Boat survey?
- Thread starter Clipper
- Start date
Yes. The survey may show up hidden damage that a less qualified person may miss. The dealers are in the business of selling boats. Now, if the dealer will give you a good guarantee against things like damaged stringers, rot, etc., then a survey might not be needed.
Also, when you go to insure the boat, depending upon age, they might ask for a survey.
Sorry, no recommendations for a surveyor.
Also, when you go to insure the boat, depending upon age, they might ask for a survey.
Sorry, no recommendations for a surveyor.
alumaman
Well-Known Member
I am selling my boat and was getting prices all over the map from brokers so I got an independent survey done. The guy went through it with a fine tooth comb, noted any repairs needed, looked up boat comparisons and I ended up with a fair market value. So now I have a marketing package with details of the boat and pictures that the broker can simply pass on to prospective customers. It takes the guess work out of things and it was well worth the money so if I was looking at any other boats I would do the same.
Island Fish Lifter
Well-Known Member
I didnt get one done when I bought mine out of Florida. My reason being that I got such a good deal on it that I figured I could absorb any surprise that I found. And sure enough, there were surprises. I was right though I had the time to make necassary repairs properly and cost effectively. I was also able to go through the boat and personalize it to a way that I wanted it. I still wouldnt get the money back that I now have into it, but that wasnt the plan anyway, and I have a boat that I can actually call mine.
If I had to pay someone to do the work I did to it, it would not have been worth it.
Fill the dam tub!
If I had to pay someone to do the work I did to it, it would not have been worth it.
Fill the dam tub!
I'd definitely intended to get a survey done on any used boat I was buying from a private seller and I think now I'll have one done on any used boat from a dealer.
From some of the stories I've read online, it sounds like it's a good idea to catch manufacturing defects on new boats as well.
No recommendations on a good marine surveyor?
From some of the stories I've read online, it sounds like it's a good idea to catch manufacturing defects on new boats as well.
No recommendations on a good marine surveyor?
TenMile
Well-Known Member
I had my boat surveyed when I purchased it from a dealer 2 years ago. I'd certainly recommend that you do it and more.
Remember, that the surveyor mainly looks at the condition of the hull and does not generally look at the condition of the engine or leg itself -- other than cosmetic. I would also have a qualified mechanic do a once over on the engine and would take that engine to a guy who can plug into it and get the codes from the engine (and get a copy of that report). Most engines now can report whether the boat has overheated in the past, how many seconds it ran while overheated and any particular codes that the engine throws. Would also have a compression test and get a qualified mechanic to test the shifting, gimbal bearing if it's an I/O etc.
The surveyor will generally test things like pumps, horns etc... but won't dig into anything that is out of his field of view. So for example wash down or fresh water pumps, sanitation systems, fuel pumps and what-not may work when he tests, but he won't look at the condition of those elements unless he can see them.
If the boat is an I/O or OB and you plan to leave it in the water, I'd also get someone who knows electrical systems to check any stray voltage.
Anyhow, survey + qualified engine mechanic/computer test would be the only way I'd purchase another boat. I did the survey last time and didn't do the mechanical (first used boat) and paid the price.
TenMile
<'((((><
Remember, that the surveyor mainly looks at the condition of the hull and does not generally look at the condition of the engine or leg itself -- other than cosmetic. I would also have a qualified mechanic do a once over on the engine and would take that engine to a guy who can plug into it and get the codes from the engine (and get a copy of that report). Most engines now can report whether the boat has overheated in the past, how many seconds it ran while overheated and any particular codes that the engine throws. Would also have a compression test and get a qualified mechanic to test the shifting, gimbal bearing if it's an I/O etc.
The surveyor will generally test things like pumps, horns etc... but won't dig into anything that is out of his field of view. So for example wash down or fresh water pumps, sanitation systems, fuel pumps and what-not may work when he tests, but he won't look at the condition of those elements unless he can see them.
If the boat is an I/O or OB and you plan to leave it in the water, I'd also get someone who knows electrical systems to check any stray voltage.
Anyhow, survey + qualified engine mechanic/computer test would be the only way I'd purchase another boat. I did the survey last time and didn't do the mechanical (first used boat) and paid the price.
TenMile
<'((((><
Charlie
Well-Known Member
I tend to go with IFL thought process here and I apparently haven’t had the good experiences as others with marine surveys? But, I am probably more fastidious and critical than most? If I were to feel a need to pay for a survey on any boat I was buying from a local dealer – I personally would find another dealer, one I could trust!
I am not really pro or con on surveys, as there can be a time and place, but the question of a survey should be based more on the age of the boat, the individual’s knowledge and comfort level (or lack of)? I have had some surveys done myself, “all” required by the lending institution and I haven’t been impressed, especially with my last one. As with IFL, I bought the boat knowing it had been setting and I would be spending some money to get it the way I wanted and to “my” standards. I took that into consideration when making the offer. The interesting thing is both the survey and mechanical inspection came back stating how nice and what great condition it was in. Neither mentioned a couple of fairly large and pretty obvious things? After reading the reports, I actually told my wife I didn’t think we would be using all of what I had budgeted? In the end, I spend a little over my budget, due to the large bill on the engines (items not covered under warranty) and also not caught during the mechanical inspection? Yes, I did go back to the company that performed the inspection – want to hear how that works out?
I remember buying and selling my previous boat! When I bought it, I asked them to unlock it for me – then go away! If I needed anything, I’d come and get them. Four hours later, I was still inspecting the boat! There is no doubt in my mind, when I got done - what I was buying and the condition it was in! Thinking about that time spent and then a surveyor spends an average of about an hour?
Keep in mind, Marine Surveyors use many credentials, letters, and terms such as “Yacht and Small Craft (Y&SC)”, "Accredited", "Certified", "Qualifed", "AMS", "CMS", and so on. In reality, there are many ways to become a marine surveyor including taking correspondence courses, or simply hanging out a sign and opening for business. Truth is, the profession is independent of any organizations and there is currently no national or international licensing requirement for any Marine Surveyors. There really isn’t any “official” certification of Marine Surveyors. All association terms and initials represent training and certifications (if any) are by private organizations.
I would say - just be careful, get a reputable surveyor and find out what you are spending your money on? There is also a “big” difference-getting one done locally by someone who has to live around you, than someone half way across the country?
Personally, if I had any doubts or questions, I would find a “good” mechanic and have the engine(s) inspected and serviced and ask them to look it over (two birds with one stone) half the price and you will probably get just as good, if not better information!
And this is only IMHO!
I am not really pro or con on surveys, as there can be a time and place, but the question of a survey should be based more on the age of the boat, the individual’s knowledge and comfort level (or lack of)? I have had some surveys done myself, “all” required by the lending institution and I haven’t been impressed, especially with my last one. As with IFL, I bought the boat knowing it had been setting and I would be spending some money to get it the way I wanted and to “my” standards. I took that into consideration when making the offer. The interesting thing is both the survey and mechanical inspection came back stating how nice and what great condition it was in. Neither mentioned a couple of fairly large and pretty obvious things? After reading the reports, I actually told my wife I didn’t think we would be using all of what I had budgeted? In the end, I spend a little over my budget, due to the large bill on the engines (items not covered under warranty) and also not caught during the mechanical inspection? Yes, I did go back to the company that performed the inspection – want to hear how that works out?
I remember buying and selling my previous boat! When I bought it, I asked them to unlock it for me – then go away! If I needed anything, I’d come and get them. Four hours later, I was still inspecting the boat! There is no doubt in my mind, when I got done - what I was buying and the condition it was in! Thinking about that time spent and then a surveyor spends an average of about an hour?
Keep in mind, Marine Surveyors use many credentials, letters, and terms such as “Yacht and Small Craft (Y&SC)”, "Accredited", "Certified", "Qualifed", "AMS", "CMS", and so on. In reality, there are many ways to become a marine surveyor including taking correspondence courses, or simply hanging out a sign and opening for business. Truth is, the profession is independent of any organizations and there is currently no national or international licensing requirement for any Marine Surveyors. There really isn’t any “official” certification of Marine Surveyors. All association terms and initials represent training and certifications (if any) are by private organizations.
I would say - just be careful, get a reputable surveyor and find out what you are spending your money on? There is also a “big” difference-getting one done locally by someone who has to live around you, than someone half way across the country?
Personally, if I had any doubts or questions, I would find a “good” mechanic and have the engine(s) inspected and serviced and ask them to look it over (two birds with one stone) half the price and you will probably get just as good, if not better information!
And this is only IMHO!
Wow Charlie, another point of view and very interesting. Thanks for taking the time to respond.
First thing Monday, I'm going to check with my insurance agent to see if a survey will be required and take it from there. I've always bought new boats so this has never been an issue before but I'm now looking at used (and bigger) so the question comes up.
I'm thinking that marine surveyors are like home inspectors - some good and worth every cent and some not so much.
I've bought used cars, motorcycles, rv's, houses etc. but this process seems way more complicated.
First thing Monday, I'm going to check with my insurance agent to see if a survey will be required and take it from there. I've always bought new boats so this has never been an issue before but I'm now looking at used (and bigger) so the question comes up.
I'm thinking that marine surveyors are like home inspectors - some good and worth every cent and some not so much.
I've bought used cars, motorcycles, rv's, houses etc. but this process seems way more complicated.
wolf
Well-Known Member
Most insurance companies want a survey done and marinas are now getting in the act as well as ive been asked for insurance papers and surveys.
Most boats you can SEE if there is going to be a problem things you need to look for is delaminated fiberglass,exposed wood etc.
If its on a trailer look at the hull carefully it should be uniform all the way done to the stern if there is any sag or dips in it there "could" be a problem with the stringers a tap test on the transom and strigers with a hammer dont pound just tap should sound solid if there is change in pitch almost like a hollow squish sound you will know when you here it (bang bang bang then dud!!!! )there is more than likly water behind it tap around in a circle to see how big it is if its small usually no prob IF you can get to it from the inside could be as simple as water getting in (loose screw or a bracket)and you just have to core it out and put new wood in and refiberglass.
You have basically done what a surveyor would do,if you have any doubts definattly get a proper survey done as what ive said is just simple tests you can do so you dont get a survey done on every boat you look at.
For a more indepth survey they can do core samples etc ask the boat owner to go in it for half of the price of the survey if he studders or says no maybe he knows of more hidden things and best shy away as maybe hes not being truthful.
When I helped Jimbob look at boats there were quite a few with little things I noticed one was so bad he put eye thru bolts thru the transom with a cable atttached to it then there was a clothes line adjuster to tighten it up bolted with a galvanized lug nut to the stringers. And the ownwer thought that was ok????WTF.
Just be carefull
Where are you looking area wise???
Good luck wolf
Most boats you can SEE if there is going to be a problem things you need to look for is delaminated fiberglass,exposed wood etc.
If its on a trailer look at the hull carefully it should be uniform all the way done to the stern if there is any sag or dips in it there "could" be a problem with the stringers a tap test on the transom and strigers with a hammer dont pound just tap should sound solid if there is change in pitch almost like a hollow squish sound you will know when you here it (bang bang bang then dud!!!! )there is more than likly water behind it tap around in a circle to see how big it is if its small usually no prob IF you can get to it from the inside could be as simple as water getting in (loose screw or a bracket)and you just have to core it out and put new wood in and refiberglass.
You have basically done what a surveyor would do,if you have any doubts definattly get a proper survey done as what ive said is just simple tests you can do so you dont get a survey done on every boat you look at.
For a more indepth survey they can do core samples etc ask the boat owner to go in it for half of the price of the survey if he studders or says no maybe he knows of more hidden things and best shy away as maybe hes not being truthful.
When I helped Jimbob look at boats there were quite a few with little things I noticed one was so bad he put eye thru bolts thru the transom with a cable atttached to it then there was a clothes line adjuster to tighten it up bolted with a galvanized lug nut to the stringers. And the ownwer thought that was ok????WTF.
Just be carefull
Where are you looking area wise???
Good luck wolf
Hey wolf, I've been looking everywhere on the net but just on the Island physically. Seen some interesting deals down south but would really prefer to spend my $$$ up here if at all possible.
I'm in no hurry. This will be the last boat I buy (probably) so I'm going to take my time and hopefully find the 'perfect' rig. Thanks for the advice.
I'm in no hurry. This will be the last boat I buy (probably) so I'm going to take my time and hopefully find the 'perfect' rig. Thanks for the advice.
searun
Well-Known Member
I agree with some things Charlie is saying. Certainly where practical you should spend all kinds of time going over every nook and cranny of the boat. However it is not always practical to do so...for instance my last 2 boats came from Virgina and North Carolina respectively...not practical to travel there and look her over on spec.
One thing you will never be able to test for unless you own the equipment is moisture in the transom and stringers. A qualified surveyor will test for that, and will save you a lot of heart ache and cost later if you find out you bought a hull with moisture in the wood. I know some guys who know boats who went and looked over their boats and were sure their boat was good, only to find out when they started installing a pod that the transom was rotten. Do your homework, and get a qualified surveyor is my advice.
Searun
One thing you will never be able to test for unless you own the equipment is moisture in the transom and stringers. A qualified surveyor will test for that, and will save you a lot of heart ache and cost later if you find out you bought a hull with moisture in the wood. I know some guys who know boats who went and looked over their boats and were sure their boat was good, only to find out when they started installing a pod that the transom was rotten. Do your homework, and get a qualified surveyor is my advice.
Searun
Charlie
Well-Known Member
I am thinking more on the lines of a “newer” boat, still under factory warranty. An older or wooden boat – get a survey! I will never say to anyone - don't get a survery, especially on an "older" boat or with any kind of doubts? If required by the insurance or finance company you're done anyway - you'll be getting a survey!
But, again... IMHO, a "good" mechanical inspection is far more important! Like stated, I am neither pro nor con surveys. But, I will whole heartedly, say, just be careful and know what you are getting and paying for?
What "Wolf" wrote is correct! If you are going to buy "locally"? I have many friends that have ask me (all the time)for help and opinions? It won't be the first or last time I went with a friend to look at a boat! Find a friend!! Maybe, he'll volunteer?
This is a typical guide for what a marine surveyor will and will not do and inspect... You might want to read this "closely" and note what is "beyond the scope", "isn't practical", "isn't reliable", and flat out "isn't inspected"? Most that aren't within the scope - are what I usually end up spending money on?
Scope of the Marine Survey</u>
Guidelines used for a survey will be the Rules and Regulations for Recreational Boats, as excerpted from the United States Code (USC) and the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) published by the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC), as well as the Standards and Technical Information Reports for Small Craft, also published by the ABYC, and NFPA 302: Standard for Pleasure and Commercial Motor Craft, published by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA). For sail boats the Safety Recommendations for Cruising Sailboats (SRCS), published by US Sailing will be used to the extent they are applicable.
An assessment whether the vessel is in full compliance with all of the rules, regulations and standards is beyond the scope of the survey.
Hull and deck moldings will be subjected to close visual inspection and random</u> percussion soundings with a light phenolic mallet and moisture meter tests with an Electrophysics Moisture Meter Model GRP33 and/or a Protimeter Aquant. Rain and freezing temperatures will preclude reliable moisture meter readings. Moisture meter readings may also be unreliable if the boat will be hauled shortly before the survey.
The interior structure of the vessel will be visually inspected.
Certain parts of the vessel’s structure, systems and equipment can only be inspected after removing bulkheads, joinery, liners, cabin soles, tanks, etc. This would be prohibitively time consuming, potentially destructive and costly to restore. Components requiring access with tools or by disassembly will not be inspected and core material of deck or hull, if any, will not be sampled.
The installation and external condition of machinery, plumbing, electrical systems and equipment will be visually inspected. Complete inspection can only be made by disassembly or by continuous operation. This will not be done. No mechanical tests will be performed on propulsion or auxiliary generating equipment. No compression tests will be performed. No fluid samples will be drawn. No machinery, electronics, ancillary equipment, tanks or fittings will be opened for internal examination. Machinery and equipment will be inspected while operating only when the Owner or the Owner’s authorized representative (Captain, Broker, etc.) is present to operate the machinery.
The inspection of flexible piping will be limited to the condition of its external casing and only where readily accessible for visual inspection.
Batteries and their installation will be visually inspected, but the batteries will not load tested. The external condition of electrical wiring, connections and system installation will be inspected. If shore power is readily available, the 120VAC wiring system will be tested with an Ideal Circuit Analyzer. Electronic and electrical equipment will be tested by powering up and observing basic function. No measurements will be taken; no calibrations or adjustments will be made. A complete analysis of the vessel’s electrical systems is beyond the scope of the survey.
Propulsion and rudder shafts will not be drawn for inspection, and no engine/propeller shaft alignment will be checked. Bimini tops, awnings, winter covers, etc, that are not rigged or laid out for inspection, will not be evaluated.
If the mast is stepped, it will be viewed from deck level only. If the vessel is in a state of winter lay-up, operation of winterized systems is precluded.
No evaluation will be made of the vessel’s stability or other design aspects.
But, again... IMHO, a "good" mechanical inspection is far more important! Like stated, I am neither pro nor con surveys. But, I will whole heartedly, say, just be careful and know what you are getting and paying for?
What "Wolf" wrote is correct! If you are going to buy "locally"? I have many friends that have ask me (all the time)for help and opinions? It won't be the first or last time I went with a friend to look at a boat! Find a friend!! Maybe, he'll volunteer?
This is a typical guide for what a marine surveyor will and will not do and inspect... You might want to read this "closely" and note what is "beyond the scope", "isn't practical", "isn't reliable", and flat out "isn't inspected"? Most that aren't within the scope - are what I usually end up spending money on?
Scope of the Marine Survey</u>
Guidelines used for a survey will be the Rules and Regulations for Recreational Boats, as excerpted from the United States Code (USC) and the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) published by the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC), as well as the Standards and Technical Information Reports for Small Craft, also published by the ABYC, and NFPA 302: Standard for Pleasure and Commercial Motor Craft, published by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA). For sail boats the Safety Recommendations for Cruising Sailboats (SRCS), published by US Sailing will be used to the extent they are applicable.
An assessment whether the vessel is in full compliance with all of the rules, regulations and standards is beyond the scope of the survey.
Hull and deck moldings will be subjected to close visual inspection and random</u> percussion soundings with a light phenolic mallet and moisture meter tests with an Electrophysics Moisture Meter Model GRP33 and/or a Protimeter Aquant. Rain and freezing temperatures will preclude reliable moisture meter readings. Moisture meter readings may also be unreliable if the boat will be hauled shortly before the survey.
The interior structure of the vessel will be visually inspected.
Certain parts of the vessel’s structure, systems and equipment can only be inspected after removing bulkheads, joinery, liners, cabin soles, tanks, etc. This would be prohibitively time consuming, potentially destructive and costly to restore. Components requiring access with tools or by disassembly will not be inspected and core material of deck or hull, if any, will not be sampled.
The installation and external condition of machinery, plumbing, electrical systems and equipment will be visually inspected. Complete inspection can only be made by disassembly or by continuous operation. This will not be done. No mechanical tests will be performed on propulsion or auxiliary generating equipment. No compression tests will be performed. No fluid samples will be drawn. No machinery, electronics, ancillary equipment, tanks or fittings will be opened for internal examination. Machinery and equipment will be inspected while operating only when the Owner or the Owner’s authorized representative (Captain, Broker, etc.) is present to operate the machinery.
The inspection of flexible piping will be limited to the condition of its external casing and only where readily accessible for visual inspection.
Batteries and their installation will be visually inspected, but the batteries will not load tested. The external condition of electrical wiring, connections and system installation will be inspected. If shore power is readily available, the 120VAC wiring system will be tested with an Ideal Circuit Analyzer. Electronic and electrical equipment will be tested by powering up and observing basic function. No measurements will be taken; no calibrations or adjustments will be made. A complete analysis of the vessel’s electrical systems is beyond the scope of the survey.
Propulsion and rudder shafts will not be drawn for inspection, and no engine/propeller shaft alignment will be checked. Bimini tops, awnings, winter covers, etc, that are not rigged or laid out for inspection, will not be evaluated.
If the mast is stepped, it will be viewed from deck level only. If the vessel is in a state of winter lay-up, operation of winterized systems is precluded.
No evaluation will be made of the vessel’s stability or other design aspects.
wolf
Well-Known Member
Clipper what are you looking for?? what charlie has wrote is great info mine was more of a do it yourself thing to determine on your own observations, cause if you do a transome tap test and here a weird sound your not going to need a survey done to determine its rotten and your probably going to shy away from it (I hope).
As im sure your not wanting to fork out a survey at every boat you look at, if you tell us what your leaning toward alot of guys keep there eyes open for boats on this forum which is what makes SFBC so great.
good luck wolf
Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com
As im sure your not wanting to fork out a survey at every boat you look at, if you tell us what your leaning toward alot of guys keep there eyes open for boats on this forum which is what makes SFBC so great.
good luck wolf
Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com
This is a great website and I really appreciate the advice and info I've been getting. Thanks, guys.
I checked with my insurance agent and she indicated that a survey was not required unless the boat was more than 15 years old. Since I don't plan on a boat that old, I've got some leeway there. Still a good idea though.
Wolf, it's a long story but here goes: I sold my 18' bowrider a few years back but got the boat itch pretty bad last summer so had decided to pick up a nice, simple open boat (maybe a Whaler style) to fish the local waters.
The Missus (She Who Must Be Obeyed) thought that was a pretty good idea but maybe, if I was going to spend the money, I should look at getting something she could go out in and be "comfortable". Well, we all know what that means for the ladies - a head and someplace to get out of the rain and wind. So at that point I switch to looking for a 21'ish walkaround with head etc. like a Striper 2101 or Trophy 2102.
We looked at a couple and she thought they were too small inside (she's a little claustrophobic) so NOW I'm up to a 24'ish pilothouse style like a Skagit Orca or Trophy 2359. I even considered a C-Dory (yeah, I know). Lots of room, got all the amenities and can spend a few days out in some comfort. Amazing how I went from a few thousand $$$ to many, many thousand $$$ just like that but as they say, If Mommas happy, everybody's happy.
Anyway, that's where I'm at right now. There are a few around but not a lot and they are spendy. We'll see how it goes. Like I said, I'm in no hurry.
I checked with my insurance agent and she indicated that a survey was not required unless the boat was more than 15 years old. Since I don't plan on a boat that old, I've got some leeway there. Still a good idea though.
Wolf, it's a long story but here goes: I sold my 18' bowrider a few years back but got the boat itch pretty bad last summer so had decided to pick up a nice, simple open boat (maybe a Whaler style) to fish the local waters.
The Missus (She Who Must Be Obeyed) thought that was a pretty good idea but maybe, if I was going to spend the money, I should look at getting something she could go out in and be "comfortable". Well, we all know what that means for the ladies - a head and someplace to get out of the rain and wind. So at that point I switch to looking for a 21'ish walkaround with head etc. like a Striper 2101 or Trophy 2102.
We looked at a couple and she thought they were too small inside (she's a little claustrophobic) so NOW I'm up to a 24'ish pilothouse style like a Skagit Orca or Trophy 2359. I even considered a C-Dory (yeah, I know). Lots of room, got all the amenities and can spend a few days out in some comfort. Amazing how I went from a few thousand $$$ to many, many thousand $$$ just like that but as they say, If Mommas happy, everybody's happy.
Anyway, that's where I'm at right now. There are a few around but not a lot and they are spendy. We'll see how it goes. Like I said, I'm in no hurry.
Charlie
Well-Known Member
Okay, so now you get another 2 cents! [:0]
Having the “Missus” involved usually = nicer boat!
I am a little familiar with the boats you just mentioned! All nice boats! The first ones mentioned basically all have the same deep V hull design and deadrise (The measurement of the angle between the bottom of a boat and its widest beam. A vessel with a 0º deadrise has a flat bottom, high numbers indicate deep V shaped hulls.). They will give you a nicer smoother ride in any rougher waters. There are many on here that have those boats!
However if you are thinking C-Dory, not many on here will have one. That would be as it is a modified V hull, with little deadrise - unless you are talking “Tomcat”? The C-Dory comes up on plane easily and is very economical - nice boat, and it is a great boat for the “inner” waters and lakes, but “offshore” (unless it is the “Tomcat”), I personally would have to pass. You will be bounced around a “lot” and the Missus might like the space (at anchor), but she really isn’t going to like the ride getting there with any chop or swells? C-Dory owners are usually a very dedicated bunch. The website forum is called C-Brats if you want more informaton.
Having the “Missus” involved usually = nicer boat!
I am a little familiar with the boats you just mentioned! All nice boats! The first ones mentioned basically all have the same deep V hull design and deadrise (The measurement of the angle between the bottom of a boat and its widest beam. A vessel with a 0º deadrise has a flat bottom, high numbers indicate deep V shaped hulls.). They will give you a nicer smoother ride in any rougher waters. There are many on here that have those boats!
However if you are thinking C-Dory, not many on here will have one. That would be as it is a modified V hull, with little deadrise - unless you are talking “Tomcat”? The C-Dory comes up on plane easily and is very economical - nice boat, and it is a great boat for the “inner” waters and lakes, but “offshore” (unless it is the “Tomcat”), I personally would have to pass. You will be bounced around a “lot” and the Missus might like the space (at anchor), but she really isn’t going to like the ride getting there with any chop or swells? C-Dory owners are usually a very dedicated bunch. The website forum is called C-Brats if you want more informaton.
TenMile
Well-Known Member
Hey Clipper,
If it's Striper's you are looking at, I'd highly recommend visiting the Striper Owner's Club (www.seastriper.com). It is hands down one of the best all-round boating sites on the web with great advice and very friendly people.
We made a very similar decision on a Striper and have a 2600 "Sport Cabin". I wanted something I could handle on my own, yet large enough to head out with the family for weekends. It is a pilot house with a sit down head, and enough room to overnight for 4 of us (last summer we spent 8 night on it in the Broken Group). It has a galley with sink, alcohol/electric stove and a small fridge. The back deck is large enough to fish 3 comfortably. They make it in either an I/O (which I have) or twin OBs (which I'd get the next time because of the larger deck space).
They are somewhat difficult to find because they were only produced for about 4-5 years. You do see them for sale on the Striper site I mentioned. Good pictures and write-up here:
http://www.allisonmarine.com/boats/seaswirl/2002 Seaswirl Striper Sport Cabin.html
TenMile
<'((((><
Yeah, the C-Dory was just a thought. I don't really see me with that type of boat. I've spent lots of time at both the C-Dory and Striper owners websites and there is lots of great info there.
That Striper Sport Cabin is VERY interesting. I was not aware that Seaswirl made that model (you learn something every day!). I'm going to keep my eyes open for one on the market. Thanks.
That Striper Sport Cabin is VERY interesting. I was not aware that Seaswirl made that model (you learn something every day!). I'm going to keep my eyes open for one on the market. Thanks.
searun
Well-Known Member
If you are looking at the Orca, just watch how they installed the one way valve to the toilet. Buddy just bought one brand new 2010...it sunk to the level of the floatation. Apparently cold weather caused the plastic </u>one way valve to crack and allowed water to back feed into hull until the battery failed and no more bilge. A great boat, but before I would buy one that would be something I would demand they change.
Other great boats are:
1) Grady White - I love mine!
2) Pro Line
3) Wellcraft Coastal
4) Pursuit - great boats
Remember this...the 2 happiest days for a boat owner are the day you buy and the day you sell. The in between part is three times as much money and four times as long as you thought it would take to fix it.
Searun
Apparently cold weather caused the plastic </u>one way valve to crack and allowed water to back feed into hull until the battery failed and no more bilge. A great boat, but before I would buy one that would be something I would demand they change. Other great boats are:
1) Grady White - I love mine!
2) Pro Line
3) Wellcraft Coastal
4) Pursuit - great boats
Remember this...the 2 happiest days for a boat owner are the day you buy and the day you sell. The in between part is three times as much money and four times as long as you thought it would take to fix it.
Searun
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