Are the gear restrictions on this page for fresh water or salt water? https://www.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/fm-gp/rec/salmon-saumon-eng.html
There must be a typo on the website where it refers to a single hook rule in tidal waters. Maybe they intended to say tidal portions of rivers? But it’s mixed...
hook a chain from the lifting eye on the top of the motor to a hoist. Pull the top two bracket bolts. Loosen the bottom two bolts. Hoist 3/4”. Reinstall bolts and tighten. I’ve done it myself in less than an hour. Spent most of that time looking for a bolt for the chain to lifting eye...
Only difference between 25” and 30” on that motor should be the water tube, shift shaft, drive shaft, and the extra extension between the mid housing and the gear case. You will have to take the mid housing off to swap to the longer water tube. Make sure you put the water tube in correctly...
I like the mustad bonk em all bag better than the Calcutta. They are flat/wide on the bottom so they hold more. I had three chinook in the 12 to 15 pound range and a coho with ice in one bag on Sunday. https://mustad-fishing.com/us/product/mb028?size=38%22&colorName=Red&packCode=1+PCS
The cold smoker attachment for the master built works awesome. You can roll a heavy smoke at low temp. It will put some heat in the box, so can’t “cold” smoke.
I have one of these https://m.vevor.com/car-refrigerator-c_10723/vevor-40l-42qt-car-refrigerator-portable-fridge-freezer-12v-cooler-camp-outdoor-p_010939347933
It’s only single zone but has been working great for over a year.
The deck is 1/2” plywood with three 1/2” plywood crossmembers. Here’s a picture of the deck, a crossmember, and a spacer that the factory installed so that the crossmember rests on the top of the stringer.
The deck floats about 1” above the stringers except in a few spots where there are crossmembers. If your bilge filled all the up above the stringers then to water will overflow to the side with the foam. I would get a 5 1/2 hole saw and a couple of deck plates and cut in a couple of plates...
On another note, when you get the boat check out your motor height. If you look closely at this picture you will see that the there is a "step" up and back from the bottom of the boat/drain to the bottom of the transom. Some campions were built like this and some were not. From the top of the...
Here are a few more pictures that might be useful. I made my cut 21" wide in the back, but had to narrow up between the seat boxes. If I was doing it again I might have made the cut in the back deck over the stringer centerline. The deck floats above the stringers except for the three cross...
If your tank is the same as mine, the picture shows the approximate dimensions. I ended up pulling my tank and bringing it to a local builder to have them duplicate it. I had them build it out of heavier gauge aluminum. There are angle brackets at the front and back so the tank is screwed to...
I have started on it. I cut the deck out, removed the tank, and I had a new tank built. I haven't put it back together yet because I'm doing the transom at the same time. Here's a pic of the hole in the deck and a cross section of the deck itself. I can take some more pictures or...
One thing about these old campion explorers is that they built the transom in three separate segments. The center 30" is three layers 1/2 inch plywood. The outside sections are about 24" wide and are only two layers of 1/2" plywood of lesser quality than the center section. The outside...
Are you referring to the lack of compression strength? That's one of my concerns. I'm bolting my outboard through the coosa, so there is risk of crushing the coosa when I cinch it down. I guess I can make the skin extra thick or use aluminum plates to back the bolts on the inside.
I'm doing the transom on my 1995 campion explorer 185. Is it really worth it to use coosa board? Other than coosa's water resistance, is there any other advantage (strength, ease of use, etc)? I asked a couple of fiberglass guys and they say coosa is a no brainer because it doesn't rot and...
I think that’s what he would have to do. Better than hand lining the 70’ with a downrigger ball into the boat. I would probably find something to wrap the 70’ onto (maybe an old reel on a short handle) and put a bungee cord on the downrigger brake while I do it.
That’s when you cut the braid at the swivel. Leave the swivel on the sockeye braid. Lose a couple inches of braid when you switch gear. Maybe you lose a couple feet per year. Could leave a big loop at the end of the main braid and run the sockeye braid through it, but why pull 70’ through...
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