9.9 stalling with acceleration

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evenrude 9.9.

Last time I used it in July I had a bad fuel line connection. I would lose pressure and have to adjust the connection and pump the primer.

So I replaced the connections. Starts up and idles fine now. When I put it in gear it runs a lowest idle but as soon as I accelerate it stalls out.

Ideas?
 
I would start by cleaning all the jets in the carb. If it’s dying on acceleration my guess would be the accelerator pump, go figure eh. Sometimes the diaphragm on in the bottom of the carb goes or the actual jets get plugged up and can’t shoot the fuel needed for acceleration.

What year is the motor?

Bucket.
 
Early 80s I would say.
It’s on my tinny. Gets used about 3 weekends a year.
Never had an issue with it.

Starts and idles great.
Throttle is like I’m choking it out
 
I had a similar situation years ago on my 9.9, stalled when trying to throttle up. I found I could keep it running by squeezing the primer bulb. My fuel pump was failing, replaced it and the motor ran great again.
 
It is most likely a dirty or carb in need of a rebuild. It could also be the tank vent or fuel line air leak (sucking air) problems including a bad squeeze bulb, old fuel line and clamps/connector problems. Try running it under load at speed with the filler cap off and see if that solves the problem which would suggest the vent or sucking air leaks solved by less back pressure with the cap off - the fuel line air leaks may suck less air. If it is a fuel pump issue, a rebuild kit is a lot cheaper than a new pump and I found it an easy job to do, at least with my Yami kicker.
 
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Pull the plugs look for rust and water on them .Shine a light inside cylinder and look for new looking metal or driplets of water.After several times of stalling will the motor still start?head gastget allowing spirts of water into the cylinder while under more preasure from water pump.head gastget 15$ ,The Right Stuff 35$.Tork 2 center bolts first of the 6.Watch you don't plug the thermostat port .
 
I’m at Cowichan Lake For the weekend so have had time to mess with it.

Looks to be carb related.
I can troll with choke in but have to pull it out as I accelerate. Runs top speed with choke pulled out.

Off to shop when I get home.
 
Just do it yourself. There is nothing to taking off a carb and cleaning it out. Just be careful with the main body gasket so you can reuse it.
 
If you do decide to rebuild the carb yourself .The recoil of the pull cord is tricky. pull some cord out,grab a fist full of recoil parts in your left hand , loosen center bolt (dont remove the bolt from recoil housing),have duc tape ready to wrap recoil assembly and bolt to secure all parts together once in your fist ,and removed the length of cord you pulled.there is a pin thats part of the recoil base at the bottom that must fit in a small hole in the block on reinstalation and the spring for the (dog or paw ) for the in gear start ,must be where you found it or you have to undo (dont remove) the center bolt out again.Quick silver powertune and carb cleaner for clean up of parts is your friend for carb rebuild ,and "where did that little red straw go for the cans of cleaner?" .
 
Just do it yourself. There is nothing to taking off a carb and cleaning it out. Just be careful with the main body gasket so you can reuse it.
Profish is correct.. U tube has a couple video's.... there is also a little o ring that u need to be care removing it to one of the linkages on the backside.. beside that easly pizzzie :)
 
The oil ring on the linkage is on a 9.9 Yamaha 4 stroke. This is an older 80's 9.9 Evinrude 2 stroke. There is a good video on youtube where they show you how to remove the recoil starter and keep it together as one piece while you have it out of the way to access the carb. The video is called Evinrude Johnson 9.9 15 carb service & Evinrude 9.9 part 2(started for the first time in years) The 2nd one shows you the inside of the carb, cleaning etc,
 
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I had 2 of these motors from 1976 until now. Great engines. One thing that did happen often in the old days was that one spark plug would die. If you grounded it and pulled the cord it would show spark but would run on one cylinder above idle. This problem pretty much went away when I switched to NGK plugs. Always try the easy stuff first. Change plugs and give it a shot.

Also, I always add Stabil (or equivilent) and Seafoam to every tank of fuel in any small engines. I have never had a carb problem in the dozen or so small engines I own since I started doing this.
 
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