Boat Trailer Advise, Please...

Which boat trailer manufacturer do you like best?


  • Total voters
    41

EZZ70

Well-Known Member
As some of you know I am in the market for a tandem trailer for the 23' Hourston and not sure the good, bad and ugly,,,

I would like disc brakes with electric/hydraulic, I am thinking EZ Loader :confused:
 
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I would buy the one that you can get service/parts from locally at a good shop you have a reputation with. I have had 4 of those listed in your poll and didn't see too much difference in quality. Never had an aluminum trailer but they sure look nice. Have a buddy who trailers to Nootka regularly and I think he's happy with his tuff.
 
All I can say is I am happy with my EZ loader. 1997 and still has the original decals. No issues at all, but this is a simple single axle with no brakes.
 
too bad you couldn't pic more than 1 option above - strengths & weaknesses to each builder/design. If you had a "choice" - it really depends upon your needs - what kind and size of boat - where you launch (ocean, lake, river, etc.) - how far you travel/trailer - how much maintenance you want (brakes, weight restrictions, etc).
 
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too bad you couldn't pic more than 1 option above - strengths & weaknesses to each builder/design. If you had a "choice" - it really depends upon your needs - what kind and size of boat - where you launch (ocean, lake, river, etc.) - how far you travel/trailer - how much maintenance you want (brakes, weight restrictions, etc).

My Trailer Needs:
- salt and fresh water usage
- trailer distance through mountains 700km
- boat weight 6000-7000lbs
- electric/hydraulic brakes
 
EZ loader doesn’t wire their trailers for salt water use, or at least didn’t on mine. Corroded to **** in less than a year and had to completely rewire with heat shrink connectors.
 
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IMG_1156.jpg I have a Karavan Tandem Axle 8600# Bunk Trailer for a 23Ft Hourston. Only bought it because it was the only used one I could find at the time. It was in great shape and a great price. It's been a great trailer for the 10 years I've had it. Replaced the lights and built a 30 gallon washdown for the brakes, kicker, and boat and other than that, just regularly maintained. Has a good grease system for the bearing as there is a grease nipple right in the center of the axle, so no bearing buddy's to fall off. I would buy another one.
 
One of the things I learned over the years - is that saltwater is far less forgiving then freshwater wrt brakes, bearings - and the like. A couple small squirts in the buddy-bearings immediately after use - and a wash-down w fw - whenever possible helps.

I think the components are more critical than the manufacturer.
 
King trailers are nice because you can change the hub and spindle with just a large nut and cotter pin. Most trailers the spindle is part of the axle and if you waste a spindle it can mean a whole axle replacement.

http://www.kingtrailers.com/

A buddy has one and he just had a full spare spindle, hub, bearings, and tire mounted on his trailer.

Could do a full charge out in less time than to swap a tire.
 
None of them are that great, but i would never buy another EZ loader. Bought it used (its a 2009) and owned it for 4 years now and have changed almost every light on it, some twice, the brakes 3 times, all tires been replaced, cracks in the axle brackets 4 times that needed rewelded (takes months to get replacement parts from EZ loader), the surge controller once, the boat strap 3 times, the front rollers once and the jack twice. Some of those things are not made by EZ loader but i still put the majority of the blame on them for picking crappy parts and materials. I'm planning on offloading and switching to a Tuff trailer when i can afford it. At least they use stainless fasteners and such, though they will all fail eventually. I will check out those king trailers though, they look interesting.
For sure my next one will be disc, with hydraulic over electric (i'm done with surge, such a crap system and i am tired of the unappealing clunk every time i leave a red light or stop sign).

Still cheaper than a slip though.
 
Maintenance is key SV - you are correct. Rinsing off SW ASAP, greasing bearings, etc. Crappy components can exasperate that need for maintenance as you mentioned, bpsuls. As I posted above: I think the components are more critical than the manufacturer. Most experienced marine manufacturers use stainless due to the expected rust/corrosion issue. If you only use the trailer for fw launching - you can get away easier w sub-prime components. I keep a set of replacement bearings on hand - and I like saanauk's suggestion above. Make's a lot of sense. Electrical is particularly at risk of corrosion. Sometimes a can of liquid PVC tape can help if you catch it early enough. Straps and lights and tires have a lifespan and need to be replaced ev once in a while.

One of the habits I developed was to load and travel for ~20m or so - long enough to bounce the boat/trailer around and to heat-up bearings if they were soon to replace - and find a pull-out and stop and check straps, bearings, etc. Put your hand on the bearings. They should be slightly warm - but not hot. Keep a grease gun handy and give a couple small squirts after the boat is either launched or retrieved - esp. in sw - to drive the sw out of the bearing. Keep a couple spare trailer lightbulbs in your glove compartment.
 
Agree with the points re. regular maintenance. If your trailer doesn't have SS components then you can replace them with SS over time. I gave up on submersible lights a long time ago. They are a big pain in the butt. So I mounted my lights on a 8 foot 2x4 and hang them off the back of my boat when towing. I take them off the boat/trailer when launching and they never touch saltwater. Since then never had a bulb to replace or light(s) not working. Don't bother with lights on the trailer itself - not that needed. To repeatedly place electrical components and connections in saltwater is a problem just waiting to happen.
 
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Put your hand on the bearings. They should be slightly warm - but not hot. Keep a grease gun handy and give a couple small squirts after the boat is either launched or retrieved - esp. in sw - to drive the sw out of the bearing. Keep a couple spare trailer lightbulbs in your glove compartment.

We use one of those temperature guns, great way to check the temperature of the brakes and bearings. If one side is hotter than the other side, indicates there may be a problem or an adjustment is needed.
I got my temperature gun when it was on sale at CT, I think it was about $30- 40.

We have the temperature gun in the vehicle door pocket, easy to grab and check temps every time we stop
 
King trailers are nice because you can change the hub and spindle with just a large nut and cotter pin. Most trailers the spindle is part of the axle and if you waste a spindle it can mean a whole axle replacement.

http://www.kingtrailers.com/

A buddy has one and he just had a full spare spindle, hub, bearings, and tire mounted on his trailer.

Could do a full charge out in less time than to swap a tire.


This sounds good in theory but you would have to probably remove cotter and jesus nut once a year and lube everything up with a good anti- corrosion grease to expect it to come apart easily roadside. I say this after going through the process of doing the spindles and bearings on a 9 year old king trailer with this set up. Everything was fused together in one big rusted mess. All six spindles required the use of a plasma cutter to be removed. Now granted I would say the maintenance may have been a bit lax before I took ownership, but still something to consider. As always, ymmv. In no way am I disparaging king trailers as I believe it is as good or better than most with proper maintenance. I just think the quick change spindle thing is a bit optimistic unless there are extra maintenance steps taken to help facilitate their removal roadside.
 
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I have a Road King aluminum I beam trailer and really like the way it tows. Bought it used for a song and re did all brakes...good so far. Packing a 24’ Rinker @ 6000#
 
As some of you know I am in the market for a tandem trailer for the 23' Hourston and not sure the good, bad and ugly,,,

I would like disc brakes with electric/hydraulic, I am thinking EZ Loader :confused:
My 23' Hourston has been on a trailer for 16 years - Highliner dual axle with electric drum brakes switched to electric/hydraulic disc at time of last brake rebuild. I've had no issues getting parts from Highliner when needed. Agree with other comments on maintenance.
 
My 23' Hourston has been on a trailer for 16 years - Highliner dual axle with electric drum brakes switched to electric/hydraulic disc at time of last brake rebuild. I've had no issues getting parts from Highliner when needed. Agree with other comments on maintenance.

Thank you for that info...
 
i purchased a new TSA7000t tuff trailer in july 2018 for my grady white gulftream and it is the best trailer i have ever owned. (this is the 4th trailer i have owned)

the braking system is great, zero maint hubs(for 5 years apparently) torsion bar suspension and high quality lights,brakes,tires and tongue jack.

hubs have a 10 year warranty and the lights and some other parts are warrantied for life!

i just had my tail light get nailed in the parking lot and they are sending me a replacement for free ( i emailed tuff trailer to get a replacement light and the guy told me that they would just send me one since it was under warranty, even though it was not a manufacturers defect. now thats good customer service)

Tuff trailers are a bit more money compared to others, but i think with all the quality components and fit and finish it is worth the extra money.
 
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