23' & 26' Hourston Project Commenced...

What to do?

  • Try and keep the boat and complete the project.

    Votes: 71 71.0%
  • Sell the boat in current hot market.

    Votes: 8 8.0%
  • Notch the transom for outboard.

    Votes: 5 5.0%
  • Add extension bracket for outboard.

    Votes: 57 57.0%
  • Install twin outboards.

    Votes: 42 42.0%
  • Install single outboard.

    Votes: 27 27.0%
  • Add command bridge.

    Votes: 15 15.0%
  • Remove command bridge.

    Votes: 42 42.0%
  • Accept "crowd funding"

    Votes: 29 29.0%
  • Do not accept "crowd funding"

    Votes: 16 16.0%

  • Total voters
    100
When you layout your plywood for bonding do you want both surfaces smooth or somewhat rough for the epoxies to grip onto?

good question, I sanded both surfaces with 40 grit and clean, clean and clean with acetone, then apply one coat of slow resin to plywood surfaces then wait a couple of hours and apply second coat then apply thickened epoxy. It’s an important step to allow the resin to penetrate the wood fibres. If you skip this step the likelihood of delimitation is increased because, if not, the wood draws the resin from the thickened epoxy thus creating improper bonding.

hope that makes sense... thank you
 
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Well, got the keel exposed and its in mint condition, no rot or soft spots... whew I got lucky! I will leave open to the air for a few days then re-glass back in :)
 

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Hey ppl, hope all is well with everyone, Christmas is literally upon us... so Merry Christmas everyone!

I just wanted to share my findings during the grinding process in preparation for stringer install. So once the grinding started it was discovered that the tabbing had failed to bond to the hull. Over 90% of the tabbing was removed by hand and pry-bar, without too much effort i might add. Knowing this, I would be very hesitant to purchase without either buying for a rebuild project from hull up or being provided detailed documentation that this was adequately done prior. I am not even sure a survey would be able to detect this...?

I have now striped down a 23' and 26', with a 7 year manufacturing gap, and both have the same concern. I am quite surprised that in all my research and readings I have not come across anyone else reporting this. I might add the hull itself is rock sold hand laid without dispute and very well laminated, so Is this common to see in this manufacturer and vintage of boat?
 

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Mine was a 1975 and there was spots that had the same issues. The outside stringers were rock solid, but I did have to take out the last foot of them near the transom to fit the new transom in. Most of the de-laminating was in the area of the fuel tank and motor well area of the inside stringers.
 
Hey guys, casper5280 on another thread had just given me a different perspective on this. I'm not so sure its fair to express the bonding or lack there of as a defect but it kinda displays how well the boats were initially built to last 40+ years and still proven to be a get hull design. I still would be leary to purchase without background and history knowing what I now know. I am so glad that I committed to strip the hull down to the bones :)
 
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FYI... update, stringers are in. Lamination of stringer, keel and transom will begin within the next few days.

IMG_8211.jpeg
 
Also got the stern in-fills completed...

IMG_8199.jpeg
 
May want to take a router and round over the top of your stringers. I cant tell for sure but looks like from the pic the corners are square. You'll be in for a heck of a time trying to lay mat over a 90 outside corner if it's not rounded off.
 
May want to take a router and round over the top of your stringers. I cant tell for sure but looks like from the pic the corners are square. You'll be in for a heck of a time trying to lay mat over a 90 outside corner if it's not rounded off.

hey, yes the top of stringers has to be routered before glass can be laid. Thank you
 
I can't see any limber holes for water to drain to the bilge,important to have some especially in the aft portion.Seal them really well because that is where rot will start otherwise.
 
I can't see any limber holes for water to drain to the bilge,important to have some especially in the aft portion.Seal them really well because that is where rot will start otherwise.

Hey, they are in the back close to transom :) thank you
 
Here is a couple of pic's of the 26'er... It totally gutted and transom is now going in.

IMG_8213.jpeg IMG_8214.jpeg IMG_8215.jpeg IMG_8216.jpeg
 
Got 6 layers of 1708 laid-up on transom...

IMG_8218.jpeg
 
I'm too lazy to look above but what did you use for stringer material? Looks like microlam or something.

Any nibbles on the craigslist ad? Keep up the great work.
 
I am installing 3 x 3/4" marine plywood for transom in the 26'. I have 2 x 3/4" installed and will install other layer of 3/4" ply tomorrow...IMG_8219.jpeg IMG_8220.jpeg
 
I'm too lazy to look above but what did you use for stringer material? Looks like microlam or something.

Any nibbles on the craigslist ad? Keep up the great work.

I used 2 ply 3/4" marine plywood, laminated together with 4' overlay
 
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