23' & 26' Hourston Project Commenced...

[wolf]

Make sure all that is sealed on the wood IMO kinda of the wrong spot as you want it as low as you can so water can drain out lots of area where water can hold inside (and you will get it in there ) and just a FYI resin the underside of your wood for the deck as any wood has to be sealed up ive seen people do what you have done only later have to redo down the road as its rotted from the underside up . or to solve it just use fiberbglass board yes its picey but wood and resin and time its kinda a no brainer

 

[EZZ70]

Make sure all that is sealed on the wood IMO kinda of the wrong spot as you want it as low as you can so water can drain out lots of area where water can hold inside (and you will get it in there ) and just a FYI resin the underside of your wood for the deck as any wood has to be sealed up ive seen people do what you have done only later have to redo down the road as its rotted from the underside up . or to solve it just use fiberbglass board yes its picey but wood and resin and time its kinda a no brainer

Hey wolf, thank you for all your advise and valued input...

As per previous posts I used a coat of perpetrating resin on underside as well as one layer of 1oz chop mat to seal the plywood, resin alone is not good enough, it will for a short time be ok but only until the plywood starts to expand and contract leaving cracks then moisture will enter raw wood, as resin alone is brittle. For those who are doing/redoing the decks please add a layer of matting on the underside, I know this seems like an added expense but in the long run it will be worth it and stand the test of time...

Also the limber holes do look kinda high in the pictures but keep in mind the upside/on the other side of stringer is not as deep as the face of the stringer in the picture, I will also be adding 4" inspection deck plates in these areas...

Thank you
Rob S

 

[wolf]

AWESOME good work bud wasnt hacking on ya just sharing what ive seen good job .....

 

[EZZ70]

no, no worries, I appreciate all you guys and what each have to offer. I am finding out lots and perhaps improvements to other methods . No sense to always be learning and not teaching/sharing... the added mat on the underside, in my opinion is a + and makes sense, it will keep all the wood fibres together, avoid cracking and add strength.

You can see the mat in below pic, I kept it back about 1/2" - 3/4" as to avoid strands of matting extending beyond the edge and avoiding more timely sanding LOL ... and what's another 5gal of resin to add to the build

AWESOME good work bud wasnt hacking on ya just sharing what ive seen good job .....

 

[EZZ70]

FYI, results of PL vs NoNails while adhering to 3/4 ply poly resin... noNails actually took a chunk of plywood when forced apart where as PL just broke the bond.

 

[EZZ70]

Getting ready to gelcoat underfloor/hull for additional moisture protection before I install the floor...

 

[EZZ70]

All bilge areas has been gel-coated with air dry... ready to install floor tomorrow! Fuel tank will be ready Friday for install.

 

[Wild Bill]

FYI, results of PL vs NoNails while adhering to 3/4 ply poly resin... noNails actually took a chunk of plywood when forced apart where as PL just broke the bond.

View attachment 50533 View attachment 50534

You could always epoxy the floor on, it's never going to have to come apart again! Unless you hole it I guess..

 

[EZZ70]

You could always epoxy the floor on, it's never going to have to come apart again! Unless you hole it I guess..

Yes, epoxy would be the ticket but it’s toooo expensive lol

 

[EZZ70]

I couldn't believe the results so I did the PL vs No More Nails test again!... This time both samples set for a full 24hrs and when pried apart the PL was same, No More Nails actually ripped more plywood than before So why use epoxy? just kidding....

 

[Rain City]

I couldn't believe the results so I did the PL vs No More Nails again!... This time both samples set for a full 24hrs and when pried apart the PL was same, No More Nails actually ripped more plywood than before So why use epoxy? just kidding....

View attachment 50553 View attachment 50554 View attachment 50555

How would a polyurethane like gorilla glue stand up? We've switched to that for most applications on site. I mean if you're testing things thought I'd ask lol. Clearly the NMN is perfectly adequate.

 

[EZZ70]

How would a polyurethane like gorilla glue stand up? We've switched to that for most applications on site. I mean if you're testing things thought I'd ask lol. Clearly the NMN is perfectly adequate.

LOL, If I get time ill try and to do another test, I got master bedroom ripped apart, reno'ing for mama... Working on the boat 5-9 am, house 9-2pm them boat again What day is it anyway???

 

[casper5280]

Saw this for your boat building factory

 

[EZZ70]

Wish this came up before I started to build, I pretty much have all the big stuff done other than Alaskan bulkhead and interior bulkheads... either way I have enough materia, or close to it, to do remaining work, but thank you for thinking of me casper5280

 

[Rayvon]

My last recommendation,if you plan on keeping this boat long term and want to make it even more "bulletproof",fiberglass the deck to the hull.Back in the day your boat was built they wouldn't have thought that to be necessary ,but today it's pretty common on quality boats.Now that you have the connection (deck to hull) exposed would be the time to do it.It shouldn't be too hard to lay up some 6" strips and roll them over the joint.You may have to cut some screws that hold your rub rail on . You might think this is Overkill , just my 2 cents.

 

[EZZ70]

My last recommendation,if you plan on keeping this boat long term and want to make it even more "bulletproof",fiberglass the deck to the hull.Back in the day your boat was built they wouldn't have thought that to be necessary ,but today it's pretty common on quality boats.Now that you have the connection (deck to hull) exposed would be the time to do it.It shouldn't be too hard to lay up some 6" strips and roll them over the joint.You may have to cut some screws that hold your rub rail on . You might think this is Overkill , just my 2 cents.

Great idea! Already in progress... lol I started the lamination a while ago and doing as I go, I’m not a fan of the two part either.

thank you,
Rob

 

[EZZ70]

Some pictures of todays progress...

-I wasn't happy with the flex in the freeboard so I am install a hull stiffener from 4" pvc pipe, also this can be used as a chase way from stem to stern.
-Fuel tank should be ready by end of day tomorrow.
-Floor has been installed and in-filled perimeter

 

[ChilliSpoons]

I sure enjoy watching the progress of your build. And appreciate the fact that you’ve taken the time to photograph the steps showing the progress. Keep up the great work, she’s gonna be a beauty.

 

[EZZ70]

Got the tanks for both boats as planned! Keeping with stock dimensions other than length...

23'er 70" L x 2 baffles
26'er 80" L x 3 baffles

 

[Captain PartyMarty]

What is your engine setup going to be? I am surprised you only have one fuel pick-up