Dummy flashers & tuna cord

donnie d

Well-Known Member
Hey all,

This could be a bit of a silly question, but I’m new to the tuna cord set up on the DRs. I mainly fish lakes until later in the summer and I’ve been running dummy lake troll flash off the ball and running a clip just above off the snubber snap. It has worked ok as there’s not a ton of movement on that type of flash. running a dummy flasher in the chuck, I obviously need to be much higher to allow the flasher to roll. Question is: Will my snap just stay put on the tuna cord or will it slide up? What do some of you guys do for this?
 
Will my snap just stay put on the tuna cord or will it slide up?

What do you mean by snap?

One of these?

Scotty+Trolling+Snaps+large+%231155.jpg


Or one of these-because this one will slide but the one shown above grabs the cord tight

rs.php
 
I clip my dummy flasher right above the ball. Let out 5' of tuna cord, then my release clip. Lure is about 5-8' behind the clip. Lots of room for the dummy flasher to roll.
 
Yes ,it will stay put.That is why we use gangion as well as for an automatic stop,usually 5-8 ft.long depending on your downrigger length.
 
Hey all,

This could be a bit of a silly question, but I’m new to the tuna cord set up on the DRs. I mainly fish lakes until later in the summer and I’ve been running dummy lake troll flash off the ball and running a clip just above off the snubber snap. It has worked ok as there’s not a ton of movement on that type of flash. running a dummy flasher in the chuck, I obviously need to be much higher to allow the flasher to roll. Question is: Will my snap just stay put on the tuna cord or will it slide up? What do some of you guys do for this?

Why not just run the dummy flashers like you have in freshwater? I'll sometimes clip onto the downrigger ball clip or the ball itself.

Then I'll put the release clip just below the swivel on the tuna cord and triple up on the stopper beads for redundancy. Allows for a good enough spread to decrease liklihood of a tangle.
 
I will try something like that. All my leads have the double eyes, so I’ll run the flasher right off the ball then clip in on the tuna cord about 6 feet up from the ball. Putting a couple extra beads on the braid is not a bad idea.

Appreciate the ideas. I’m really hoping to play some fish this summer without the flasher!

Why not just run the dummy flashers like you have in freshwater? I'll sometimes clip onto the downrigger ball clip or the ball itself.

Then I'll put the release clip just below the swivel on the tuna cord and triple up on the stopper beads for redundancy. Allows for a good enough spread to decrease liklihood of a tangle.
 
PLine copolymer right off the ball attached to the dummy. Mainline above that on the snubber or gangion. Use crimps and swivels on the dummy.

Does ganglion/tuna cord work better than just plain old coploly? I know the ones you buy come with mono/co poly.
 
I've always done what "tightlines"said with gangion and Albright knot tied to braid,never needed swivels etc.to trip the auto stop. I think parachute cord has a smoother finish than gangion so clips might slide on it.
 
PLine copolymer right off the ball attached to the dummy. Mainline above that on the snubber or gangion. Use crimps and swivels on the dummy.

Does ganglion/tuna cord work better than just plain old coploly? I know the ones you buy come with mono/co poly.

Last week tried a setup with 400lb mono (which is supposed to act as a snubber itself).

Wasn’t impressed with the frequency the Scotty clips popped off the slick mono. Would require some mods or a different line clip.
 
Last week tried a setup with 400lb mono (which is supposed to act as a snubber itself).

Wasn’t impressed with the frequency the Scotty clips popped off the slick mono. Would require some mods or a different line clip.
Your supposed to place your clip below the metal crimp that is located on the mono just above where the cannon ball attachment is. The metal crimp acts to stop the scotty clip from sliding up.
 
Your supposed to place your clip below the metal crimp that is located on the mono just above where the cannon ball attachment is. The metal crimp acts to stop the scotty clip from sliding up.
Ya that’s where it was clipped. The problem wasn’t slippage per se, if I let the ball down too fast with the dark of the flasher it would pop the clip off the mono. It did it 3x (lost one release). A slower controlled release fixed it but it was a bit annoying. I may just put a couple wraps of 2” gorilla tape below that crimp for extra insurance.
 
Your supposed to place your clip below the metal crimp that is located on the mono just above where the cannon ball attachment is. The metal crimp acts to stop the scotty clip from sliding up.

Like Waterwolf said, the issue was with the lack of resistance on the mono, the clip wouldn’t hold and too easily would pop off. Less from sliding up (parallel) and more from the lateral (perpendicular) force.
 
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