23' & 26' Hourston Project Commenced...

Discussion in 'Boats, Motors, Trailers and Towing Rigs Forum' started by Robert Snyder, Sep 4, 2019.


What to do?

  1. Try and keep the boat and complete the project.

    56 vote(s)
  2. Sell the boat in current hot market.

    5 vote(s)
  3. Notch the transom for outboard.

    3 vote(s)
  4. Add extension bracket for outboard.

    47 vote(s)
  5. Install twin outboards.

    34 vote(s)
  6. Install single outboard.

    23 vote(s)
  7. Add command bridge.

    11 vote(s)
  8. Remove command bridge.

    36 vote(s)
  9. Accept "crowd funding"

    24 vote(s)
  10. Do not accept "crowd funding"

    12 vote(s)
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. Eden Island

    Eden Island Member

    My 23 rebuild is ageing well at 14 years. I gave it a 10th anniversary present - repaired and buffed gelcoat, and redid the varnish - but I never find myself wondering how the foundation is. So I can add, knowing its not good money after bad. New chartplotter, OK. Keep the boat and trust it.
    Robert Snyder likes this.
  2. Eden Island

    Eden Island Member

    My boat used to be operated as a charter boat, and the downriggers are mounted more than 3' forward of the transom - see my profile pic. Lots of room to play and net fish, and the bonus...they can be managed without leaving the shelter of the canvas dodger. Cannonballs are mounted on hooks.
  3. zurk

    zurk Active Member

    dude ive been applying it for the last 6+ years lol. its good stuff though.
    you dont need to worry about ratios. just toss all the contents of the small can into the big can and then use a power drill mixer for 2 mins. then let it sit for 20 mins, put it on a solvent resistant roller with big handle and scrub your hull hard with it. once youre done run it over again with the dry-ish roller to pick up any droplets, toss the roller and dump the can into an ice bucket for 90 mins, then repeat the process. If the microplates have locked it will turn crinkely on top of the can in which case take a knife and lift the top surface off and toss it. you can see the hard flaky smooth shard at this point if you want to know what it looks like when it flakes off. once its bonded in a sufficiently thin layer on your hull its fine but if you scrape something the layers will flake off in thin translucent shards but they are hard and brittle. like thin glass sheets. its awesome stuff. highly recommend it but not on topside where gravity can pool the droplets and then you have flaking issues due to thickness. to apply topside you will need to scrub it really thin and make sure it doesnt pool anywhere. if you try and sand when its dry it will just flake off if you catch an edge or crack a layer. wouldnt recommend sanding once applied unless you want to remove it completely.
  4. Robert Snyder

    Robert Snyder Crew Member

    Thanks zurk, that makes sense... I now really think I have been recommended the wrong product! o_O I think I will go with what I know will work which is a coat of epoxy resin, it doesn’t have fill properties but at least I know it is compatible with everything I’m using... :cool: Thank you Very much again for taking the time and sharing your experiences using this stuff...

    would you recommend it for a trailer kept boat?
  5. Robert Snyder

    Robert Snyder Crew Member

    Sorry guys but last week I got side tracked, I was hoping to have gotten more done on the boat than I did. Prepped and sprayed a cap for my son, he is out of my garage so just got it cleaned up today was a bomb shell of a mess...!

    IMG_0492.jpeg IMG_0512.jpeg
    Stizzla and kingblazer84 like this.
  6. zurk

    zurk Active Member

    for the hull ? absolutely. mine is trailer kept as well.
  7. Robert Snyder

    Robert Snyder Crew Member

    Gots a trim tab question?

    From bottom of hull to transom there is about 1/2" radius in the transition. Hull to transom is not square as indicated in Bennett installation PDF.

    Therefore, a little bit of the backing plate's bottom edge "flat bar" is exposed by app. 1/16"-1/8", will this create any planning or performance concerns?

    The bottom of tab is flush with the bottom of the hull but there is just a little void the radius created which is my concern. Should I infill with caulking or raise the tabs above the radius?

    If I move the tabs up I will have to infill 8 holes/per tab with epoxy and drill new ones 1/4" above the old, what say you? :eek:

    Knowing all things I probably should have raised the tabs 1/4" to element this! :oops: I hate following instructions... :mad:

    To make matters worst, I think I have a hair line crack in the top of the starboard head bracket, would anyone have one kicking around that I can reclaim? I think all the sealant I used will prevent water from going into the system but better to be on the safe side...

    Screen Shot 2020-08-03 at 6.36.36 PM.png
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2020 at 7:06 PM
  8. Captain PartyMarty

    Captain PartyMarty Well-Known Member

    You don’t want to raise them up. I would just fill the gap or just leave it
    Robert Snyder likes this.
  9. Rayvon

    Rayvon Well-Known Member

    Should be fine,wouldn't hurt to fill the radius with caulking.
    Robert Snyder likes this.
  10. Doubleheader

    Doubleheader Active Member

    I would run some 5200 in areas of concern and run er. They will work fine, may create a bit of spray depending on mounting height but a swim grid or in my case a kicker bracket on stbd side and anchor buoys on port stops the spray onto main engine.
  11. Robert Snyder

    Robert Snyder Crew Member

    Hey, @Rayvon this is the sample board I was talking about, I use it to test compatibility, cure time and hardness on the 3 fairing compounds that I have been using...

    As mentioned the TotalFair with an epoxy skim prep'ed will receive/bond with gelcoat... Duraglass and Profill has no issues what so ever with either epoxy or polyester bonding.:eek:

    Screen Shot 2020-08-05 at 7.57.03 PM.png
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2020 at 7:49 AM
  12. Robert Snyder

    Robert Snyder Crew Member

    Good luck trying to rip these suckers out :eek: 3" x 3" x 1/4" CNC'ed SS backing plates for the 1/2” eye & shank w/nylon lock nuts ... :rolleyes:

    IMG_0580.jpeg IMG_0581.jpeg IMG_0583.jpeg IMG_0579.jpeg
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2020 at 5:14 PM
  13. Aces

    Aces Well-Known Member

  14. Robert Snyder

    Robert Snyder Crew Member

    did you use 6” or 8” cleats? 6 “ cleats $20, 8” cleats $53 :confused: 6” should be fine, no? Not sure what OEM was... they are only really fender holders :D lol

    also, what’s a good fuel fill with key and vent? What’s everyone else using...?
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2020 at 5:18 PM
  15. Aces

    Aces Well-Known Member

    I have an 8 inch on my springers and a 6 in on my sterns. They were oem, i believe
  16. Robert Snyder

    Robert Snyder Crew Member

    thx buds ;)
  17. Robert Snyder

    Robert Snyder Crew Member

    So, I just painted the topside today and will hopefully have it all together in 2 weeks, who wants to take the lead on the crowd/go fund me POD? :) Single 300/350 Zuke/Yami /Merc w/kicker as I don’t have the room for twins with the 9x24 trim tabs...
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2020 at 6:28 PM

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