Is there a reason not to have a thru hull transducer? I think they work much better at speed and it would remove that obstacle to bigger tabs.. If it's for side scan I have a shoot through for 2d and a transom mount for sidescan. But the transom mount is well above the hull intersection because sidescan only works at lower speed and the transducer doesn't even need to be in the water when on plane.. Maybe you could stick it under the pod?

Bennett's customer service is freaking phenomenal so might be worth asking them about other trim tab options too.
 
A few thoughts;

1. If it helps, for reference the trim tabs on the 33' x 11', 18,000 pound Eaglecraft are 12"x24".

2. Agreed - try to get 180 gallons of fuel if you can. Range is key.

3. As for sky-anchor, I had it before on a pair of Verado 350's with joystick. I used it twice and then never used it again. The shifting forward neutral reverse was extremely noisy, clunky, and felt as though I was being cruel to the motors and transmissions. Might work ok in areas of no current or wind, but in the real world it's not a great solution for outboards.

Now having said that, the sky-anchor on the IPS boat works beautifully because the pods are under the boat, have built in trolling valve control thereby eliminating most of the shifting, and have duo-props that bite like crazy in the water without having to rev to effect change.

Sky anchor on outboard - not so good. Sky-anchor on IPS - brilliant.

4. For thru-hull transducers, lots of alloy boat builders like to put as few holes in their hulls as possible. In this case they usually weld a tab on the trailing end of the hull and put a thru-hull transducer onto that tab. The transducer functions as a thru hull since the water flow from the end of the hull onto the tab is not interrupted, unlike if you were to use a transom mount transducer attached to the end of the hull picking up turbulent water.

5. Recommend not mounting any chirp type transducer where it is out of the water when running. The chirp transducers need the water to keep cool. Even though you aren't using your side scan when on step you may be using the chirp traditional element when on step.
 
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Curtis,sorry to hear about your boat,I know you spent a lot of time researching and having it built to your liking.I was wondering why you hadn't posted anything on the forum in a while.,now I know.You were obviously happy with most of the choices you made re/ motors,electronics etc. and probably learned a lot to aid in building your new one.Your not going to have the new one ready for this summer I assume,if you need a fishing fix ,give me a call any time. Ray
 
Curtis,sorry to hear about your boat,I know you spent a lot of time researching and having it built to your liking.I was wondering why you hadn't posted anything on the forum in a while.,now I know.You were obviously happy with most of the choices you made re/ motors,electronics etc. and probably learned a lot to aid in building your new one.Your not going to have the new one ready for this summer I assume,if you need a fishing fix ,give me a call any time. Ray
Thanks Ray, you are a good man. I think it is unlikely to finish it completely, but may have it done enough to get some time in. One can always hope.
 
Well then I look forward to a report in the summer on how the iDock improves jigging. :)

Is there a reason not to have a thru hull transducer? I think they work much better at speed and it would remove that obstacle to bigger tabs.. If it's for side scan I have a shoot through for 2d and a transom mount for sidescan. But the transom mount is well above the hull intersection because sidescan only works at lower speed and the transducer doesn't even need to be in the water when on plane.. Maybe you could stick it under the pod?

Bennett's customer service is freaking phenomenal so might be worth asking them about other trim tab options too.
My SS175HW was mounted thru-hull last time and while it was phenominal at lower speeds, when speeds picked up it was intermittent. That is because on aluminum boats you require a plastic spacer between the transducer and the hull. I'd say that spacer was about 3/8" which really disturbed the water. I am planning to do what BCI mentioned above on point #4. I can't remember where I saw this pic from but it looks pretty slick. BCI with the spacer in place, I was thinking that I'd have the bracket mounted to that it was 2mm below the hull. What are your thoughts there?
 

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Seeing your boat like that must have been completely heart breaking wow.

I have to ask though, wouldn’t you think people around the marina would have seen this boat taking on water and did something about it, like what did they do walk by it and watch it slowly sink like WTF.

By the looks of it your building one heck of a fishing machine congrats and can’t wait to see the new build. Those twin G2’s will be sweet on the back of her.
 
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Seeing your boat like that must have been completely heart breaking wow.

I have to ask though, wouldn’t you think people around the marina would have seen this boat taking on water and did something about it, like what did they do walk by it and watch it slowly sink like WTF.

By the looks of it your building one heck of a fishing machine congrats and can’t wait to see the new build. Those twin G2’s will be sweet on the back of her.
I had people checking on it every single day and actually multiple times. Nobody noticed the bilge going off unfortuantely. They were 2000 gph so they would probably only run for a few seconds to clear the water. I think what happened is that after the batteries died, the hull started taking on water. The void is huge below deck and when my retired RCMP buddy checked it at 11pm he said it looked fine. By 6am it was gone. The surveyor said that boats can hold a hell of a lot of water until they can't and then go down fast. It was tied to the dock so once it started listing to one side it was a gonner...by the house of the managers voice, I thought that someone had died. It wasn't a good feeling...
 
Yah makes sense I guess.

Thx.
 
My SS175HW was mounted thru-hull last time and while it was phenominal at lower speeds, when speeds picked up it was intermittent. That is because on aluminum boats you require a plastic spacer between the transducer and the hull. I'd say that spacer was about 3/8" which really disturbed the water. I am planning to do what BCI mentioned above on point #4. I can't remember where I saw this pic from but it looks pretty slick. BCI with the spacer in place, I was thinking that I'd have the bracket mounted to that it was 2mm below the hull. What are your thoughts there?

I didn't realize the SS175 had such a thick spacer for alloy hulls. I had the B175HW on an Ocean Sport 30 but no spacer since it was bronze on glass.

For your application I would be afraid to give wrong advice... not sure what is going to give you the cleanest water flow. You might have to rig it up in an adjustable fashion to see what works best then finalize the location based on results. I just don't know what will happen with water flow when the surface is not flush from hull bottom to transducer mounting tab.
 
I didn't realize the SS175 had such a thick spacer for alloy hulls. I had the B175HW on an Ocean Sport 30 but no spacer since it was bronze on glass.

For your application I would be afraid to give wrong advice... not sure what is going to give you the cleanest water flow. You might have to rig it up in an adjustable fashion to see what works best then finalize the location based on results. I just don't know what will happen with water flow when the surface is not flush from hull bottom to transducer mounting tab.
Ya, I can always mount it flush and have 1/8" spacers made for it and once I get the spacing perfect lock it in with 5200.
 
4. For thru-hull transducers, lots of alloy boat builders like to put as few holes in their hulls as possible. In this case they usually weld a tab on the trailing end of the hull and put a thru-hull transducer onto that tab. The transducer functions as a thru hull since the water flow from the end of the hull onto the tab is not interrupted, unlike if you were to use a transom mount transducer attached to the end of the hull picking up turbulent water.

I have been thinking about the possibility of having ZERO through hulls on an alloy boat build. Could have a transducer mounted as you describe but also do the same for a raw water intake.

For a head just go with one of the portable ones (or a bucket!...suits me just fine).

For a fish box could have in on the transom with a slightly angled bottom with a plug and drain it over the side above the water line.

Don’t know if this is realistic or possible?
 
I have been thinking about the possibility of having ZERO through hulls on an alloy boat build. Could have a transducer mounted as you describe but also do the same for a raw water intake.

For a head just go with one of the portable ones (or a bucket!...suits me just fine).

For a fish box could have in on the transom with a slightly angled bottom with a plug and drain it over the side above the water line.

Don’t know if this is realistic or possible?

This is all doable.
 
Are you sure you're going to have enough range with only 120 gallons on board?

Edit: I note it shows 545L which is 120 Canadian gallons or 143 US gallons.

What are you expecting for performance and mpg per US gallon?
I was going to say the same. 120 gallons for a 30' with twins seems a bit low but I don't know your fuel burn or fishing area.
 
You show a salt water washdown which is great but I also had a seperate washdown from the freshwater system. This allowed me to do a major deck cleanup with salt water and then do a final with fresh water. Wash motors and stainless as well. It was also great to wash down the windows with fresh water
 
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