Aluminum boat prices

Blackmax

Well-Known Member
So it turns out I can't afford to down size from my 2005 2101 Striper fully loaded to fish for a 18 foot Aluminum bare boat with a 90 h.p. Yammie. The average price is 44k with a trailer for aluminum plus taxes, by the time you add kicker riggers etc. you are around 55k for a boat that can barely make it across the Strait in a 3 foot chop. I might get 28k for my boat so thats another $27,000 I would have to pay for the aluminum. Yet the salesman is arguing with me about the fuel economy etc. My boat would be close to 80k to replace and its pretty mint condition so I'll be keeping it as I can't afford to downgrade.
 
if u ran a boat alot it would be worth it.... the way i look at it , i would save 3k per year on fuel, and save 30k every 5-7 years on only having to replace one motor instead of two. based on a boat in the same size i am in now, most glass boats have big twins.

its like paying it forward !!
 
if u ran a boat alot it would be worth it.... the way i look at it , i would save 3k per year on fuel, and save 30k every 5-7 years on only having to replace one motor instead of two. based on a boat in the same size i am in now, most glass boats have big twins.

its like paying it forward !!
A very good summary of glass vs aluminum.
 
if u ran a boat alot it would be worth it.... the way i look at it , i would save 3k per year on fuel, and save 30k every 5-7 years on only having to replace one motor instead of two. based on a boat in the same size i am in now, most glass boats have big twins.

its like paying it forward !!

My boat has a single 4.3 GXI inboard and an average outing costs me 40 bucks in fuel including trolling with my Yammie T8. A Thrasher trip for 2 days costs about 120 bucks launching at McDonald Beach. I keep the engine tuned, use synthetic oil and have gone through about 4 props untill I found the Merc 5 blade that works awesome. Also cleaned up all the crap not needed on board to lose some weight. In my case keeping my boat makes most sense.
 
So it turns out I can't afford to down size from my 2005 2101 Striper fully loaded to fish for a 18 foot Aluminum bare boat with a 90 h.p. Yammie. The average price is 44k with a trailer for aluminum plus taxes, by the time you add kicker riggers etc. you are around 55k for a boat that can barely make it across the Strait in a 3 foot chop. I might get 28k for my boat so thats another $27,000 I would have to pay for the aluminum. Yet the salesman is arguing with me about the fuel economy etc. My boat would be close to 80k to replace and its pretty mint condition so I'll be keeping it as I can't afford to downgrade.

Id be interested in looking at a trade for your boat, I have a 18 hewescraft with a yamaha 90 that is in excellent shape if your interested in the idea.
 
That is exactly what I was going to suggest. Going with a used aluminum boat is far less risky than buying an older fiberglass boat. Sure its nice to have the piece of mind and warranty of a factory new boat, but it's only the engines that are a concern on a used aluminum boat. You don't have to worry about a rotten transom or stringers or other hidden problems with an aluminum hull that size. With the savings of going used on an aluminum boat (and fuel) you could pay for a lot of the cost of a new outboard down the road when it needs repowering.

I own an 18 foot aluminum with a 115. It's pretty good on gas, a massive savings over my old boat. Yes the bigger boat can get you across the strait in snotty weather, but how many times a year do you actually do that.

The other thing is you can fish in really nasty weather in a much larger boat. The only thing is, I've never found it to be very productive or fun fishing in 5 foot waves. So the compromises, aren't that big a sacrifice.

The big bonus with an aluminum boat is you can launch the boat by yourself even at our lousy ramp in Vancouver at low tide. If you fish by yourself very often there's a lot to be said for a smaller boat. It is no problem going solo launching or fishing from an 18 footer. It is way more doable than in a much larger boat.

Everything in life is a compromise. Really you need about 4 different boats if you fish fresh and the salt, but an 18ft aluminum is good for both. You can even use it for a ski boat if you have kids. Just something to think about.
 
Keep looking...... Neighbor just bought a Hewes with yama 150 / 40hrs for 30k. It was brand new new been in salt.
 
That is exactly what I was going to suggest. Going with a used aluminum boat is far less risky than buying an older fiberglass boat. Sure its nice to have the piece of mind and warranty of a factory new boat, but it's only the engines that are a concern on a used aluminum boat. You don't have to worry about a rotten transom or stringers or other hidden problems with an aluminum hull that size. With the savings of going used on an aluminum boat (and fuel) you could pay for a lot of the cost of a new outboard down the road when it needs repowering.

I own an 18 foot aluminum with a 115. It's pretty good on gas, a massive savings over my old boat. Yes the bigger boat can get you across the strait in snotty weather, but how many times a year do you actually do that.

The other thing is you can fish in really nasty weather in a much larger boat. The only thing is, I've never found it to be very productive or fun fishing in 5 foot waves. So the compromises, aren't that big a sacrifice.

The big bonus with an aluminum boat is you can launch the boat by yourself even at our lousy ramp in Vancouver at low tide. If you fish by yourself very often there's a lot to be said for a smaller boat. It is no problem going solo launching or fishing from an 18 footer. It is way more doable than in a much larger boat.

Everything in life is a compromise. Really you need about 4 different boats if you fish fresh and the salt, but an 18ft aluminum is good for both. You can even use it for a ski boat if you have kids. Just something to think about.

Absolutely agree BG. My 20ft Alumaweld was bought in Oregon in 2008 for $32,000 . A bit underpowered with a 115 4 stroke, but cruises at 25 mph with a full load ( Three adults, 200 liters of gas and a honking BIG cooler full of ice, plus lunch and gear. ) yes-- I can get kicked around in the nasty short chop we get , but if its nasty-- I am retired and I wait for better conditions. I would never go back to glass.
 
Absolutely agree BG. My 20ft Alumaweld was bought in Oregon in 2008 for $32,000 . A bit underpowered with a 115 4 stroke, but cruises at 25 mph with a full load ( Three adults, 200 liters of gas and a honking BIG cooler full of ice, plus lunch and gear. ) yes-- I can get kicked around in the nasty short chop we get , but if its nasty-- I am retired and I wait for better conditions. I would never go back to glass.

I bought my 19' Alumaweld out of Oregon a few years back, Honda 90 and 9.9 with electric start and controls for $18k out of Oregon 3 years back. Both engines were just over 200 hours, added downriggers and an Ace puller and haven't looked back. Didn't even have to go pick it up or deal with any border hassles, the seller looked after it all and delivered it to the Lower Mainland, there's lots of deals to be had if you have some patience. Buying anything new is crazy, doesn't matter if it's a boat, camper, vehicle or any high dollar toy.
 
Ill be putting my 17'6 Harbercraft center console on the market some time over the winter/spring if you want a project boat!
 
That is exactly what I was going to suggest. Going with a used aluminum boat is far less risky than buying an older fiberglass boat. Sure its nice to have the piece of mind and warranty of a factory new boat, but it's only the engines that are a concern on a used aluminum boat. You don't have to worry about a rotten transom or stringers or other hidden problems with an aluminum hull that size. With the savings of going used on an aluminum boat (and fuel) you could pay for a lot of the cost of a new outboard down the road when it needs repowering.

I own an 18 foot aluminum with a 115. It's pretty good on gas, a massive savings over my old boat. Yes the bigger boat can get you across the strait in snotty weather, but how many times a year do you actually do that.

The other thing is you can fish in really nasty weather in a much larger boat. The only thing is, I've never found it to be very productive or fun fishing in 5 foot waves. So the compromises, aren't that big a sacrifice.

The big bonus with an aluminum boat is you can launch the boat by yourself even at our lousy ramp in Vancouver at low tide. If you fish by yourself very often there's a lot to be said for a smaller boat. It is no problem going solo launching or fishing from an 18 footer. It is way more doable than in a much larger boat.

Everything in life is a compromise. Really you need about 4 different boats if you fish fresh and the salt, but an 18ft aluminum is good for both. You can even use it for a ski boat if you have kids. Just something to think about.
Well said!
 
I'd way rather fish or Navigate in a 21' Striper vs an 18' aluminum in the straight. All things considered. Far more comfortable, worth the costs alone. Maybe finesse the boat a bit, cut back on cargo, weight, etc. Downgrade IMO, coming from someone that fishes out of a 20' aluminum.

You go to an 18' tinner you will realise it is much less practical as a fishing platform. Maybe in nice weather but that is only part of the time during fishing!
 
Way cheaper than Silver Streak and a much nicer boat too :)
I've been peeling my eyes for a used one and haven't been able to find one yet. Most original owners just sell it within family or friends. Buying a brand new one doesn't fit my tax bracket, unfortunately. :(
 
Here's another perspective for you guys. I have built or participated in the building of over 200 new aluminum boats from 13 - 36 feet. I can't even guess the number of boats I have repaired, modified or fabricated accessories or designed improvements upon. My grandfather started building some of the first welded aluminum commercial fish boats in Albion in the sixties. That business became known as Shore Boat Builders once he took his leave and name from the business.

I've been on the BC ocean my entire life. Through commercial fishing, sport fishing, and logging careers I have worked and fished on aluminum, steel, fibreglass, and wood boats in some of the worst conditions that this coast can throw at us.

Earlier this year, I debated building my own personal aluminum boat with everything I've dreamed up over the years to be the perfect boat. We spent quite a bit of time agonizing over the planning and arrangement of it. In the end, I actually decided, with the input of my family on a 23' glass boat. BC built.

Why, you may ask? For our family and my bag of skills and tricks, it simply made more sense. Mainly financial reasons followed closely by the fact that the build would be taking away significantly from time on the water. The logistics of a build that would have to take place in another location separate from my residence were a big deciding factor, but not the final death blow to the proposed plan. In the end, after purchase, survey, transport, mechanical and electronic upgrades, plus other mods to make her ours, we were close to forty grand savings for essentially the same marina footprint. Keep in mind that savings is only facilitated by the fact that I would work for myself for free. Add labour costs into it and the fiscal savings come close double the original forty grand. Sure, this is comparing used to new, but if we compared new to new, the savings would still be close to 50 grand based on charging a ridiculously low labour rate of $50/hr to the project.

First and foremost, there is no longer any original or truly innovative ideas in boat design. I have said for years that it is all based on theft (borrowing if you wanna sugar coat it). One other thing that is dead in this industry is honesty. Other than the fact that all these guys honestly want is your money and then for you to disappear. What you hear from the clean dudes up front is NOT what they say to those of us on the shop floors when your back is turned boys and girls.

After the things that I have seen from insurance claims, accidents, normal wear and tear, etc on 'reputable' production aluminum builders' boats, there is no way I would purchase one! EVER! Maybe from a custom builder, but ONLY after a thorough inspection of the manufacturing facility and discussion with the welders, provided I hadn't already been in the shop in the past. I am an interprovincial pressure welder who started in the marine industry, so I don't really need to talk to them, just watch for a bit.

Without using manufacturer or model names, I really am amazed at how well the low end production welded aluminum manufacturers have managed to bamboozle the general fishing/boating public into thinking that with a little bit of paint, polish and a few made up marketing buzzwords these under designed, angular, awkward looking boats are the only answer and best way to stay safe on the water! This is also true of some custom builders too.
And succeptible people buy in hard based on brochures, paid spokesman and salespeople with no understanding of scantlings, welding or what is known as 'good boat building practise'. There was a time when aluminum boats weren't painted and polished, and there were a lot fewer manufacturers. Those manufacturers were putting a lot better product out back then, because you couldn't hide the sin as easy! I dare to venture that many of you would be shocked to find out him much body filler is used in the finishing processes of your bulletproof baby. Or just how much material is removed in the fairing processes after careless welding. Painters and body men are cheaper than competent welders. Reality in the production aluminum boat industry is that the majority are not competent, just shop trained. Think of it this way. Just because you can pull the trigger on a MIG gun doesn't make you a welder, just like pulling the trigger on a Barrett .338 Lapua doesn't make you a competent marksman or sniper. Both require education, training and significant 'trigger time'.

If you are in the market for an aluminum boat, do you know what the defects 'cold lap', 'crater crack', 'hot shortness' are and what the consequences of just these particularly prevalent defects in just about every small aluminum production boat. Just because it has a weld on it doesn't make it strong, especially a chine extrusion that is only welded on one side.

In making my statements above, I am not saying that fibreglass is the only or best way to go either. The fibreglass industry has some of the same problems and you really have to do your homework with them too! It just works better for my family and I.

You know how loud an aluminum boat is! ALL THE TIME! Even out of the water on the trailer. Without serious investment, they will always be that way. Glass boats over 20 feet are unquestionably quieter.

Ali hull designs for boats under 30 feet are really corky and bounce every which way, but calm stomach, lol! A glass or wood boat of the same hull dead rise is going to be smoother in identical water.

Aluminum hulls are generally wet; water over the bows and sweat inside! This again can be remedied with significant expense. Glass or wood? Better bow shapes are able to deflect water to the sides and they just don't have the same amount of sweat on interior surfaces as they generally are better insulating materials.

Just look at the lines on 90 percent of the aluminum boat industry's offerings. Why do they all look like awkward, ugly ducklings, with the exception of a select few custom builders and designers? Glass boats have the smooth graceful lines, rounded corners and radiused edges.

We all know what cavitation is and what it can do to to props and fuel economy. Just look at the structure on the bottom of production aluminums and how they are attached to the hulls. There has been lots of hydrodynamic research done by motor manufacturers with regards to this, but it is common practice to stitch weld straking and keel doublers, if they are even installed. Additionally a number of manufacturers actually just terminate the angle or extrusions leaving an open end. This practise can be acceptable, but not ideal, on outer strakes that terminate at the aft end of bottom plating, but definately not for centre strakes that terminate up to four feet ahead of the propeller, depending on hull size. Sealing these strakes and blending their shape to the hull to prevent induced cavitation takes time, which costs money. Neither have a comfortable place in a production environment. This practise introduces air into the water that the propeller generates forward motion from. The strake and/or keel doubler section that is above the water surface during planing acts as a venturi, drawing air under the hull. Design Flaw? Mercury's engineers believe so, especially in the field of waterjet propulsion. Look at straking on a glass boat and you won't find anything but smooth, unbroken surfaces along these structures.

It is simply amazing how many aluminum boat owners have to load their boats with so much ballast to simply achieve a 'comfortable' ride much less a good one. Look around a bit, some designers have even taken water ballast technology from wakeboard/surf boats to tame their designs in inclement weather. An interesting way to deal with the issue, but still intrinsically a design issue with planing hulls.

There are so many more points and issues to discuss, but really it comes down to what works for you. Spend time to educate yourself. Glass boats have their place and purpose, as well do aluminum. If you make your living on the ocean, beat your stuff hard and don't like to spend any time cleaning or making pretty, then naturally aluminum. But that kind of guy isn't generally running an 18 footer with .102" sides and a 3/16" bottom. He's going to be running a purpose built, custom floating tank!

Fibreglass is cheaper to get into whether new or used. Rot can be an issue, but a lot of glass boats have used no wood at all in their construction since the mid to late eighties.

Aluminum is cheaper to dispose of at the end of service life. But there is so much more than just aluminum to deal with at the end of a boat's life.

Fibreglass boat of identical dimensions can be significantly more fuel hungry and require more power than aluminum counterparts.

The Big Guy is totally right in his statement that a guy really needs multiple different boats to suit each primary use.

BlackMax, I laughed at the offers to trade aluminum Hewes for your Striper. Seems you are realizing that while fuel costs may be a little higher, it would be similar to trading in a Land Rover for a Lada Niva! Both will get you there, but how comfortable do you wish to be?!?! Can't blame guys for trying to get into a higher quality, good looking, seaworthy hull though! I had to make a really tough decision between a 23' Striper and the 672 we eventually purchased. That final decision basically landed in the wife and daughter arena. If they're comfortable on board and like that boat best, they'll come out with me more and that's the whole idea right. Family time. Leaving them the final choice gave my ladies ownership of our new vessel too.

So after a long drawn out statement like this, it still basically comes out to the old argument of Ford vs Dodge vs Chev!
 
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Well said rednex
Totally agree with the current quality of production Aluminium boat builders.
Last boat show was an eye opener seeing how much poor craftsmanship was being flogged of by so called quality builders......
Marketers have done one hell of a job selling cool-aid and joe average is drinking it in spades
 
Heck of a read Rednex3. Thank you for taking considerable time to put that knowledge and experience forth. Lots of great info there.
 
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