4000 Dollars for an impeller change???

[gungadin]

Actually that's what it might cost my friend if he gets it changed on his 200 hp Yamaha. Why so much? The shaft that drives the water pump is seized in the power head. In order to get it out the dealer tells him they need to cut the shaft and remove the power head. Replace the shaft, water pump etc and reassemble. Estimated cost $4000+. OUCH!!. Not something he can absorb right now unfortunately. and the pump is still working.
I had a suggestion that would get him home in the event of a pump failure and I would like to hear what others think about it and of course if there are any alternatives.
Because his motor can be flushed with a garden hose (60psi) without running the engine, I have suggested that he run a pipe over the stern with a fitting facing the bow and in the water stream at cruise and attach it to the flushing port. There would be a pressure reducing valve that would reduce the pressure to 45 psi. When idling he could attach a wash down pump. This setup would only be used in the event of a pump failure and with the realization that it would be to get home only and with the understanding that more permanent repairs are now in order.
Any thoughts appreciated.

 

[TheBigGuy]

OMG, unbelievable. My only suggestion to get the most life out of the current impeller is for him to flush the motor in a freshwater drum after every use in the chuck. Add clean motor oil to the water and bump it into gear briefly to mix the oil into the water. It lubricates the impeller and will hopefully extend its life until it is replaced. Sorry that's all I can suggest, bad luck for him.

 

[spring fever]

Have someone else look at it!!!

 

[triplenickel]

OMG, unbelievable. My only suggestion to get the most life out of the current impeller is for him to flush the motor in a freshwater drum after every use in the chuck. Add clean motor oil to the water and bump it into gear briefly to mix the oil into the water. It lubricates the impeller and will hopefully extend its life until it is replaced. Sorry that's all I can suggest, bad luck for him.

If the oil is floating and your intake is under the surface how does oil get in there? Are you putting enough oil into the drum so the floating layer will cover the whole water intake? How thick of a layer floating before you bump it into gear and stir it up? What do you do with the water when you're done? No concern with where the oil in the WP goes next time you use the boat?


Get a second opinion, deal with the inevitable repair then get him changing it himself every other year with lots of anti seize on the splines and leg bolts.

 

[TheBigGuy]

The oil will emulsify when you spin the prop a few times. Put a bucket under the water discharge stream from the powerhead and dump it back into the barrel when done flushing. I usually add salt away for extra corrosion protection. Keep the solution covered and you can reuse it several times. After your done with using the solution let it sit a few days, the oil will separate and float to the surface. Skim the oil from the surface with absorbent fuel spill pads when you are done with the flushing solution. Once the oil is skimmed off I have a sump that I drain the water into. I mostly only add oil at the end of the season so the impeller doesn't dry and crack during storage. I have no real idea if this is sound mechanical advice. My dad always recommended doing this to prolong impeller life, and I think it helps. Neither of us were marine mechanics, so I can't say for sure, but it sure can't hurt I figure.

 

[triplenickel]

I reckon to get enough oil in there to do any good the WP housing will have to basically be full of it, which means lots of oil in the cooling system which is self draining. Sounds like a messy PITA every time a guy goes out.

 

[bones]

it would only help when at rest. as soon as its turned on its blown out, so why bother

 

[TheBigGuy]

As I said, I don't use it as an everyday procedure. I just use it as part of winterization at the end of the season. And no, its really not that messy. I just figured in his buddies situation it might help prolong his impeller life till he figures out what he's going to do. Definitely not recommending this for after every use.

 

[TheBigGuy]

it would only help when at rest. as soon as its turned on its blown out, so why bother

Because in theory while the boat is in storage for the winter the coating of oil protects the impeller from dying out and cracking. If you think it won't make any diff don't bother. As part of the winteriztion process it takes very little effort to complete, and I figure it is cheap insurance. Why bother fogging your cylinders? Same premise lube is good during storage.

The reason I said you could reuse it was because I never know exactly which will be my last trip of the season. When I know I'm about done for the year I will add oil to my flushing fluid. I leave it in the container for a bit because I could change my mind and squeeze in anther trip before I winterize.

 

[79 Jimmy]

If you really what to go that route, get some water soluble cutting fluid for machine shop use. It dissolves in water and is very effective at a very low concentration, approx 5%, just an idea.... I'm a machinist

 

[TheBigGuy]

If you really what to go that route, get some water soluble cutting fluid for machine shop use. It dissolves in water and is very effective at a very low concentration, approx 5%, just an idea.... I'm a machinist

Nice to have a pro's input, thanks.

 

[Wild Bill]

Probably maximum estimate. I'm sure they know what usually happens and the most cost effective way to fix it.
A mechanic at a shop rate of $120 ish an hour trying to separate seized pieces. They probably feel it's simpler to cut out and replace.

 

[Hookin'up]

most of those impellers are made of rubber, I would keep the oil away from that, oil causes rubber to swell, soften and deteriorate rapidly

 

[TheBigGuy]

I think thats mineral oil, but I could be wrong.

 

[triplenickel]

Must be a pain to have it sit there dripping out of the prop hub winter all winter too, gonna need a drip pan under there, don't forget to empty it so rain doesn't overfill it if you store outside. Sounds like you're advocating for more of us to knowingly and repeatedly dump oil into our fishing grounds like you do. Didn't expect that from you based on your past posts against every industry. Make sure you follow the same rules for disposing of your soaker pads the industries you rally against are bound by, it's not landfill material. Lemme guess it's ok because it's not that big of a deal, it's just a little bit, or do you preflush before an outing in a responsible fashion? lol

 

[Wild Bill]

I was thinking jet impeller. I bought my outboard with a prop strike and broken driveshaft. Came out easy with gravity. Did they try taking it off to dertimine it was seized? It's just splined.
Housings and studs can get pretty tight!

 

[Wild Bill]

Topmarine.ca has brand new with 3 year warranty complete lower units about $1500 to $1700.
https://www.topmarine.ca/shop/en/ou...oard-lower-unit-90-degrees-v6-2-6l-1/?lang=en

 

[TheBigGuy]

Wow triplenickle this was supposed to be a thread about helping a guy with his motor issues (which I was trying to do). Your making out like I'm the Exxon Valdez. I only use enough oil to cover the surface water of the tank. Were talking a like maybe 4 ounces here not 5 gallons. It creates very little mess take my word. You guys are getting beyond silly with this.

Also, I'm pretty sure impellers are manufactured from nitrile synthetic rubber these days not natural rubber. I'd think you'd have to be dealing with a very old impeller for any oil based product to affect it. Most engine components have not used natural rubber for a very long time I believe.

Why don't you and bones keep the mudslinging to the conservation forum, and leave the constructive posts in the main forum alone.

 

[Aces]

What a bummer about that motor, heard of it quite a bit. Hope it gets resolved in a reasonable manner.

A good lesson here is to drop your leg and lube that gear every 2 years.

I replace my impeller and grease the gear every year but I put lots of hours on.
Great preventative maintenance.

 

[triplenickel]

4oz or less won't do a thing, you may end up with a couple drops in the WP housing it's not gonna do a thing. Saving up to deal with it and then getting on a maintenance program is the answer. Sorry about your friends luck gungadin.