23' & 26' Hourston Project Commenced...

What to do?

  • Try and keep the boat and complete the project.

    Votes: 71 71.0%
  • Sell the boat in current hot market.

    Votes: 8 8.0%
  • Notch the transom for outboard.

    Votes: 5 5.0%
  • Add extension bracket for outboard.

    Votes: 57 57.0%
  • Install twin outboards.

    Votes: 42 42.0%
  • Install single outboard.

    Votes: 27 27.0%
  • Add command bridge.

    Votes: 15 15.0%
  • Remove command bridge.

    Votes: 42 42.0%
  • Accept "crowd funding"

    Votes: 29 29.0%
  • Do not accept "crowd funding"

    Votes: 16 16.0%

  • Total voters
    100
I thought they were out of business now too?
Not sure what happened to them. They might have went out of business. The boats they built were bullet prof 17 foot centre consoles. I was shocked how they built brackets and amazed how well they hold up. If I was going to put a bracket on another boat I would build one myself. Integrated full swim platform and kicker mount
 
Thing is all pods are built custom for all boats and all boats are different unless its a same boat and model re dead rise,weight etc Robs boat now with all he has done is going to be heavier etc For instance my boat who had same model podded his and turned out pod was to big and he had to put a bunch of lead in it to "balance" out the boat
Personally from what I have seen over the last 15 years re pods if I were to have one it would be a "step up " pod as it seems the perform the best and I would add more inside angle so motor can be trimmed in further you can always trim motor out.
 
So Robert.. The information in the second set of quotation marks sounds like someone who has built a pod before and not you. What I tried to get across to you in an earlier post is the one I built is the same as this author suggests. Matching the bottom V, transom angle, about 20 degree rake upwards (mine is 2.5" rise at 30" length), swim platform slightly higher at rear. I was sick of fiberglassing and I'm not building something to leave my great grandchildren so I just built a glass covered wood swim platform however it wouldn't take much extra with your skills to do one in glass.
So I assume you are in the shop laying up your newly built mold and expecting some update pictures soon!


Honestly building my own POD, It scares me ALLOT!:oops:

" this will be largely a learning experience for me. I would love to build a bracket just because I want to make one myself but the bracket is probably the most structurally stressed part on a boat (on par with the transom). In my opinion, proper engineering/design and good workmanship are very relevant when it comes to a bracket build."

"When I build mine I match the transom angle of 13 degress to the back of the bracket outboard mount and run them parallel. The swim platform top is on the same plane as the boat deck or slightly elevated at the rear aft. The bottom I have done it two different ways, one matching the center panels at the same degree and one matching the bottom vee panels at 20 degrees. It will look better and gain better flotation if the bracket matches the panels and the boat vee. It mainly depends on how wide you make it to which panels you match. If you make the floatation tub the same width as the outer second panels I would match them. If you make it more narrow I would match the bottom panels like the hermco brackets do. I also built an 20 degree rake on my tub upwards to the rear of the outboard mount side so that as the water rises it will not act as a huge trim tab. This works out to be ruffly a 2" grade up to the rear of the bracket with a 2 foot set back. Doing this will allow you to mount it lower. Most metal brackets have this built in but the fiberglass ones I have seen look to be straight back with out a grade upwards. That may cause you to mount it higher to clear the water passing by it on plane. You loose some volume with the grade but then you gain it back by lowering the mounting height so it will yield more floatation volume back. The volume value between the two styles may not yield much more lift but I like the better looks of the tapered tub and feel like it has less water drag. Setback need at least 24" with most being around 30" or more to allow the motor to go to full tilt. Biggest thing when setting it up to look at is (1) motor height (2) swim platform height & height mounted to the boat (3) How high from the bottom of the hull you will mount it. (4) setback for motor tilt. I start with those 4 factors and then figure the dimensions in between to get the over all height, tub height, tub depth, motor mount ear height, and the angles of the transom and the angle of water rise (about 1.25" for 12" of setback) to determine the other angles that are not matching the hull bottom. Width is a preference but you can gain floatation value to a point then after that it max out then more just adds weight and no lift value."
 
So Robert.. The information in the second set of quotation marks sounds like someone who has built a pod before and not you. What I tried to get across to you in an earlier post is the one I built is the same as this author suggests. Matching the bottom V, transom angle, about 20 degree rake upwards (mine is 2.5" rise at 30" length), swim platform slightly higher at rear. I was sick of fiberglassing and I'm not building something to leave my great grandchildren so I just built a glass covered wood swim platform however it wouldn't take much extra with your skills to do one in glass.
So I assume you are in the shop laying up your newly built mold and expecting some update pictures soon!

lol, sorry just in the Okanagan visiting my in-laws, summer vaca:)
 
Thing is all pods are built custom for all boats and all boats are different unless its a same boat and model re dead rise,weight etc Robs boat now with all he has done is going to be heavier etc For instance my boat who had same model podded his and turned out pod was to big and he had to put a bunch of lead in it to "balance" out the boat
Personally from what I have seen over the last 15 years re pods if I were to have one it would be a "step up " pod as it seems the perform the best and I would add more inside angle so motor can be trimmed in further you can always trim motor out.
Completely agree on the step up. There is some math to building them and yes I have seen some funny looking attempts, mainly wrong angles. I do not think it is rocket science though
I had mine built for extra flotation as my verado was 640 pounds. Now with th lighter 200, it rides better and sits perfect. Sat good before ride is better. Even tried 200 pounds of sandbags before to get the ride I have now
 
Hey, need some help with rub rail replacement. I have Taco part numbers as follows, it will be close to $1500. Anyone with any brilliant ideas for alternatives? I need the rub rail to be rigit so both hull & topside fasten together tight w/gaskets!

64’ Aluminum Rub Rail
6 x 12’/length A12-0303BLY12D 1”5/16 x 7/8” Aluminum Rub Rail
1 x 70’/roll V12-0303 Vinyl Insert
 
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Completely agree on the step up. There is some math to building them and yes I have seen some funny looking attempts, mainly wrong angles. I do not think it is rocket science though
I had mine built for extra flotation as my verado was 640 pounds. Now with th lighter 200, it rides better and sits perfect. Sat good before ride is better. Even tried 200 pounds of sandbags before to get the ride I have now
Yes ive seen some really really bad ones as well not so much now but about 15 years ago when the "trend" was happening , here is a idea for ya Rob looks good to me!!!!!!

oilleak2-jpg.110748
 
Yes ive seen some really really bad ones as well not so much now but about 15 years ago when the "trend" was happening , here is a idea for ya Rob looks good to me!!!!!!

Not sure how to reply to this in fear that this pic is from a member :confused:

I hope I will have a nicer finish but yes it is very practical :)
 
Yes ive seen some really really bad ones as well not so much now but about 15 years ago when the "trend" was happening , here is a idea for ya Rob looks good to me!!!!!!

oilleak2-jpg.110748
Oh fack ya man, sign me up. I'll get out the chainsaw right now and notch my transom lol
 
ok how about this one with only one bolt attachment not welded???im telling ya it could work....and angles be just about right may even move a bit with power...LOL

fetch
 
ok how about this one with only one bolt attachment not welded???im telling ya it could work....and angles be just about right may even move a bit with power...LOL

fetch
When I was researching all I found were backwood pictures and tutorials on how to build stuff like this!
 
When I was researching all I found were backwood pictures and tutorials on how to build stuff like this!

ok, thank you mr. Bill for the time spent researching, looks like a notch then, it will look better than this stuff...:D
 
All kidding aside get the pod built way better for resale value as thats what 99% of the guys want now . Guys are filling in the notch part and putting pods on and where the notch used to be is where they are putting in fish holds or for your case on the lake a big cooler for uuuummmm pop....
 
Just picked up my bow pulpit while in BC, thought I would add some more glass at the nose (5 x 1708 and 2 x cm), a clean up sand tomorrow and that should do it :)

Got the underside all filled with foam and a quick coat of gel to seal'er in....

IMG_0440.jpeg IMG_0441.jpeg IMG_0443.jpeg
 
Hey I just seen this, I think I can beef it up and modify and add a swim grid, thoughts?

107818236_10157358357345779_6044588271500224838_o.jpg 107871290_10157358357380779_7409386753529402570_o.jpg 108089974_10157358357310779_9089701082100615532_o.jpg
 
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