Aluminum Rivet advice in Victoria

NautiGirl

NautiGirl

Well-Known Member
I've been taking on some water lately and decided it's time to fix some rivets and do some sealing on my riveted aluminum. I did some research and it looks like the procedure is to fill the boat with water and mark the leaky spots (done), then drill out the old rivets and re-rivet after putting some 3M 5200 sealer or epoxy on the end of the rivet. My boat has a floor that I don't want to remove and it covers most of the inside and access to the rivets.

It looks like I'll need to drill them out from below and replace them using wide headed, aluminum closed end pop rivets. It looks like I've got about 6 or 8 to replace with only two that are really loose.

I also have a spot at the bottom of the bow "plate" where It's not the rivets so much as the rubber gasket is leaking at the bottom. I would like to reseal the edge of the panels where it meets all the way along each side and at the bow on the plate that connects the panel into the the rounded bow.

Any recommendations for best rivet model/type, rivet supplier, and best sealant/adhesive to use on the outside of my hull for saltwater use around Victoria?

I'm also thinking some of those rivets will spin when drilled. Is a dremel tool cut-off wheel and a punch the best way to get those out from the bottom side only?

Thanks to any with experience in this department.
 
Aluminum rivets are designed to expand inside the hole when hammered, the flexing of the material tends to loosen the holes around the rivet. Thus they become difficult to drill, to my knowledge the best way is to buff off the round head and drive the remains back inside. The replacing of the rivet was a two man task, one on the block and one on the gun.
I believe there is a way using a "Blind pop-rivet" Which is sealed or closed at one end to prevent water getting in. I would look for this type of rivet, if they are still manufactured.
 
K2 fasteners in Burnaby has all sorts of rivets - All sorts of closed end high strength rivets are available - I suggest you do some research on alloys tho... not all 'pop' style rivets are saltwater durable and compatible with 5000 series marine alum.
I have done alot of repairs using closed end rivets on Freightliner trucks - they work well, but you also need to make sure that you get an alum rivet w an alum draw pin. Some pins do not fully draw out of the rivet and leaving any steel from the draw pin behind will be troublesome.
 
If you really want to do it right do not use pop rivets of any kind below the water ...ever.The best way is to pull the floor drill the rivets on. The round end with a numbered bit straight through the middle then knock the end off with a small sharp chisel. Then either go to a boat manufacturer and get the right size rivet a gun and bucking bar and some prc b1/2 from an aviation supply company and put in the rivets wet. You will need a friend to drive or buck the rivets. If they ate big ones you can warm them in the oven to soften them to make them easier to squash. If you just want a quick fix just remove as stated but put all pop rivets in wet and they will definitely rattle loose eventually and fall out possibly sinking said boat.
 
Don't use pop rivets you will not be happy. If you want the job done properly do as KV1 suggested and use solid rivets. Only thing I would add would be to ensure you get the same alloy as what you currently have or something that is compatible with the alum hull. Using the wrong rivet may cause bigger issues for you then what you are currently experiencing.
 
From a former metal worker who use to work on aircraft, I second the use of only solid rivets. It will be a two person job, so you will have to remove the floor. To get the old ones out, I would suggest going to a marine store and purchase the correct size for your boat. This will tell you what size the hole should be. Take a center punch and mark the outside rivet head as close to center as you can. This will keep the drill bit from "skating"and damage the hull of your boat. Using a 5/32 drill bit drill the center in about 1/4 inch. Then take the recommended drill bit size and go down 1/32 size and re-drill again. This will help to keep from enlarging the hole if you are off center at all. You should be able to then take the drill bit and use the base end to pop the rivet head off. Then use a punch to punch out the remainder. I would not recommend using a chisel to remove the head, you might create more damage that way. If you have a spinning rivet, have your partner place a rough file on the opposite side and apply pressure on it. This should stop the spinning rivet. If it does not stop it, then re-buck the rivet to tighten it slightly.

When it comes time to install the new rivets, check the existing rivets bucked head size and try to match that size. If you happen to buck too much, you can always drill it out and replace it. If you buck it too small the rivet might not expand enough to hold tight.

Good luck

Don
 
I called an aircraft mechanic at Cassidy airport and for $100 bucks he replaced almost half of my rivets. I don't know how much the tool is worth but it will most likely be used once.
 
Mighty Sylvan is right. I would help you out but my tools are not at home. As far as the chisel is concerned we do it on aircraft all the time its all about finesse. You should only have to drill once if using the correct bit size the chisel is used to just get rid of the head that is usually stuck on with sealant in floats or pressurized vessels. Tools would be around 200 bucks cheaper if you want to use an air hammer instead of a rivet gun with this method you must be VERY CAREFUL but it can and has been done. Rivets are cheap and I would still suggest using PRC B 1/2 from Aviall or an aircraft supplier it will last forever and is flexible and adjustable for working time. Good luck.
 
Thanks for all the info and so quickly. I'll try to digest all this and discuss with a friend who was a sheetmetal worker in his past life. It sounds like the quick fix is out and the experts and expert tools should be called in. This will cost me more beer, but should keep me afloat.

Any advice on sealant/adhesive?

KV1- was that prc b1/2 a fuel tank sealant at this link? That would definitely put up with any fuel/oil that finds its way into the bilge.
http://www.ppg.com/coatings/aerospace/sealants1/ps_870_class_b.pdf
 
NautiGirl said:
Thanks for all the info and so quickly. I'll try to digest all this and discuss with a friend who was a sheetmetal worker in his past life. It sounds like the quick fix is out and the experts and expert tools should be called in. This will cost me more beer, but should keep me afloat.

Any advice on sealant/adhesive?

KV1- was that prc b1/2 a fuel tank sealant at this link? That would definitely put up with any fuel/oil that finds its way into the bilge.
http://www.ppg.com/coatings/aerospace/sealants1/ps_870_class_b.pdf
Click to expand...
That is a link to PPG yes but as far as the sealant is concerned no. Just call Aviall in Calgary or Vanouver and ask for B 1/2 in a pint jar not a sim kit. That will give you lots to mix and experiment with. It also has a long shelf life. Don't use same tool to mix components and follow instructions to the tee and you will have a tight seal for many years. Come to think of it if you did want to cheap out and depending on how long you were to hold onto said boat some aluminum pop rivets dipped in this stuff plus some on the outside in a nice neat bead would last a long time too. I have fixed tinners in the bush with some large sheet metal screws with PRC and they don't leak a drop to this day years later but that decision is up to you. And yes it is fuel resistant and is used in fuel tanks at all temperatures and conditions.
 
Another thing I thought of is a product called "sloshing compound" I have used it on aircraft floats that leak in hard to reach places and don't have the time or resources to fix. You can also buy this at an aircraft supply shop. It is not cheap but will save you the time of removing and installing rivets but you must have access to the back of the rivet as it has to be brushed or sprayed on. Lots to think about.
 
Thanks KV1 I have learned a lot from your input. :)
 
No sweat glad I could help. I have many tips and tricks for aluminum repairs if anyone needs advice. I got a fiberglass boat only because fixing aluminum for a living has taught me something. Not that both don't have their disadvantages and advantages.
 
This has been a great thread---KV1-always remember that an aluminum boat without fenders is always guaranteed a parking space! lol
 
It looks like that hot sauce commercial. I'll put that **** on everything. Motor electrical, stainless fitting on alum deck, bottom of hull, windows, paint truck wheels that get salted and corroded, toilet bowl.....
 
Have you tried it yet? I might be interested. :)
 
I just saw it when searching for something else. In boat dollars, it looks pretty cheap if it works. I'll be looking into the actual environmentally friendly claims and the claims of how well it resists abrasion. I know that those teflon type coatings are not what we want in the environment. I want to kill fish with my hooks, not chemicals.
 
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