Best rough water boat 24 feet or under

As stated by many already, there a lots of factors. One that hasn't been stated but has become obvious to me, is just MASS. Just physics. That's one of the reasons why most of the boats listed so far are glass. They are much heavier per foot.

HB
 
I really like Robalo. It’s not a boat you see too often here but it’s heavily built and rides very well. I have the 24’ R247 (walk around w/ closed bow) and have been offshore many times in it. It has a 9’ beam compared to many 24’ designs that are 8’ 6”. With twin 200’s the boat weighs approx. 8,000 lbs fully loaded (weighed it on a lift). This is quite a bit heavier than some of the other brands and I think similar in weight to an equivalent fully loaded Grady. The weight definitely helps create a smoother ride in my opinion and can be a proxy for overall build quality. Most lower cost brands are rated as significantly lighter boats. I’m a fan of the Pursuit as well and was close to purchasing one when my existing 24’ Robalo became available. Orca’s & Seasports are top boats as well of course, but I wanted a bit more air movement through the cabin during the summer months. Grady’s are excellent (obviously) but you do pay a premium for the brand name and I’m not a fan of them having no under deck storage (only brand that doesn’t from what I’ve seen). They apparently sealed it off with the idea that owners might want to add an extra fuel tank ... it would seem more logical to me for the default config to have under deck storage ... storage space is always a premium ... but what do I know ... they’ve been building them without it for years. As much as I appreciate the build quality overall, paying a premium price and having no under deck storage didn’t make sense to me given other quality brands available. Boston Whaler is also a great boat but also a premium for the brand name. So for quality/price for a walk around style, Robalo and Pursuit brands seemed among the best value to me. Never a straight forward decision ... within a given quality range, there is often a significant discrepancy in pricing between brands. You have to pay a premium to have the most popular brand but you can often get similar quality in an alternate brand with comparable fit, finish, ride, & functionality at a lower price point. Leaves a bit more for the electronics upgrades :)
 
Have a look at Riptide Marines Saratoga 2685. Technically its a 26 footer with pod but the actual boat is only 23.5 feet. 3276 lbs dry weight without engines. $60K for the hull + $25K rigging. Cant be beat price wise and its a proper cabin boat which can be custom fitted in the interior.
Saratoga-Feb-2019-21.jpg
 
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Like others have said, there is no best boat, everyone is a compromise. A Regulator or Contender will dominate a head sea but will be rough in a beam sea or on the drift. I have guided on my 2470 for 6 years now and can attest to their sea worthiness. But they do have their drawbacks because of the 21 degree deadrise. Just like any boat that has a sharper deadrise, they wont be as stable in a beam sea or on the drift as one with a flatter bottom. Also very sensitive to trim adjustments and running in a beam sea. Just depends what your using the boat for and what you think is "rough water". Most quality boats will take more punishment than the people on board. My top picks would be a 23-25 pursuit, 23 gulfstream, 24 skagit, 25' bertram. I'll add a 24 Northwest Aluminum as well simply because that brand has stood up to the daily abuse from guides out of renfrew for years.
 
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Nobody has talked about the most important factor in how any boat rides. The person on the helm. You can have a very soft riding and stable hull but if driven by someone with no boat skills it can be made to be a rough ride Similarly a less forgiving and more unstable boat can have a comfortable ride if the operator is skilled. I've had my 22 Seasport since new and will have 30 years of knowledge with that hull in 2002. I know its best qualities and also its worst. I've been in every kind of water with it and know from that experience when I can push it a bit and when to back off...when to tab one side down to reduce chine slap from a quartering sea and what speed to run in a following big water to keep from having the bow dig in and launch you hard in either direction. Its like race cars...the car with the most hp doesn't always win...drivers play a key role in the race outcomes.
 
Nobody has talked about the most important factor in how any boat rides. The person on the helm. You can have a very soft riding and stable hull but if driven by someone with no boat skills it can be made to be a rough ride Similarly a less forgiving and more unstable boat can have a comfortable ride if the operator is skilled. I've had my 22 Seasport since new and will have 30 years of knowledge with that hull in 2002. I know its best qualities and also its worst. I've been in every kind of water with it and know from that experience when I can push it a bit and when to back off...when to tab one side down to reduce chine slap from a quartering sea and what speed to run in a following big water to keep from having the bow dig in and launch you hard in either direction. Its like race cars...the car with the most hp doesn't always win...drivers play a key role in the race outcomes.

because we do not know the skill level of the OP, his original question, albeit vague is still the key component.
 
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Nobody has talked about the most important factor in how any boat rides. The person on the helm. You can have a very soft riding and stable hull but if driven by someone with no boat skills it can be made to be a rough ride Similarly a less forgiving and more unstable boat can have a comfortable ride if the operator is skilled. I've had my 22 Seasport since new and will have 30 years of knowledge with that hull in 2002. I know its best qualities and also its worst. I've been in every kind of water with it and know from that experience when I can push it a bit and when to back off...when to tab one side down to reduce chine slap from a quartering sea and what speed to run in a following big water to keep from having the bow dig in and launch you hard in either direction. Its like race cars...the car with the most hp doesn't always win...drivers play a key role in the race outcomes.
Best reply so far, well said
 
Forgot about cats/twinhulls, etc. Had a 14 Livingston; very stable eats the rough great, but having an open bow limits it. I would think something like a Glacier Bay would be great.
 
Forgot about cats/twinhulls, etc. Had a 14 Livingston; very stable eats the rough great, but having an open bow limits it. I would think something like a Glacier Bay would be great.

cats fall off waves in a beam sea when at low speeds. scariest thing i ever felt on a boat.
ran awesome though in a 4' chop.
 
I just bought a 23' Sun Runner hard top with a newer Volvo v6 duo prop. Is is enough? It is a little crowded behind the Alaska bulk head. This was a one owner boat in great condition. Haven't had it out yet. Any info on what tide to launch at McDonald beach?
Thoughts on what you think I should have paid? with Trailer and kicker?

Just curious I figure I got a good deal but ideas?
 
looks like those sun runners are listed at between 13-19k $ on boats com so if you got it in that range its ok. volvos burn $$$ on maint and repairs though. its also not the best rough water boat - it looks like a day cruiser with a lake/river hull. wouldnt want to take that thing on any chop. not even a fishing boat.
the only sun runner i see is a 21 footer on craigslist :
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/rds/boa/d/surrey-ft-sun-runner-boat-trailer/7134603490.html
which is a pile of junk.
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/rds/boa/d/28-sun-runner-express-sport/7103139531.html
which is listed for 25K$ and looks overpriced with no pics so i dunno.
the 22 footer on boats com looks ok at 10K USD/13K CAD :
https://ca.boats.com/power-boats/1985-sun-runner-220-sb-6730066/
but these are all day cruisers not rough water fishing boats.
 
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looks like those sun runners are listed at between 13-19k $ on boats com so if you got it in that range its ok. volvos burn $$$ on maint and repairs though. its also not the best rough water boat - it looks like a day cruiser with a lake/river hull. wouldnt want to take that thing on any chop. not even a fishing boat.
the only sun runner i see is a 21 footer on craigslist :
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/rds/boa/d/surrey-ft-sun-runner-boat-trailer/7134603490.html
which is a pile of junk.
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/rds/boa/d/28-sun-runner-express-sport/7103139531.html
which is listed for 25K$ and looks overpriced with no pics so i dunno.
the 22 footer on boats com looks ok at 10K USD/13K CAD :
https://ca.boats.com/power-boats/1985-sun-runner-220-sb-6730066/
but these are all day cruisers not rough water fishing boats.
images

Like this but with a hard top, Alaska bulk head.
I know the props are very expensive, luckily it came with two spare sets and stainless steel on it. BTW I got for about half.
Fully loaded, it was in a sad sale, no one to use it anymore. With heavy trailer.

New engine and leg used for 12 trips and then parked in a garage for 4+ years. They got a mechanic to get everything working though, I saw the bill.
Boat was garage kept it's whole life.

Don't know much about Volvo legs except the props on these can be really hard to remove. They are pretty popular in Europe though.

Do you think a V 6 is enough? Fuel tanks on the sides?
 
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A buddy has a 22 foot boat with a brand new 4.3 V6 and a Volvo Duo prop leg. Lots of power for what he does and decent fuel mileage as well. I also have a 22 foot Double Eagle with a 5.7 V8 and a Volvo duo prop. More power than the boat really needs but gets great mileage without taxing the motor. Make sure that you remove the props every year and re grease the spindle, then re torque the nuts back on. Makes the props easy to remove when needed, otherwise they can seize onto the shaft.

Take the boat out and see how it performs with the current engine and out drive. Only then will you know if it has enough engine behind it.

Oly
 
Like this but with a hard top, Alaska bulk head.
I know the props are very expensive, luckily it came with two spare sets and stainless steel on it. BTW I got for about half.
Fully loaded, it was in a sad sale, no one to use it anymore. With heavy trailer.

New engine and leg used for 12 trips and then parked in a garage for 4+ years. They got a mechanic to get everything working though, I saw the bill.
Boat was garage kept it's whole life.

Don't know much about Volvo legs except the props on these can be really hard to remove. They are pretty popular in Europe though.

Do you think a V 6 is enough? Fuel tanks on the sides?

Sounds pretty great. A running boat that big with an Alaskan Bulk Head and tune up and stored in doors is better than 99% of the sad driveway stuff out there. Always remember if you bring something on the boat bring something off or you'll end up overloading it!
 
Any
Sounds pretty great. A running boat that big with an Alaskan Bulk Head and tune up and stored in doors is better than 99% of the sad driveway stuff out there. Always remember if you bring something on the boat bring something off or you'll end up overloading it!
if you bring something on the boat bring something off or you'll end up overloading it!

Workin on it ;)


Any tradition to renaming a boat? It has the late owner's daughter's name I thought to change that.
 
Sounds pretty great. A running boat that big with an Alaskan Bulk Head and tune up and stored in doors is better than 99% of the sad driveway stuff out there. Always remember if you bring something on the boat bring something off or you'll end up overloading it!
And if adding weight add it as low as possible.
 
Grady 232 is a Sherman tank! 9’3” Beam.. heavy glass with great dead rise. Twins for sure! I’ve rode in a lot of boats and I own this one now.. absolute Battle Wagon for the East Side VI chop or the West Side VI swell and chop.. great platform for fishing too and anchoring!
 

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