Canvas fastener thread - unusual question

Saxe Point

Well-Known Member
I moor my 18 Hourston hardtop in Sooke year round. It has canvas that covers the cockpit, extending from the roof to the splash well. A couple of the snaps where it attaches to the splash well broke in the summer, and it wasn't a problem because it still covered the cockpit nicely.

Well, an otter took advantage of the small opening and moved in on the Saturday. I used a bungee cord to try to close up the opening, which is not big. Didn't work, as he moved back in on Sunday. I then used a downrigger weight in a weight mate to hold down the corner and put a board on top as well. Kept him away for a few days but he was back today. Crafty creature.

I pulled the boat out for cleaning and I'm getting new canvas, which was long overdue.

Question is whether I should get the regular snaps along the bottom of the canvas or get the twist lock type, which can't just be pulled off. I've never had an otter problem before when my snaps were all good, but I don't know how resourceful these things can be. Can they pull up regular snaps or am I giving them too much credit?

Maybe I should just get the twist lock ones along the bottom edge out of an abundance of caution, even if it means having to replaced the studs in that part of the boat.

Opinions welcome.
 
I moor my 18 Hourston hardtop in Sooke year round. It has canvas that covers the cockpit, extending from the roof to the splash well. A couple of the snaps where it attaches to the splash well broke in the summer, and it wasn't a problem because it still covered the cockpit nicely.

Well, an otter took advantage of the small opening and moved in on the Saturday. I used a bungee cord to try to close up the opening, which is not big. Didn't work, as he moved back in on Sunday. I then used a downrigger weight in a weight mate to hold down the corner and put a board on top as well. Kept him away for a few days but he was back today. Crafty creature.

I pulled the boat out for cleaning and I'm getting new canvas, which was long overdue.

Question is whether I should get the regular snaps along the bottom of the canvas or get the twist lock type, which can't just be pulled off. I've never had an otter problem before when my snaps were all good, but I don't know how resourceful these things can be. Can they pull up regular snaps or am I giving them too much credit?

Maybe I should just get the twist lock ones along the bottom edge out of an abundance of caution, even if it means having to replaced the studs in that part of the boat.

Opinions welcome.
Sounds like the otter really likes your boat. I’m not sure any type of snap is going to deter him, he does have sharp retractable front claws and may just decide to slice up your brand new canvas to get to where he wants. He also has scent glands, so your boat probably smells like otter all ready. Good news is your boat is out of the water getting cleaned, hopefully removing the otter aroma. When you relaunch, I would try another berth at the marina so maybe he can’t find his favourite boat. Now I could be giving him too much credit. As for the broken snaps, I keep a Chap-Stik in my tackle box and dab a little on the male end when they start to get “sticky” and don’t want to separate.
 
I like to have multiple defenses against otters. First off do what you can with the canvas to keep them out. Secondly, take steps to make your boat unattractive. I keep a couple of bars of Irish Spring soap scattered around the boat - I have been told they do not like the smell and that this works well. Also, during the winter months I keep a talk radio station on at low volume 24/7. They avoid human voices also.
 
There is not much worse than the stench that Otters will cause in your boat. We pull ours out of the water in the winter months when there are not many people around the marina to help keep them away.
The canvas snap parts on the hull and super structure of our boat are riveted to the hull but they can wear out from corrosion and electrolysis over time and not snap closed. Because of this we usually replace one or two each year. You can get them from Trotac with a self tapping screw so they are easy to replace by drilling out the rivet and screwing in the new ones so if you want to replace them, it should be easy as long as the self tapping screw diameter is larger than the hole.

How about a motion detection bright led lite and alarm down low on the deck perhaps scaring the hell out of it and sending it elsewhere.
 
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id go with snaps as the other corrode easily and they take 2 screws were the others are just the self tapping ones
 
Once they move in they can be a bugger to get rid of. I would leave the boat out for a bit to see if they go away and yes the new snaps will help as well as they will be tight. They are probably looking for a place to have little ones!
 
small buckets of ammonia, a quick wash down of ammonia. they don't like it at all.
 
I moor my 18 Hourston hardtop in Sooke year round. It has canvas that covers the cockpit, extending from the roof to the splash well. A couple of the snaps where it attaches to the splash well broke in the summer, and it wasn't a problem because it still covered the cockpit nicely.

Well, an otter took advantage of the small opening and moved in on the Saturday. I used a bungee cord to try to close up the opening, which is not big. Didn't work, as he moved back in on Sunday. I then used a downrigger weight in a weight mate to hold down the corner and put a board on top as well. Kept him away for a few days but he was back today. Crafty creature.

I pulled the boat out for cleaning and I'm getting new canvas, which was long overdue.

Question is whether I should get the regular snaps along the bottom of the canvas or get the twist lock type, which can't just be pulled off. I've never had an otter problem before when my snaps were all good, but I don't know how resourceful these things can be. Can they pull up regular snaps or am I giving them too much credit?

Maybe I should just get the twist lock ones along the bottom edge out of an abundance of caution, even if it means having to replaced the studs in that part of the boat.

Opinions welcome.

I replaced a snap last summer have a bunch kicking around if you’re interested. They were the wrong size but you’re welcome to them. Send me a PM if you’re interested. I think they were self tapping 3/8, I should’ve gotten the 1/4.
 
The typical snaps used on a boat canvas top are called “Line 24” snaps. if you have the little setter and anvil, you can repair the damaged snaps your self in minutes. i do leather work so i already had the setter and anvil bit you can pick up an entire set of snaps and setting materials at Michaels for less than $20.

if i was closer i would fix it for you for nothing.

i have no experience with those other snaps you mentioned, but the line 24s are so ridiculously cheap, widely available, and easy to fix i would go that route.
 
The typical snaps used on a boat canvas top are called “Line 24” snaps. if you have the little setter and anvil, you can repair the damaged snaps your self in minutes. i do leather work so i already had the setter and anvil bit you can pick up an entire set of snaps and setting materials at Michaels for less than $20.

if i was closer i would fix it for you for nothing.

i have no experience with those other snaps you mentioned, but the line 24s are so ridiculously cheap, widely available, and easy to fix i would go that route.

That is useful information. Am I correct in assuming that this is what you use to replace the part of the snap that goes in the canvas. On an older boat like ours so far it has only been the part of the snaps that goes on the boat not the ones on the canvas that have failed. I suspect that this is because the canvas tends to wear out over time and when it gets replaced the new canvas has all new snaps built into it. The ones on the boat tend not to get replaced unless they get thin, bend or begin to crack or break little pieces off and stop working. It is nice to know the ones in the canvas can also be replaced. I wonder if the ones you refer to as ridiculously cheap from Michaels are of the same high grade stainless for marine use that you get from a Marine Chandler type of shop. The ones we get from Trotac are not what I would call expensive compared to most marine hardware made out of high grade stainless or bronze and they appear to be high grade stainless.

The canvas material they make for marine use is rather amazing for its resistance to wear and tear, dirt, the acid from seagull crap, leaking and UV damage.
Ours that goes from the top of the cabin roof down to the transom is getting closer to its end of life and after a lot of use it seems like it shrinks a little so that it becomes difficult or impossible to stretch to fit a small number of the snaps, especially on or near the lower transom corners. When it was newer it was no problem. Anyone found a solution to this other than replacing the whole canvas top although we may be getting closer to canvas replacement time anyway?
 
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Ours that goes from the top of the cabin roof down to the transom is getting closer to its end of life and after a lot of use it seems like it shrinks a little so that it becomes difficult or impossible to stretch to fit a small number of the snaps, especially on or near the lower transom corners. When it was newer it was no problem. Anyone found a solution to this other than replacing the whole canvas top although we may be getting closer to canvas replacement time anyway?

That’s precisely what happened to mine. Shrinkage, which in turn created stress on the snaps. Some broke off on the boat (the studs) and one snap in the canvas got torn out. It’s ancient canvas so a new one is in order. I’m going to ask the fabricator to consider making it a little on the large side to allow for shrinkage as it ages. It slopes so I don’t have to worry about water pooling.
 
That is useful information. Am I correct in assuming that this is what you use to replace the part of the snap that goes in the canvas. On an older boat like ours so far it has only been the part of the snaps that goes on the boat not the ones on the canvas that have failed. I suspect that this is because the canvas tends to wear out over time and when it gets replaced the new canvas has all new snaps built into it. The ones on the boat tend not to get replaced unless they get thin, bend or begin to crack or break little pieces off and stop working. It is nice to know the ones in the canvas can also be replaced. I wonder if the ones you refer to as ridiculously cheap from Michaels are of the same high grade stainless for marine use that you get from a Marine Chandler type of shop. The ones we get from Trotac are not what I would call expensive compared to most marine hardware made out of high grade stainless or bronze and they appear to be high grade stainless.

The canvas material they make for marine use is rather amazing for its resistance to wear and tear, dirt, the acid from seagull crap, leaking and UV damage.
Ours that goes from the top of the cabin roof down to the transom is getting closer to its end of life and after a lot of use it seems like it shrinks a little so that it becomes difficult or impossible to stretch to fit a small number of the snaps, especially on or near the lower transom corners. When it was newer it was no problem. Anyone found a solution to this other than replacing the whole canvas top although we may be getting closer to canvas replacement time anyway?

This is correct, each snap consists of four pieces which get pressed or peened together. So you start with the hole in your fabric, ( in this case canvas) Then, each working half of the snap is sandwiched on either side.

on a boat application the “stud” base is usually attached to the transom of your windshield frame, the socket or “ mushroom head “ side ( hope that makes sense ) is usually attached to the canvas. carefully drill out the central post and it will come apart in two pieces. when you go to install the new snap you will need to trim or grind down the central post to suit your specific thickness.

then using the setting tool, start peening over the central post. rotate the setting tool in your hand so the post peens down evenly.

The stud side ( usually attached to transom or windshield frame ) is much more difficult a fix as it’s usually riveted or screwed on.

i’ll try and post a couple of pics

As to the quality, the ones at Michaels are most likely offshore and as cheap as it gets, but the original poster was alluding to the fact he was getting a new top anyway.
 
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51312CA3-D2AA-41AD-964E-8BF8E45F416F.jpeg

Here is the side of the snap usually attached to canvas. the snap is sitting in the anvil base. so you trim the post as needed and proceed with peening it so it flares out and attaches to the “ locking “ side of the snap.
 
Here are all four pieces of the snap for a visual with the anvil and setting tool.

Stuff is cheap and easy. hope this helped @Saxe Point
 

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