1977 Searay 240 rebuild

IMG_20161007_180517706.jpg I am looking forward to this again. I have the new name and graphics a friend made me years ago for my Hourston but I think "Time Vampire" fits this boat a little more.
 

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Saturday I made up and seal coated all the under deck bulkheads. Today I glassed the outside of the port stringer and tabbed in the port side bulkheads. I am running rigging tubes front to rear on both sides as I hate theIMG_20170423_161552925_HDR.jpg under gunnel rats nest.
 
Got the double floor in and now have an under deck locker for my Hali anchor. IMG_20170424_192946452.jpg
Can't tell by the pic and the bright white gelcoat but it is 14"x 65" and 11" deep. I am doing one on the other side for my ropes and bumpers.
 
How can the days be disappearing so quickly. Fitting and tabbing the plywood is easy, it is the glassing that is killing me. Worst part is five or six layers of glass is still pretty much invisible when done right. My dad came by today and tore apart the storage shelves that run along the cuddy sides and we pulled the partition at the front of the cuddy. There is another 4 feet of boat out there.IMG_20170427_173612066.jpgSo if I do this right I can install some pretty cool rod storage down the port side. Is it bad that my wife is now refering to my boat as "That thing in the driveway"?
 
All new Bano is in place and in need of some glass. Foot room and femur room were minimal so I improved on both by simplifying the construction to a single layer of plywood for the walls and no stupid shelf blocking the window. I need to get the port side finished before I can fit the fuel tank supports in place so I have more things to trip over (and can run the fuel lines).
 
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Today felt productive. Stbd side here I come.
I had to notch my stringers to clear the pod bolts which is a better ccompromise than the 12" long main stringers I pulled so 4" inside them I put my mini stringers to make my sump. Glassing a 4" wide 12" long 17" deep slot is a terrible idea. I don't have the biggest forearms and it felt like brain surgery and every layer of glass made it harder. If I can get the fishwell glassed tomorrow I can start fitting the rear deck on Monday (in theory).

IMG_20170429_210251952.jpg IMG_20170429_210306470.jpg
Dammit it will be functional for the halibut derby May long weekend
 
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IMG_20170430_203135037.jpg IMG_20170430_203129496.jpg This morning I glassed the bottom of the fish well and installed it this evening. I also picked up an osilating cutter. What an amazing thing. Tomorrow we are going to fit the fuel tank so I can sort out the supports and lines.
 
Cutting glass with a grinder involved a paper suit, respirator and huge cleanup. Now with this osilating cutter, cleanup and containment is holding the shop vac nozzle a few inches from the blade.

I glass wrapped all my limber holes for a couple of inches before installing the stringers and bulkheads. I was carefully trimming mat and roving to fit them taking my time and cursing a lot. Now I can just glass over them, come back and cut the glass skin off and sand them smooth. I was coming back to clean up the mat spider web anyway so I can gelcoat.
 
gunnerlove said:
Cutting glass with a grinder involved a paper suit, respirator and huge cleanup. Now with this osilating cutter, cleanup and containment is holding the shop vac nozzle a few inches from the blade.

I glass wrapped all my limber holes for a couple of inches before installing the stringers and bulkheads. I was carefully trimming mat and roving to fit them taking my time and cursing a lot. Now I can just glass over them, come back and cut the glass skin off and sand them smooth. I was coming back to clean up the mat spider web anyway so I can gelcoat.
Click to expand...

Best tool I used! The cuts they make are very precise and clean.
 
Which blade do you find is working good for Fiberglass?
 
Fishwell needs a sand and gelcoat (and fish), fuel tank well got half glassed. I am sitting the tank on glassed in sleepers I figure they will spread the load to the hull well and since it has a bunch of baffles and is 3/16" wall it can span the 12" gapIMG_20170502_180006412.jpg IMG_20170502_194021812.jpg
 
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