Anyone change their own brakes on their truck?

Sangstercraft

Well-Known Member
My 2016 F150 needs new brakes. The brake shop says I'll probably need new rotors because they make them so thin nowadays, which sounds odd considering I still have a few mm of pad left.

They quote around $2500 for new pads and rotors.

Does anyone here change their own brake pads? The youtube vids make it look pretty easy, and pads are cheap.
 
That is far too much for a brake job and it is easy. I suggest learning it yourself because it's not difficult and you can save yourself a lot of money.

I don't usually promote Ebay sellers but I've had great success with Brakemotive rotors and pads and they are super cheap on Ebay. Drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads (no brake dust) for around $230.00 for your truck. I used them on my F150 for 6 years and my Ram 3500 for the past 3 years with no issues.
 
When I was younger I did my own brakes. On many, especially older North American vehicles disk brakes are easy. The oem rotors are often better quality than many of the after market replacements. If the brakes do not pulse when you hit the peddle the rotors are not yet warped because of wear. If the rotors don't have a lot of miles on them and don't show a lot of wear, (decreased thickness) and are not all marked up and in obvious need of being turned or replaced I have just replaced the pads which is super easy and super cheap to do. In those days it was a judgment call as to if you would get the rotors turned if they needed it or replace them. Turning them removes metal and makes them thinner so that they may dissipate heat less effectively and warp which will give you brake pulse feedback through the peddle. You would need to decide if there would be sufficient metal left after turning that they would not warp from the heat and cooling. Any doubt and I would replace the rotors as it costs to have them turned by a shop. Quality may well have been better then as I have had rotors turned more than once and not have them warp with further use. A repair manual will tell you what the minimum width of the rotor should be.
It was also easier and cheap in those days for a somewhat inexperienced home mechanic to buy rebuilt replacement calipers if they were having issues, (salt pitted pistons/seals leaking etc) and they came with the pads installed. Detach the lines, unbolt the old caliper and bolt on the new one, hook up the lines and bleed the system. It was way cheaper to replace the calipers with rebuilt ones than pay a local shop to do a brake job including rebuilding them.

Now I am old, lazy and money is not the issue it once was so I would pay someone to do it. Even if I was younger I also would think twice on doing the job on my euro sports car as they have all sorts of sensors and crap related to the wheels/ brakes. Stability control systems, traction control systems, anti lock up systems and tire under inflation detection systems etc. For example mine will tell you if one of the tires is underinflated (starting to go flat) by sensing the increased rolling resistance of that wheel and I understand that detection system is part of the brake system.
 
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My 2016 F150 needs new brakes. The brake shop says I'll probably need new rotors because they make them so thin nowadays, which sounds odd considering I still have a few mm of pad left.

They quote around $2500 for new pads and rotors.

Does anyone here change their own brake pads? The youtube vids make it look pretty easy, and pads are cheap.
Not sure where your at. But a buddy of mine is in lantzville and is a retired mechanic and does odd jobs at home . He’s good at what he does and is a lot cheaper than a shop.
 
What does that price include there is no way 2500$ for pads and rotors with labor, has to be more involved possible calipers and brake flush and other items.. sounds like a full 4 wheel brake job with calipers rotors and pads with labor.. and im in the industry work for shop in Kelowna lol
 
My brakes are an easy driveway repair, with minimal tools and knowledge, do one side at a time and you have the other as a reference. I would never get drums or rotors turned, just buy new, replace shoes, pads, spring kit, even wheel cylinders, and calipers. Now if you need to replace master cylinder, booster, and all lines that takes more time and knowledge. Going to the dealer=CRAZY and that's for anything. Aftermarket is full of cheaper and better products and all meet OEM quality, suggest an hour on phone, call around and get best in stock price. Of course I drive a SAS 04 Tacoma, deleted my ABS to add ARB's.

You have a 2016 so probably have wheel sensors, ABS sensors, and if 4X4 then some electronic crap in there to tell your computer what's going on, maybe even a designated ford tool to get more $$$$ and then there's pedal height adjustments and all the crap Rockfish mentioned along with computer stuff. I say call around or take to a knowledgeable guy who works on the side. Or pay up for driving newish vehicle.

HM
 
I've done my own when I had time and it was a summer job...not interested in wallowing on my back on the driveway in the wet winter months....so will pay someone for that. I have never paid that much when I had a shop do them. Rotors should cost from $100 to $150 a piece depending on quality (approx) pads should be around $60 for pads that do 2 wheels. If you are changing rotors you will want new wheel bearings to fit the new races....and a tub of grease to pack them...cotter pins to secure the spindle bolts and rear grease seals. You will need a can or two of brake cleaner and slide lube. You should be into parts for around $900 for all 4 wheels. This is if calipers are ok. This should show you what they are charging for labour...out to lunch on that.
 
Wow I think people are overthinking brake repairs. Most of the time it’s just pad replacement. If the rotors are worn, buy new ones because it’s pretty much the same price as turning the old ones and you won’t have any down time.

If the Calipers need replacing and you don’t know how to bleed them properly, then get it done by a professional.
 
If you are changing rotors you will want new wheel bearings to fit the new races....and a tub of grease to pack them...cotter pins to secure the spindle bolts and rear grease seals.


Don’t the rotors just fit over the wheel studs on all the vehicles I’ve done that’s the case including my f350 I think profisher your thinking of a boat trailer.

If you are in the lower mainland check out rock auto in the states the are really cheap for parts. Get a P.O. Box in point Roberts, I got better brake pads plus a serpentine belt for the price of pads up here that’s with exchange and shipping factored in, but in all cases shop around. It’s super easy and you tube is your friend
 
I’m always stunned to hear what people pay for brake jobs. I’m not a mechanic have always done my own brake jobs.
Safety is your first priority so a good jack and jack stands are a must. And I alway slide the remove wheel under the vehicle when jacked up for an extra measure of safety.
YouTube is your friend for reference and check out partsavatar.ca for the best prices on parts. Free shipping over $100 and a Canadian company so no duty or running across the border to grab parcels.
 
If all you are doing is changing the pads, then it will be fairly simple. You tube is your friend for this. One thing that is seldom mentioned however. Over time, in your case four years +/-, a varying amount of "crud" can build up in the lower portion of your calipers. This needs to be removed as much as possible before replacing the pads. Attach a piece of clear plastic hose (Cdn Tyre) to the bleeder screw (do the passenger side first). and run it into a jar. Open the bleeder and using a c"C" clamp or even a large screw driver force the piston (s) back into their bores allowing the fluid to exit through the plastic hose and into the jar. If the piston(s) are going into their bores but no fluid is coming out the bleeder, it is because the bleed hole is blocked. Stop compressing the piston (s) and remove the bleed screw and clean the hole out (it is very small). After forcing the piston(S) into their bores, close the bleed screw, and step on the brake pedal, until the piston has moved out and the pads are engaging the rotor again. Now take the top off the brake fluid reservoir and top it up with approved fresh brake fluid from a just opened container (probably DOT 3). Put the top back on. Repeat the above procedure until the fluid going into the jar is the colour of fresh brake fluid. Do the same to the driver's side, remembering to top up the fluid each time.

Why are you doing this instead of just forcing the fluid back up into the master cylinder? The old fluid is contaminated and may contain small particles of rust etc. This can get into places you don't want it to, including your ABS system, where it could wreak havoc. If it gets into your flexible hose above the area where the fitting is crimped the crud could impede the flow of brake fluid either to the pistons or more likely from them, resulting in the brakes not retracting after application, resulting in overheated brakes. Flushing the brake fluid before replacing the pads will help prevent this, although it does not eliminate it all together. Flushing the brake fluid and then replacing the calipers with new ones is the best way to ensure that their is no contaminates in your brake system.
 
Yep sorry this truck the rotors just slip over the wheel studs. The last brakes I did was my Astro van and they ride on the spindle with bearings.
 
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