1000 Hour Maintenance on Yamaha F50tldr

FisherTim

Active Member
Hello,
I'm coming up on my 1000 hour maintenance (I'm at 927), and though I would do it at 970, because that's when my next 100 hour check is due too.

What can I expect to need, and is it something I can do myself, or should I bring it into a shop(I'd do oils, oil filters, fuel filter, Plugs, etc myself)?

Are there too many Diagnostics involved in it to do it myself?

If I can do it myself, can you tell me what's to do?

Tim
 
If I were you, I would change the plugs, top and bottom lube filters and gaskets.
It's not too difficult to drop the leg (assuming the bolts are free) and check the impeller.
probably a good idea to change it.
You can do yourself for a fraction of the cost a dealer will charge.
 
If I were you, I would change the plugs, top and bottom lube filters and gaskets.
It's not too difficult to drop the leg (assuming the bolts are free) and check the impeller.
probably a good idea to change it.
You can do yourself for a fraction of the cost a dealer will charge.

Gaskets as in for oils, or Head Gaskets?

So, I guess on my List goes as following

Replace:
Oils, Top&Gear(Yamalube)
Plugs,
Oil Seals,
Impeller,
Oil Filter,
Fuel Water Seperator,

Anything else?
 
As long as you've done the regular 100 hr oil changes, check the gear case periodically
for water intrusion the motors are fairly bullet proof.
The one thing I've learned is they like to be run, especially carbed models.
better too many hours , than long sitting periods of non-use.
 
2 schools of thought on timing belts one is do it on the manufactures recommended interval. The other is too do it when it starts too show cracking. For myself on a interference type engine I do it at the manufactures recommended interval. On a non interference engine I'am not as concerned and will let it go till it shows wear. A timing belt is cheap compared too bent valves and other major engine damage.


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As long as you've done the regular 100 hr oil changes, check the gear case periodically
for water intrusion the motors are fairly bullet proof.
The one thing I've learned is they like to be run, especially carbed models.
better too many hours , than long sitting periods of non-use.

Oh Yeah, Mine's an 06, has 927h, and purrs like a kitten. I can't find the size on my prop...
 
The owners manual basically only tells you what to do - The "Service Manual" actually tells you HOW to do it!

The 1000 hour surely does include changing the oil, filters, and gaskets. However, as mentioned you have a timing belt replacement (and other things) due! And, those are more than most know how or want to do? Might be a little time consuming for you, but really isn't that hard. I "highly" suggest anyone doing more than those normal services, go down to your local Yamaha Dealer, find out what manual their service department uses, spend that $75.00 (plus or minus) and order that - "Service Manual"!

FYI... some props are stamped on the end, so try pulling the prop and looking on the end? :)
 
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Ya the more a owner knows about there outbkard the better if you get in a jam. Timing belt and valve adjust are the a bit more involved but all the other items should be able to complete in a afternoon
 
Just thinking out loud here, but 1000 hrs on an automotive engine would amount to 50-75,000 km. Timing belt change would not be on the horizon. I know marine engines run in a different environment and all that, but a timing belt inside a sealed cover would not be subjected to those conditions. Food for thought...

I'm certainly an advocate of acquiring the factory shop manual though. First thing I do when I acquire a new-to-me engine. Not hard to find online and worth the money. Don't the third party manuals that cover multiple years and horsepower ratings, get the engine manufacturer's manual for your model year.
 
I mentioned the t belt because I know on my Yamaha it's recommended too change at. 1000 hours on the 150 four stroke. I don't have a book for the 50 hp motor it could be different. The interval is normally based on mileage or time in automotive applications. In auto engines run in mild climates the belt will often run far beyond it's recommended service life. But as I mentioned earlier if the engine is interference (a design that allows the pistons and valves too contact if out of time) it's a bit of a risk. If the engine freewheels with a broken belt it's just a kicker ride home if it fails.


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