This winter restoration project is now complete. It was disassembled to the last nut and bolt, cleaned, repaired and carefully reassembled using Yamaha OEM, aftermarket or recycled parts where appropriate. These motors are lightweight (65lbs), use a 100/1 fuel/oil mix. A new 12L fuel tank and...
Are you on Vancouver Island? Have you got an older 6 or 8 HP Yamaha 2-Stroke Outboard collecting dust in the corner of your workshop? I need the upper cowl for one, any condition, as long as It’s fixable. I’ll take the whole motor off your hands if you prefer…
You are gonna love those electric Bennet Trim Tabs, and that auto up feature on power off is awesome. That‘s exactly the system that I installed on my own DE rebuild…cannot imagine not having them, now.
AJR Marine Windows in Port Coquitlam is THE place to go. The owner/operator of AJR used to work for Double Eagle - installing windshields - when he was younger, and the products he builds today are top-notch. I had a complete new windshield and side windows made for my 1977 DE Rebuild Project...
You will still need a battery isolator switch. If you check out the Blue Sea “Add a battery“ product, you’ll have the correct battery switch and the matching ACR. Your post mentioned “batteries”, so I’m assuming you have both a start and a house battery in your boat... The Blue Sea web site...
It wasn’t exactly cheap...but the Rhino-Liner should last a VERY long time, and as a result - it’ll be cost-effective.
The guy that did the job on my 1977 17.5 DE charged $1500, but that was a few years ago, so by now you’d probably be looking at somewhere around that price to do just the...
You could consider having the inside of your boat Rhino-Liner’d. I had my DE done with that stuff, it’s durable, pretty much non-skid, and easy to clean. If you’ve had a pickup truck with that product sprayed in the box, you know how tough it is. I had it sprayed on the floors, up the insides...
I went with having a professional spray in closed cell foam on my 17.5’ DE Project, after I had replaced all the stringers and bulkheads and before the floor went in.. If you ever have the misfortune to whack something hard and split or hole the hull below the waterline, that foam will likely...
I went onto greatlakesskipper.com to find an appropriately sized aluminum 110 litre/29 Us gal tank. The original configuration had the fuel filler mounted in the right gunnel, and a 2” fuel hose and smaller vent line exposed and routed across the floor before they both dove down into the tank...
My ‘77 DE had floatation foam - and it was more than just bit of a job to get that waterlogged mess out...so you are lucky that either someone else has already removed it, or it never had it. I had a guy come in and spray-in fresh closed-cell foam into my project when I was ready for it.
Lots...
Just as an alternate idea for consideration, I biscuit-jointed 5/8” marine grade plywood for the floor, sealed all the joints with slightly thickened polyester resin - and then had the entire floor and inside of the boat (sidewalls, and even up under the gunnels) as well as selected areas of the...
Yep, it was. I moved it up on the bracket as far as I could, and then installed a leg extension kit to put the prop back down to where it needed to be.
Where are you located? I’ve recently completed a 1977 17.5’ DE inboard to outboard project..took me quite awhile, but was soooo worth it. If you live near Comox, it may be worth your while to wander by, have a look and compare notes...
This outboard has been completely stripped down to the last nut and bolt, cleaned up, repainted and totally rebuilt to factory specs using as many Yamaha OEM parts as possible, and aftermarket or rescued parts were used when OEM parts were found to be unavailable.
I rebuild these small Yamaha...
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