Armstrong Pod /bracket

That looks great!!! I would love to see more pictures and would be very i terested in your sea triles and specs as i am about 2 months out from doing the exact same repower on the same boat 27 ft orca. What pod did you go with? Doni see some transom reinforcement? How did they plug the outdrive hole? Did u get a factory replacement floor piece for your engine cowling? Any and all info would be greatly appreciated, and i hope your kings open again soon.... the state of Alaska treats our kings as an afterthought grrrrr.
 
Gentlemen, I am tied up this evening and tomorrow morning but will get back later tomorrow with more info and pics. Roy, at least your government treats Chinooks as an afterthought, ours doesn't appear to treat them at all. They manage by reallocating from one group to another as the stocks go down, doing nothing to rebuild and enhance, and letting the rec fishery go down the drain.
 
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As of today,the installation of the two motors is pretty much complete. The fiberglass guy,who has been away on holiday for a month,is back next week,when attention will shift to completing the dance floor,
I can add a pic of where we currently are at. The outdrive hole was filled with a couple layers of marine plywood and epoxied in, and then sealed in with a couple layers of cloth and resin. Two reinforcement
knees were glassed in to brace the location of the main motor pod. The replacement cover for the old engine cowling hatch is similar material to the two side fish lockers. This work should start next week.
We will also be starting the installation of a new auto pilot system for both the main motor and kicker and a washdown pump and dressing pump are being installed in the port rear transom. The beat goes on. Won't be able to break down any costs until the work is pretty much complete. The per pound price of Chinook is definitely going to take a big hit...:confused:
 
You’ve got a good glass guy. Really good move if that stern bilge enclosure creates a water-proof buffer from the bilge section in the bow of the boat. Hard to tell if the glass extends over that starboard ledge that the cables are laying on.

My pre-owned Orca before I purchased it was parked on a steep driveway, bow facing downhill, for at least 6 months. All the rain funneled from the back deck, down into the stern bilge, made it’s way past the water tank and the gas tank, and settled into the bilge in the bow—-as in almost a meter of standing water when I took ownership of the boat. That water eventually made its into the foam compartments in the bow.

Don’t let anyone tell you that Skagit Orca foam will not take on water. It does and it will, and the new Orca manufacturing plant got so many complaints about that foam that when they do a new build today, they put in way less foam then they did in the older boats

As far as the dance floor finishing work, I see too many of those Orca and Osprey pod conversions that go for diamond plate. I think it looks crappy and would be slick to walk on. I’d go for a hinged glass floor, like the factory-built Orcas that are built for the express purpose of hanging an outboard. Will cost more but I’m thinking well worth the expense

You’ll have a smashing boat—-it’ll be a real head-turner. And now’s a good time to consider where all your fancy through-hull transducers are going to go!
 
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Hi Sharphooks, Good point re sealing off the old engine compartment from the forward area,will check that out. So far have not seen evidence of water in any foam but could be some hidden areas. I am putting a hinged fiberglass hatch cover over the engine compartment which will be a very close match to the original. Also adding a fiberglass gear tray, with a couple LED lights, below the rear rod holders which will also support my dressing trough. Regarding your earlier question about the pod design, I had a serious discussion with the outfit regarding this and they suggested that the 27 Orca didn't need the extra flotation and planing area of a pod that extended the bottom, and recommended the current design which they have used on a lot of boats. Apparently it has to start far enough above the bottom, and be angled up enough that there will be no drag while the boat is climbing onto plane. The other critical factor is the depth of the leg and prop which they have a formula for. Since they have done so many pods on different boats I decided to go with their advice. Won't be too long before we find out...
 
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Hi Sharphooks, Good point re sealing off the old engine compartment from the forward area,will check that out. So far have not seen evidence of water in any foam but could be some hidden areas. I am putting a hinged fiberglass hatch cover over the engine compartment which will be a very close match to the original. Also adding a fiberglass gear tray, with a couple LED lights, below the rear rod holders which will also support my dressing trough. Regarding your earlier question about the pod design, I had a serious discussion with the outfit regarding this and they suggested that the 27 Orca didn't need the extra flotation and planing area of a pod that extended the bottom, and recommended the current design which they have used on a lot of boats. Apparently it has to start far enough above the bottom, and be angled up enough that there will be no drag while the boat is climbing onto plane. The other critical factor is the depth of the leg and prop which they have a formula for. Since they have done so many pods on different boats I decided to go with their advice. Won't be too long before we find out...
Cant wait to see your performance numbers and photos. Your conversion looks top notch!!! Getting my quote worked up now for my conversion and my guy would love to see more of your build.
 
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